Hot Rods Rich's Coupe - a ten year odyssey

Nice lead work! I haven't done any in a while either and wondered if it would come back easily or not. Heard a guy say if you wanted to learn to lay lead do it in sandals! You'll learn in a hurry how to keep it on the car!

 

I finished both sides, and had repaired all cracks around the top. I added lead to
the corners, and ground back the T molding for future clearance for roof tracks
to mount the roof covering.

 

Nice work.
Does anyone make the T moulding?
r


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Raven: I don’t know of any one making that
Molding.
Sorry if I haven’t said thanks for the kudo’s guy’s, I don’t see them when I’m doing multiple posts.
They are appreciated!
Rich

 

I didn't want a filled top, but neededa base for the fabric top. Here I'm making
pattern for a piece of 1/4" oak paneling. The cut piece won't lay flat, but I'll fix that.

 

I soaked it in water, and let it dry in place. The finished piece after stain, and polyurathane.

 

I tapered the leading edge for smooth transition of fabric top. Also the sides, and
a good pic of my future headliner.

 

Nice work man, keep posting pics

 

Thanks AAron!
Here's one more pic of the interior wood. The back window rolls down
which takes different wood than a fixed window. I have removed the back
shelf for more leg room where the window crank mounts. I'll deal with it later.

 

Started cutting all the window frames, very happy with the results. Some times
the most tedious jobs turn out the best. these will require no filler.

 

Started replacing the wheel wells, and none of the reveal lines matched up, so
I replaced more than I had planned on. I wrapped the bottom around the lower
sub frame to match the original.

The next pic shows the lower quarter panel (in primer) on my welding table. The
reveal line did not match up there either. After beating the snot out of it I won
out in the end! I should have made my own to start with which is what I did later in the build.

 

Started fabbing new floor panels out of 16 gauge CR with 3/4" square tubing around the
perimeter, and cross braces (not shown here ) which the seat will mount to. (hopfully)
It maybe over kill, but that's what I do!

 

The under seat panel is a great place for a dropped floor to carry things

 

No such thing as over kill! If somes good, a whole lot even better, then too much is just right!

 

Manyolcars:
I wish that was the case, but engine set back,
ladder bar mounts will not let me do that.
After having the seat redone 1 had to lower it
2” to see better! Oh well.

Gordon C : I like your attitude, wait till you see
Some other things I have planned.lol

 

Great job so far! Your detail is above most and you have the skills to pull it off.
I'm looking forward to more!

 

This starts the 3 point seat belt install. I'm using 1 1/2" 3/16" wall square tube.
The 3/4" steel bars sitting on the tubing get welded inside the tubing. I wanted
plenty of thread purchase for the upper attachment points. The long 1/4"
flat bar will be plug, and stitch welded on top of the sub frame from door
post to rear of car.

 

Here most of the pieces have been welded in. the body bolts do pass thru the
reinforced sub frame. In the event of an accident that should seperate the body from the
frame the belt attachment points stay with the car.

 

Here's the finished view, the 1 1/2" tube does not touch the cab. These belts are from
Julianos they are GM style belts.

 

Very nice work. It's also nice to see how you are integrating three-point seatbelts into the car.

 

Great work. Should be killer ride.

 

Nice, I was thinking of similar idea for shoulder belts for my A coupe.


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Thanks a bunch for the kind words, I try to think ahead but we always miss something!

I very happy with the 3 point belts , I need to shorten
The 2 small belts in the center. This will pull the
Top belt higher across my chest making it safer.
Rich

 

Time to tackle the rear panel below the trunk lid. I shaped it to match cuvature of
trunk lid. I tacked the rear support piece to hold the shape, and sand blasted the rear
center brace , and welded it to the back of the panel.
The rear area in the bottom pic was in poor shape. I replaced most of it
with new metal. you can see where I cut the long side supports to jack the
opening to fit the trunk lid. I extended the side rain gutters to drain under car.

 

This was the original curved panel for the rumble seat. I cut it almost in half, formed a flange on it, and
welded 1/4" 20 nuts on the back side.
2nd pic shows new panel attached forming a box which will hide tailight buckets. this area will be open on bottom above gas tank.

 

I didn't like the corners on the trunk lid. I welded some 19 gauge on it to be able to shape it.
I than took care of the top corners. Of course I had to pull the lower trunk piece, and weld
all those up as well!

 

I meant to add in that last panel that I reshaped the inner trunk lid after centering the trunk handle,
and fabbed my own latch assembly for the trunk handle.

 

rich, sure is great that your taking the time for the fellow hambers to see how you did it! if i had half your talent, i would attempt to build my own space shuttle! keep up the good info! we know your quality of work.

 

Always good to hear from the best drag race historian I know! I’m going to Put some pics up with that little dragster you put together for fun. It’a
part of that 10 year stretch just like Butch’s old
Dodge. I hope that ‘ s okay with you.
Rich

 

Nice work