Hot Rods Do you have or plan to install a roll bar in your hot rod?

Same reason I quit welding roll cages in cars at my shop.
I did a lot of dirt track uni-bodies at my shop, I would cut holes in the top and bottom of the rockers and pass the main hoop tube through the rocker, weld a plate on the bottom of the tube, on both sides, then lift the tube and weld the plates to the bottom of the rockers. Then I would weld a plat on to the top of the rockers and to the main hoop. I did the same thing on the "A" pillar tubes. Then I would weld the bottom door bar to the main hoop and to the A pillars with the door bar laying on top of the rockers. I would run a bar across the car at the rear hoop and another bar just above the trans crossmember to the bottom door bars. The seat and the belts were attached to the two cross bars. The main hoop had a bar across the car at the top of the door height, the top of the seat was attached to this bar. There was also a diagonal bar across the main hoop from the left top corner to the right lower corner. A head head rest was attached to the diagonal bar. The upper door bars were attached at the top of the door height, and there was also a dash bar added at the same height across to both a pillar bars. Two additional door bars with upright supports between them were between the top and the bottom door bars. We also had bars forward and rearward of the main cage.
One of the cars with this cage design was hit broadside on the driver door by to competing cars that didn't see it, when it got up in the marbles and came down from the wall across the track, just past #2 corner. One of the cars hit full t bone directly centered on the driver side A pillar under full power. The main point of impact was about the bottom door bar. All 4 door bars bent. The cage, with the driver belted to the seat and cage moved towards the passenger side of the car a full 12". The process nearly flattened the drive shaft tunnel and tore the auto shifter off the floor. It bowed the entire car. When it was all said and done, both rockers were still welded to the cage with the driver side floor pan curled up under the cage. The driver got out to check the other 2 drivers.

When you build a cage for a uni-body car, you need to build it so when it bends, it pulls as much of the body structure as possible with it. The concept of building a roll cage is to protect the driver, not the car, and certainly not to look pretty. After a hard crash, how pretty the roll bar looked before doesn't matter to anyone. Gene

 

I want to fit one on the Comet but here in Austria (even more so than in NZ or Oz) this will have to be engineer approved and entered into the vehicle's papers which is a bloody nuisance (and money). Possibly after I get the other things done and have a healthy motor in the car. Until such time, I shall drive the car bearing in mind the limitations of circa 1964 safety technology...

 

I have built one for my model A, mainly to hang seat belts but I would like to drag race as well. Cage will be heavily padded and is bolt in to mounts welded on the frame, check out pics. Glen

 

Gradual check out a nhra rule books roll bar rules. There needs to be a horizontal bar behind the seats.

 

A horizontal bar would be easier to mount seat belts to as well. Not sure how you're gonna manage that with the x. Sure is going to limit seat movement to the rear too.

 

The reason for the horizontal bar is to keep the main hoop from collapsing from a side impact. The x doesn't do that.

 

I think one of the questions about installing a roll bar should be whether the person just wants to increase safety or does he also want to meet racing specs.....or also want a nostalgic look. Thats three questions

Anyway, I plan to build a 32 3 window next year and I've been thinking about making a roll bar from rectangular box tubing that could be placed near the rear of the door opening. It would follow the body contour and be close to the sides. It wouldn't work for racing specs, but would allow a less intrusive bar with slightly more head clearance. Since it has suicide doors, small angular braces that don't interfere with getting in and out would help support it and provide a little more "T bone" protection. Additional angular bars would go rearward and a crossbar between them to attach seatbelts. Not technically correct but additional protection.

As far as roadsters go, unless you build a full cage, it ain't gonna help........much!

 

Mine has a low side bar 6pt with the seats attached to cage and 4pt harness.

 

I've thought about it also for my Model A. The idea of getting hit in mine is scary. I also considered just something in the back in case I get rear ended sitting at a red light.

 

I like the low side bars. My car is already hard enough to get in and out of. Maybe that might be an option for mine.

 

You ain't kidding. Think about it when ever I'm in mine.

 

And that is why I always build a frame that goes all the way to the back of the car. Why not? I don’t understand stopping the frame right at the rear axle and leaving just the body past that.
r


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Makes sense. I didn't build mine but probably will be modifying it.

 

No one has mentioned it yet but it is really important to follow the seatbelt manufacturers recommendations when installing four, five or six point safety harnesses. Mounting points for lap belts and shoulder harness are extremely important to avoid abdominal and spinal compression injuries. As someone else said earlier if you are going to take the time to build a roll bar take the time to do it right same goes with mounting the belts.

 

I am considering a 4 point roll bar for my 57 Chevy 2dr. Sedan project. Will be a street only car as of right now. If i do add it, i want to mount the 4 points to the frame. Adding strength and some margin of safety.

 

For all you tri-5 guys this is a nicely designed kit. I'm going to try and duplicate it for my 57 Ford.

https://wildridesracecars.com/shop/general-motors/55-57-chevy-6pt-exact-fit-roll-bar/