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Technical 1949-51 MERCURY CENTER LINK, AIN'T THAT A DRAG?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ZZ Top Chop, Nov 4, 2019.

  1. ZZ Top Chop
    Joined: Aug 12, 2018
    Posts: 534

    ZZ Top Chop
    Member

    So, I replaced my oil pan over the weekend.......that's another story. :rolleyes: After buttoning the front suspension back up I noticed the rubber bushing/dust cover is completely missing on the center link that connects to the pitman arm. I 'm guessing I can't just find a bushing for this and I need a new center link? Second question, has anyone install the center link upgrade kit that Jamco sells and it looks like I'd need to replace my oil pan again with a SBC Nova style one? My tires are wearing on the outer sides appears to be camber related but wheels do not appear to be toed out and I want to get my suspension lined out before I get white walls. FYI my Merc has air ride. Again, thanks for the help and advice. s-l1600.jpg
     
  2. ZZ Top Chop
    Joined: Aug 12, 2018
    Posts: 534

    ZZ Top Chop
    Member

    Anybody....somebody?
     
  3. MAD MIKE
    Joined: Aug 1, 2009
    Posts: 782

    MAD MIKE
    Member
    from 94577

    If you just need a balljoint boot you can find those pretty much anywhere, just need to get the correct size.
    Jamco kit is supposed to fix a roll/bump steer issue these cars had. Does the Jamco kit actually fix the problem, dunno. I've read that there can be interfernence issues with lowered cars and the Jamco kit.

    Problem with an active suspension like air-ride or hydros is you will need to verify what the camber change is during suspension travel. Most likely you are not going to have 0° camber change. And with teh 49-51 roll/bump steer issue, changing ride height will also change toe.
    You will need to have the camber/toe verified at normal ride height to allow for best tire wear.

    But if you plan on driving the car at various or unknown ride heights your toe and camber will change(that roll/bump steer thing) and the front tires will get worn out a lot faster than normal.

    Only way to fix this is to plot out out your bump/roll steer and engineering new steering linkage.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  4. ZZ Top Chop
    Joined: Aug 12, 2018
    Posts: 534

    ZZ Top Chop
    Member

    Mike, thank you for your response. What I don't know is if the rubber bushing on the threads is molded and if so does that mean I can't find a bushing to fit or it needs a new center link all together, they are running like $275 which I think is ridiculous, and some want a core.
     

  5. MAD MIKE
    Joined: Aug 1, 2009
    Posts: 782

    MAD MIKE
    Member
    from 94577

    Sorry don't have a 49-51 in front of me, so what I can recall is that the centerlink has a balljoint on one end with a boot, the other end is a larger hole for the idler arm to bolt through, and the two center holes are tapered for the inner tierod BJ studs. If you are in need of something other than the BJ boot, then I am not aware of the component you are speaking of.
    Pics would be helpful.
     
  6. ZZ Top Chop
    Joined: Aug 12, 2018
    Posts: 534

    ZZ Top Chop
    Member

    Mike, you're right, that exactly how it's set up. Since the rubber is missing, IDK if it moved freely on the threads since it's between the pitman arm and center link As I'm thinking like on some ball joints when the rubber is shot you have to replace the ball joint itself not just the rubber bushing.
     
  7. MAD MIKE
    Joined: Aug 1, 2009
    Posts: 782

    MAD MIKE
    Member
    from 94577

    It's not a pressure vessel, it's just a dust boot.
    When everything is assembled the boot will be pushed against the BJ which will help keep it sealed.
    You just don't want the BJ exposed as contaminates can get into the joint or the grease which will cause premature wear.
    Find a boot that fits the BJ and you should be fine.
     

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