Lol, not me. but the block is the original 325 that came with the car. At some point in it's life someone pulled the poly heads and dropped in hemi heads.
Now that I've seen your photos in post #45, I think the simplest solution is to cut the ends of the dropdown goosenecks at an angle, 1/4" at the bottom and 0 at the top. This will change the aspect ratio of the oval by less than a 1/8" and should still seal to the cork gaskets. The extra gap will be hidden under the bottom, out of sight. You probably will also have to egg shape the hole for the threaded rods. Of course, this suggestion only works if the filter pods were rubbing at the outer ends of the pods and not so much at the inner ends. You will get maybe a 1/8" more clearance there but that's about it. The ends will drop at least a 1/2". What I like best about the Holley filter is that it shows off the engine and hides less of the good stuff that a 14" filter would.
I think the problem is i'll need more then an 1/8 but I have to check. I'm also wondering if I can combine the holley plenum with aftermarket KN pods, maybe that would work
This may not be the optimum solution but the only solution I had. The car already has a hood scoop. This setup uses only the base of a Mr Gasket I believe 8” inch filter. Underneath the 1/8 inch thick perforated (round holes)top is a 1/16 inch thick screen to keep the filter foam from being sucked into the carb. The filter media is foam designed for air filters. It comes in several different densities and can be found on eBay or several high performance/racing online sources. The foam is sandwiched between the screen and perforated top plate. The rubber around the top plate is U shaped edging I had l from Graingers that I had used for a different project. I was concerned the filter might be too close the carb Venturi but my butt dyno doesn’t notice a difference with or without the filter. Also should have mention that I removed the choke horn because of clearance.
It looks like the stock one has a large chamber built on. I've seen that a lot in air filters of that era. I think its sort of a silencing chamber or something (the opposite of a resonance chamber???) You could cut that down and adapt some kind of smaller filter to the end of the neck that goes to the carb. It is a bit of shame to cover up a hemi. On the other hand, most of the time you'll be driving the car and not looking at the engine. If I were to see your car at a car show I'd rather see it with the hood closed to better appreciate the lines of the car. Bobby
This offy “turbo hat” plus some pipe/hose would yield a cold air intake where you could mount a late model style flat filter on the radiator core or similar area where you can’t see it. Would clear everything, looks clean, at worse looks like an elephant and lets you hav as big of filter/intake area as you’d like
Thanks Bobby, I was thinking about doing something like this. if I take the stock air cleaner and cut it in half at that seem I could weld the air cleaner lid mounting assembly to it. Just an idea but it would shrink that canned ham thing and reduce a lot of the weight. I could also paint it blue to match the block.
So I tried to mock up anew one by taking the original air cleaner and removing the large center section. It looks similar to a stock Plymouth unit of the same year. The problem is it's hitting the hood to the point that I can't close it. I need to adjust the angle.
Too much trial caused a lot of error lol The stock air cleaner is toast at this point but I got a few ideas brewing. Right now I got some time off coming up and I plan to head over to the local speed shop and see what I can cobble together. As bad as it sounds I do have a plan of attack, first, get a flat base with the correct throat size. Then get a flat top and a 2" filter. That should do it. But I'm still looking into another idea such as a Chevy truck air cleaner, the kind that looks like a tear drop when you look straight down on it. That should work and I do like the look. Only down side, every one is for a small throat size, 2 5/8". But I still got my eyes out and I'll get something together. With all this downtime I was able to put in a new stereo, so that's a win for me, not I have AM AND FM! Nice!
Awesome. That looks great! I've also seen parts from the local pet store used on hot rods (stainless steel dog dishes...lol) Yup, it doesn't always go smooth the first time out of the gate. Right now with my rear suspension I'm on Plan G (I think...I kind of lost count) Is there any way you could cut out the 2 5/8" base and add the proper size base in its place? I'm glad you're making progress and having tunes is very important. Thanks for the update
I was thinking that but I don't think the overall size is wide enough to cover the 4 7/32" hole. If I can find a cheap one to play with then I can see what challenges I might have.
The bases are from Charlie Price Vintage Speed and were the most expensive parts. The covers would have touched so the hold downs each have about a 3/8" offset. (1/4" all thread with a nut holding it place) You can see that if you really look close The tops are aluminum which I had to sand first them polish with a pad on my drill press. The hose going around to the front of the rear carb takes care of vapor. The adapter has enough meat to drill and fit a plastic 90* from Pep Boys. The engine does not have a PCV system the original draft tube and filter are still on the left front side of the Y-block. I've also made one from a fake Moon Disc using a 1961 Corvette dual quad bottom I bought off E-Bay for $10.00. Cake covers make the best looking 4-barrel tops. Most are stainless with a single hole in the middle for the wing nut.
A lot of the modern cars & trucks have very low caps that cover the throttle body and kick to one side. I've seen a few that split to both sides, then they connect with hoses or aluminum tubes to the side(s) with the K & N style filters. My son has one on his modern Hemi in his 57 Dodge wagon, but I don't have a picture since my computer crashed a year or so ago. Another thought on the Holley one you have. What about cutting the end off the housing on each side right after it turns down, then add a hose or aluminum tube between both cuts on each side. It looks like you have a lot of downward movement if the filter pod were to move farther away from the main housing making it extended down and out. Gene
I was thinking about that too, but at that point I'm basically making the Spectre set up, which isn't a bad thing either. Problem is the Spectre set up doesn't "fit" the look of the car in my opinion.
Well, for now you can get something "functional" so that you can keep driving and enjoying your ride while you continue to search for a different option that would better fit the "look" you have going. Bobby
True, and that's the end result once I get over to the local shop. If I can't find something that works, I'll go the cold air route. The only problem with the cold air set up is the overall size. I'd need to modify it as with the stock configuration from Spectre the air cleaners are going to stick out past the block and from my measurements hit the alternator. So I may have to mix and match parts
So I just did something that looked awesome but way too big. I took the original air cleaner cover, just the football shaped end cap and put it on the carb. It looked really good, but I'd need to cut a hole in the hood to make it work. I know the Plymouth version is shorter, I just need to find one and get some dimesions
I've got the opposite problem. My Advanced Design, Chevy truck has so much room between the carb and the hood I could use the Statue Of Liberty as a wing nut. I'm going to take advantage of the space to come up with something unique for the air cleaner.
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