I'm building a model A on deuce rails and getting ready to build the floor boards. I'm planning to using tubing under the sheet metal, but I'm wondering what gauge of sheet metal to use? any thoughts please!!
If you have a bead roller, I'd guess that 18 gauge would be fine, otherwise you will probably have oil canning. I think most floors in old cars are 18 gauge but have a profile in them that makes them stiffer. I had a 49 Ford that had "new floors" and there was no profile in the floor and it oil canned. I bought a "flip car" (never do that again) and found lots of less than perfect worksman ship evident.
Just a personal opinion here but using tubing for an under structure is an over kill and pointless. Yes you need something to mount the seat to besides just Tin so a structural support. Henry did it with what I call a Hat Channel They have been doing the Job since the cars were new. I took that as good enough many years ago and many projects back. Just place them so they still do the Job at hand and make things easier. If some Mutton Head blows a light and T-Bones us all the under structure isn't going to make any difference. We just need the seat and seat belts to keep us in the body so the E.M.T's can find us.
I built a frame work out of 1/2 inch square tubing and covered it with 16 gauge sheet metal, put sound deadener on it and 16 gauge on the bottom, fits in like the plywood Ford used. I'm building a flathead powered A and don't need a transmission tunnel. The large hole is for the shifter and the slot is for the emergency brake, access to the master cylinder is the cover to the left. The toe board is the same and has a small offset where I notched the firewall.
Not that I'm aware of. All these parts were done in my standard sheet metal brake and done as I needed them for the job at hand. Just standard Tin Bending. The reason I mounted them opposite to Henry's method was so I didn't need wood blocks and my mount bolts are below carpet level.
I’ve built both a ‘32 roadster and my ‘29 rpu a I wonder why go to the trouble to use metal when plywood works fine. I also have a ‘33 two door than needed sound/heat barrier that the roadsters didn’t. What am I missing? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I think those hat channels are available here https://www.millsupply.com/hat-channel-floor-brace-sr6x48.php?p=343587
You can buy the stock style hat channels through any of the model A suppliers such as Snyder’s or Brattons. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Floor boards are called that for a reason. Ford made them out of wood in the front. It's worked well for me and no tubing involved. Plus they are removable. Sure make the transmission hump out of steel and screw it to the floor boards.
Never2old; Very valid points. Most of the projects I see where metal tubing is used is way overkill! It looks like they are trying to build Heavy Equipment instead of Hot Rods. Structural support is one thing but Come on Guys think about what your doing. Marine plywood and R.V. tape is also plenty good enough for floors. On my Roadster shown above with it Channeled 6" and running a stock 40 Ford steering wheel it became important to keep as much space between the bottom of steering wheel and floor pan as possible so I could have some kind of seat under my Old Ass as possible. When I was younger sitting on the Floor wasn't a big deal as long as it looked Kool, not so much today. As for Heat/Sound barriers, sometimes in some places but not to the extent most seem to go to. Must be a Kid Thing. Good to see the Hat Channels can be bought. Being I can walk over to a sheet of material, take it to my sheer then over to my brake I just never think of going shopping for that kind of stuff. I understand very few have that option at home. When doing the Visa Card mail order on that kind of stuff you need to be aware of the weight your shipping. Shipping cost can soon surpass the cost of the actual pieces your buying when it comes to hard parts. Most towns have small sheet metal shops around and at least for me these pieces are best built for the Job at hand not modify your job to fit the pieces someone else sells.
I actually got original used hat channels at a swap meet that I used in my coupe. I have a thread on my coupe build if you want to see. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I used 16 under the seat and 18 for the front and rear. I put a couple pans under the seats to have a little extra space as well. Yes they are stiff and it is overkill.
My coupe retained the stock subframe so I bought a full sheet of 16 gauge cold rolled and cut out the panels 1" oversize so I could fold a 90 degree hem all around. I fitted each panel in place, flush on the top with the subframe hat channels and stitch welded them in. The floor is really solid and it stiffened up the body considerably. Well worth the effort.
I just replaced the transmission in my roadster. Sure glad I could take out the floor boards to get at the top of it.
18 gauge cold rolled steel is what I use when making up floor pans. I have been making up the entire floor and seat for a mates 29 Roadster.
Yes, it's called "hat" channel, commercially. Or you could buy similar pieces for the Model A. You can find them through Snyders, Brookville, Mac's, etc. They're used in stock set-ups (just facing the opposite way). I also used them for my bulkhead.
Whats the thickness of the hat channel? Looks like 3/4 to 1 inch thick and about 4" wide. Am i anywhere close?
I read the prior post on tubing overkill & as I look back at my old first build, I plead guilty as charged. I guess it added a few pounds, but there sure is no flex. Here are some bits & pieces I pulled out of the archives.
The Jalopy Journal
