Projects NOT THE TYPICAL '30 ROADSTER BUILD

Today, I spent sometime locating the transmission mount and bolting it down. It should help me up front with final location of the motor mounts.


Finding the center was the most time consuming part of it. Ran a string from the center of the rear end to the front to ensure it was centered in the frame.


Me and my cardboard templates It really helps me visualize what I am doing


And there she is. Fully supported on the frame.


Wonder if I can cut this tip off? Anyone knows what the purpose of it is?
It is really the only thing sticking below the frame.


Looking for a swan shifter to weld to the original T5 shifter. If anyone has one, let me know...
Next on the list is going to the junk yard and look for a T5 shifter and and a driveshaft.
The final plan is to have a custom made driveshaft but need one in the meantime to cut down and use for mock up.

 

Yes you can cut the fin on the bottom of a t5 off, I did on mine as well.

Sent from my SM-A102U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Thank you. Great to know.

 

Today was one of those days where the little time I spent went a long way.

I started by fully mounting the block to the spot welded motor mounts and it worked out great.

Sitting on its own weight. Leveled and squared.
With the transmission mounted yesterday, the motor and transmission are now mocked up fully in place.


Vega box is tight but still plenty room around it.


I even have what I think to be plenty of room for my headers. Got to get them out of storage to make sure.


Went to the junk yard and pulled an aluminum driveshaft and S10 shifter. Best part of it, the parts where already removed on the side of the truck and waiting for me.

Felt so good to be back at the junk yard with my dad today, brought back some good memories...
Back in the days, many years ago, my dad and I used to go almost every weekend looking for VW parts, and was one of those things we used to do together...Back then, I wasn't too eager to be there but today, as he is getting older and reaching up in years, I found myself wishing to hold on to the day and for time to stand still....

I will be cutting down the driveshaft later on. I figured a lightweight driveshaft would be a good thing.


...Started work on the shifter


Cut opposite halves on both shifters to have more meat to weld on


Too lazy to get the bottom seat from the rafters, so used a couple of sticks to mock up seat height
Clamped both halves together once that I found rthe ight angle and clearance when shifting.


Not the prettiest welds but enough material to grind down smooth and blend.
Made 2 holes on each end of the halves to pin it and ensure both halves won't come apart, even if welds brake.


Almost done. Just need to grind, smooth out and blend them.

 

Shifter is done for now. Happy with look and height of it.
Have a nice shifter with a token insert tin it hat I plan to use here.

 

Nice Work!!!!!!!!!

 

Happy New Year!

The roadster was put on hold the last month or so of year as work got on the way.
I also decided to work on building a decent workbench table that took much longer than I expected...and still is not finished I am still missing the top. You can still see my old top on it.
Most ideas came from google and YouTube but so far very happy with them.
The workbench I had before was made from a an old front door and the folding legs had come from from a broken party table that I found on the side of the road...It was terrible for welding, caught on fire a couple times, and even worst if I wanted to fabricate something.
This new table will have finish dimensions of 72"x 32". I decided to go with a 2x2 frame and 6-1/2" casters to move it around easily. The plan is to add a 3/8" or 1/2" metal top to it.

I had an old kitchen rev-a-shelf bracket meant for a blender which I re-purpose to hold my bench grinder.
I added a space for my grinders on the side and clamps, plenty of electrical outlets so I don't have to be dragging extension cords and even a side extension that expands another 24". Metal mesh makes the bottom shelf and since my floor is not the most level floor, the bolts on each corner now help bring it to level.
I left a side open so I can pull up a chair and weld sitting down.

I am still planning to ad a bracket my 6" vice that is in the other side of the garage. Plan is t be to remove it when not in use and keep the top completely cleared.
I am still debating the thickness of the top...Got a smoking deal on a sheet of 1/4" but I think is too thin and I am afraid it can warp. Also a good deal on a 1/2" sheet but too damn heavy to move and too thick to cut to size....I am leaning towards 3/8'. More expensive than 1/4" or 1/2" but easier to move around and cut.

So far I am happy with and not a bad deal for $200 worth of materials, not including the top

 

As for 2019...Since the last update of hours and expenses....

In 2019 I worked a total of 154 hours in the roadster. I now have a total 306 hrs in the project.

In materials, epoxy primer, glazing putty, metal, etc, I am still in for a total of $557.94. Little has changed here, since I haven't bought any other materials.
Parts, including frame, body and all the new parts I have bought and not yet installed, $18,582.57
This year I invested on the headers and radiator which were big ticket items.

So here is how I look at this, I am quoting labor @ a rate of $50/hr, just so I can have a gauge

306 hrs x $50= $15,300
All Parts = $18,582.57
Misc Material s= $557.94

All in, $34,440.51

Since I don't pay for labor, $19,140.51 invested, so far.

I am shooting for having a running/driving chassis by the end of this year.

 

Thanks for that recap!

 

Plan your work, work your plan, you are on it bro. Love the goal and best wishes for getting there.

 

Man, you'll regret keeping records of the hours and pennies, when you're done and added up, you'll be shocked. I did that on my first build, and never did it again. Some things you are better off not knowing. Good job so far, keep at it.

 

I was always scared she'd sell it for what I said I paid for it!

 

Thank you!

 

I am regretting it already but making the best out of it.
I've always been curious to know not only what it takes to build one but how much it takes to build a dream....this dream of mine is getting very pricey Good thing is that I am having a blast doing it

 

IMO...
maybe you ought delete those lists as their in your face honesty may discourage a "thinking about it" rodder… scares me !

 

Decided to start finishing the last of the floors so I can install them on the body so hopefully I can remove the body from the frame as one piece, avoid as much flexing of it as possible, put it on a dolly and store it away to leave the frame by itself..
With the frame by itself, I will start working on the brakes mechanics and hopefully get it running in the near future.

I added the handbrake using the Limeworks T5 brake. I am using a Lokar trans brake.
I really was hoping to use a pistol grip style hand brake since I hope how those look but couldn't find one that fir the body right. I settled for the Lokar


Next,I built a frame of 3/4" square tube with a piano hinge the middle. My goal is to be able to remove both pieces at once. I used the same bolt locations as the wood panels have. I will sheet it later.
...I am missing 2 "D"-nuts....where can you get those?


Here comes the cardboard again I want the bead rolls to match the rest of the floors I made but I will get to those later on, once I have the brake & cutch master cylinders to make the access panels for it...
I ended up buying the set of master cylinders from Gary at Cornhusker....Great guy and willing to help.



As for the trans tunnel I went back and forth trying to decide the best way to get it done. I want to use either the Lokar shift gear and brake boots or the original Model A rubber boots, so laying out the distance between both was important. I ended up not using the spacer the hand brake came with to gain more room in between. I made my own spacers

Cardboard templates again to help lay it out.


Last time I built a trans tunnel for my '36 truck, I used the english wheel. I think it was right for that build, especially cause I had never used an english wheel before, but not for this Roadster


I want something more low profile, rounded edges, almost flat on top with rounded sides and something that fits tight to the transmission.

I opted to use a 2" exhaust pipe that I cut in 4's to have 4 quarter rounds. This should make the sides and the round piece in the back.



The round piece in the back will be the most difficult to make, for me at least...so I am starting with that, sink or swim, let's see if I can make it happen.
Cut pie cuts in it and ran it through the english wheel....Not bad, thus far, but a long way to go,

 

Starting to take some shape...still a long way to go

 

I see you put the seat springs in place, are you using the originals or going a different direction? Also, is that the stock riser or Brookville?

 

Fantastic job so far on your build!


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The body is an original Ford body and the riser is stock.
I am 5'-8" on a good day, so I fit just right with the original seat springs in the stock location.
I plan on chopping the windshield and top 2"-3" and leaning back the windshield about 15 degrees....so far, I think I still fit just about right without lowering anything.

 

Looking good!

Rich

 

Looking good man

 

Good progress!

 

Thank you all!

 

Had some time to spend on the roadster this weekend, so I continued working on the trans tunnel.

Finished both the shifter and handbrake pods. Same method of cutting a tube in 4s, slicing it every 1/2" to make the round turn, weld and sand it.
Added the lid for both and started to figure out a way to join them at the right location.
...Still a lot of work to do but starting to see the idea come together....Still need to cut it to the right length too.

The white cardboard rings should be the same dimensions as the Lokar universal boots's chrome rings. Plan is to paint and pinstripe it the tunnel to the same color as the body, and let the carpet come up to it...at least for now, that is the idea.

 

You have some neat ideas and execution!

I was thinking about running my high beam switch the same way. Looks great!

 

Trying to squeeze minutes out of the day to work on my roadster.
I was able to do some cutting and trimming and very pleased with the outcome so far.
First dry fit





Time to start trimming it to the right length and start adding the flange.
Another 3/8" hair cut and will be right where I want it.

 

Neat job. A bit more thought than the all straight edges approach most people (myself included) make.

 

Another good day...got to finish the trans tunnel, other than some final finishing, the shape and size is all there.




I started installing the brake and clutch master cylinders.
I got these from Cornhusker. pretty happy with the way they installed and the way they look





Got them mocked up and in place.


Another cardboard template for the floor and access panel


Transferred to my final template and I should be ready to start cutting it out of metal and start bead rolling. it

 

Now that's nice!