Hot Rods Rich's Coupe - a ten year odyssey

you can do anything you want bud!

 

Awesome Coupe, great job with it !

Hot Rod Coupes RULE !

 

10 years seems like ten minutes sometimes...nice build...

 

Wow - wow -wow
Awesome work and killer execution - you Sir are a Craftsman


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Awesome craftsmanship. Nice to see someone taking their time to do it right in a get it done yesterday throw away society.

 

Thank's for thhe feed back guy's!
I picked up this seat for $40 at the local junk yard, just the typical
Plymouth Voager middle seat. It folds flat, and has arm rest on passenger
side. I made an adapter to move the arm rest to where the seat belts pass
thru in the center of the seat. It's removable. (Don't worry I traditonaly
use an arm rest)
I than used Wescots blue print to set the seat at standard height, and angle.
That is basicaly a 2" tip back to front.

 

Here's the frame I made which is overly compplicated. I can't help picking at things!
I used a seat tract from Summit thaat is for bucket seat I just spread it out for my bench,
works great. That part# is SumG1153 $27.95

 

Fiinished arm rest, I know it's ugly, but I'll take of that later.

 

I barely have room for me and a passenger in my roadster let alone an arm rest! You must be an optimist using one in a coupe! Or a skinny little dude!

 

Proably sick of seat pics, but I found some more.

 

That's 1/8" heliarc wire connecting the 2 tracks together.
WhaI would like it to look like in the bottomm pic.

 

I ended up removing tilt , and bulky latches on the end of seats which gained me several inches.
The A seat tapers to the back to fit body shape. I removed the Rear shelf to gain leg room, and could not get the seat
back far enough. So I stole an idea from our Canadian bros. and used his method to gain room. Maybe
he will pipe up.

 

How'd everything suddenly turn black?

 

Gordon:
Spray can dye! Just had to see it look better, and
sit in the car making engine noises ! I may be old,
but I haven’t grown up! Rich

 

Thanks for all the build pics. That's going to be one bad ass model a.

 

Thank's guy's:
Here's a pic of the original firewall that came with the car. I'm going to cross brace the inside of the
cowl, than remove the uncut xtra firewall. I could have reversed the good firewall, but it still
would not give me the clearance I need.
2nd pic shows cutting the flange off, and welding 1/4" 20 nuts on to match the cowl.

 

Here it's mounted with 1/4 " 20 nuts welded in position. I'm keeping the original
frame hold down feet in stock position, I'll tie into those later.

 

I'm using 16 gauge marked in 1" increments (that's the plan any way) to help me make
mirror images for the two sides. I have to shrink one side. and stretch the other to
curve a piece.
The Eastwood shrinker stretchers are mounted in my home made stands.

 

Here I have installed the curved pieces. This second pic shows where I had to
trim them to fit the front edge.

 

I'm scribing apiece of 16 gauge after tacking all the set back pieces in.
2nd pic I'm trying to decide on a pattern some what like the original
firewall. I have to leave room for master cylinder, and vin plate.

 

All ready to tack in ! Well maybe not, pics above are 16 gauge cold rolled, and
new press piece is hot rolled. First effort I wasn't happy with so I tried some
hot rolled to see what my problem was. It turned out so good I'm using it.
You may wonder why I just don't bead roll the pattern. You can't get as deep
a pattern with the bead roller with out distorting the panel .

 

I lost some pics, I'll come back, and show the steps I took to do that.

 

The work looks real nice, what's the setback of the firewall?

 

You’re really pushing my memory 30tudor! It’s
Been a few years since I did that. I’m not where I
can measure it right now. I think 5 1/2” from leading edge of fire wall. Stock Model A Sticks out from
leading edge. I know I wish it was another 1”,
as distributor is close fit! I’ll get that info .
Rich

 

I'm going to post a little demo on how I press form shapes. I had done this a couple
years ago, but #%*:{(%! photo bucket will x them out pretty soon.
I'm just an amateur, and taught myself I'm sure there are better ways.
The firewall was the biggest I have done. but principle is the same. This is 16 gauge
here. I give the pieces a gap one and half times the size of the male pattern. The
pattern .057 gap is .085 does not have to be exact, but cut tooo closse trying for
better definition will shear the piece.

 

I use drill bits to set the gap around the two pieces in above picture.

The pieces are all lined up with the 2 drill bits. The next pic has the female pattern
on bottom with the blank on top of that, than the male pattern taped to the
top. all aligned with the 2 drill bits.

 

Here it's ready to press in my 50 ton press. Now II spray everything with WD40.

 

I.walk the press over the pattern till it is locked in, than I press with full tonage
to finish. I' sure you could use a 10 to 20 ton press.
The finished piece. I have sheared an edge on some pieces, and heli arced it
with no problems.

 

Rich, show your valve covers.

 

Excellent Save And Craftsmanship...Appreciated...