Hey I'd there anyone out there that can give me info on early V8 flatheads, I found one that's interesting, but I'm questioning it because of the factory aluminum heads and a few other things I noticed, any help is appreciated. Thanks
You came to the right place,,,there is an abundance of knowledge here. I am new to Flatheads,,,so I will be watching this as well. Tommy
How about a lot of pictures? Cell phone quality is fine. Just a few random thoughts. Identification of the early flatheads is best approached in terms of the block. There is an unbelievable amount of interchangeability for the accessories over the years. Count the number of head studs. 1) If there are 17 studs it is a V8 60 used in vehicles between 1937 and 1940. This engine was also used in the French built Simca in the sixties but I don’t know what occurred between these two periods. Look for casting numbers and stamped steel water jackets in the side of the block. Post what you find and someone can probably further identify the engine. 2) If there are 21 studs the block was built 1932 to 1938. The transition to 24 studs was late in 1938. Check the water petcocks on the front of the block next to where the lower hose from the radiator enters either an inlet fitting (1936 and earlier) or the water pump (1937 and later). It the petcocks point straight down it is a 1932 block. If the block is not a 1932 next look for a vent from the crankcase area out through the front corner of the oil pan. If there is no vent the block is 1933-34. If there is a vent it is 1935 or later. As a matter of interest, the 1936 engines were the first to use insert bearings. Both insert and babbit bearings were used throughout 1936. The insert bearing engines can be identified by LB cast at the top of the left front face of the block or by the letters LB stamped into the surface where the intake manifold attaches. Some engines were not stamped and in other cases people tried to inflate the price of their blocks by stamping LB into them when they were sold. Be careful. Now check for the location of the water pumps. If the water pumps mount on the block the engine is 1937 or later. All engines beginning in 1937 were inserts. Frequently you will encounter a 1937 block with factory block off plates held on by two bolts over the water pump passage at the front of the block as it was common for Ford dealers to install this engine as a replacement in the earlier cars. Of course there will be slight transition periods at model change over with the older blocks usually going into the commercial vehicles. There may be subtle differences between the 1933-34 and the 1935-36 engines but I am knowledgeable enough about these years to know what they are. The casting numbers on the flywheel housing will also help identify the exact year of the engine. Post what you find and someone can probably further identify the engine. 3) If there are 24 studs the engine was produced between 1938 and 1953 (1954 in Canada). If the distributor is mounted on the front of the block the engine is late 1938 through 1948 (1947 for trucks). If the distributor comes up at an angle and appears more like a modern distributor it is a 1949 (1948 for truck) through 1953 (1954 in Canada). The casting numbers on the flywheel housing will further identify the exact year of the engine. Post what you find and someone can probably further identify the engine. 4) There are a lot of additional foreign and industrial applications of these engines but the preceding covers the domestic US automobile production. Also see: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25301 Charlie Stephens
Wow Charlie! Very impressive, I’ve learned a ton just by reading your answers! Thanks so much. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Since it has the crank mount flange for a fan, does that make it a '40? Did the '39 60's come in a Deluxe model? I also see a fan mount up on the generator, but those are very easily changeable.
This is what I have of it, I was confused about the stub count, I've heard of the 21&24 stud but never a 17 stud and with the aluminum factory heads, is it worth getting ahold of, and what's it's value? Oh and can you do anything with the ignition?
I would pass on it. Remember the old saying, "You can't beat cubic inches". The V8 60 only has 136 cubic inches. The 85 had between 221 and 255 cubic inches. Speed equipment is expensive and hard to find for the V8 60. Here is a site you might find interesting: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_home.htm The owner of this site is a member of the HAMB. Charlie Stephens
The stock Model A engine (and the Model B that followed) had 200 cubic inches. That beats 136. Speed equipment is available. My first choice would be a banger or any V8 85. The V8 60 would come in a poor third. Attached is a picture of a V8 60 in a Model T and several Model A pictures. Charlie Stephens
Sorry I missed part of you last post Charlie, I would prefer the V8 look but this 60ho motor popped up for trade and again I didn't know enough on it to make the decision quite yet.
the 60hp motors are sought after by the old midget racers and boat crowd. the best was the 1940 with an all iron block, as the early models have "tin" sides on the water jackets. they are cute as the dickens, but thats about it. a friend had one in a model a, again, cute, but not too peppy
I worked with a mechanic that worked in a dealership when the V860 was new. He said it was the only engine he could change spark plugs while running and not notice a loss in power!