Projects Maybe it's time to post my own project thread ('56 Chev 210 HT)

Since you are draining and removing the master cylinder, it really doesn't matter. You could just drain the level down far enough to empty the master cylinder, but leaving the system open invites moisture in the brake fluid, and you will want to completely flush it when it goes back together.

 

Thanks for this... At this time I'm planning on removing the disc/drum master cylinder, and the forward brake lines ahead of the firewall. The rear line will stay in place, but it is likely in my best interest to drain as much of the whole system as possible, now.

 

Try to cap or plug off all that you can, it will be to you benefit if you get sidetracked for a while before you can get it back together.

 

quick update...

something I hadn't shared yet was the front frame horns are not square. Car probably suffered some sort of hit in it's past. When I went to the Good Guys show, yesterday, in Puyallup, WA, I talked to some tri-five owners/friends I know and got a line on a guy with a good reputation who does frame straightening. So before I do anything else, I want to talk to him about details, $, getting the car to him, etc. I'd enjoy hearing about anybody's experiences who may have been down this path before.

In the meantime, I can focus on getting myself a hefty compressor as I have some tasks ahead of me where I will need one. Looking at 80 gallon, 2-stage, single phase 5-7.5hp models.

Gotta56forme/Scott

 

Quite a few are bent from the front crossmember forward, and I'm pretty sure the front frame horns were sold as a service item. An experienced frame/bodyman will be able to measure yours and tell you all about it.

 

Quick update so you know I haven't lost interest or forgotten about this thread...
after a couple week wait, dropped my car off yesterday at a frame straightener. He runs a word-of-mouth business from his home shop, chooses who he will do work for, and has been doing it for many, many years. Did a '55 not too long ago. He agreed with some of what I saw out of true on my car, and found a few more things I hadn't noticed, or knew to look for, after a visual inspection.

Gotta56forme/Scott

 

When I picked up my 210 this week from the frame straightener, he pointed out one of the wheels was sticking/hanging up making it difficult to move the car around.. which I then noticed as well. When I got the car home, I figured out it was the right-rear wheel, so I pulled the drum. I had remembered reading about how the car moving backwards (re)adjusts the brake shoes. I watched a video on youtube about the 60's era gm/chevrolet self-adjusting brakes. When I pulled my drum, I noticed some of the parts in the self-adjuster video weren't in my assembly. I used a pair of pliers on the star wheel to close up the distance between the two shoes. This allowed the wheel to move freely again through it's full rotation. I'm sharing a photo for those in the know, to see if anything may be out of sorts...

 

Absolutely NO self adjustment mechanism there. There would normally be a lever and spring that contacts the star wheel, a small cable with a guide/fulcrum, and a loop on the opposite end that goes over the pin above the wheel cylinder. Self adjusting brakes were a later feature and not available yet on 56 Chevrolet's. They can surely be added however. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Agreed. I hadn't worked on a brake before yesterday, so I thought the star-wheel itself was the majority of the self-aduster. I spent the rest of my evening studying the video I mentioned, and looking up self-adjuster kits on the web. Found a high of $47 for rears only, thru Danchuks, and a low of $7-$8 a wheel thru RockAuto.

Anybody have any idea why the star-wheel had spun so far out as to almost lock the shoes against the drum? When I pushed the car out of my garage and onto the U-haul auto-transporter, to take it to the frame straightener, it moved easily. When I arrived there we had some trouble getting it off the trailer - may have been the sticky wheel. I had strapped it down at the rear-wheels, backwards on the trailer, since the majority of the weight was at the back of the car.

 

With the rest of the other parts missing the star wheel can move on it's own maybe vibrations during the trip turned it.

 

Wheel cylinder stuck further open maybe?

 

It might not be the star wheel at all, the way they were designed, the lower spring locks the star wheel to hold adjustment. It might be a damaged parking brake cable or frozen brake lever giving the problem. Just a thought...

 

Hmmm... you may have something there. Because there is no driveline in the car, I was using the emergency brake alot while transporting the car to & from the frame straightener.

 

Glad it is back in your hands, and looking forward to more stuff.

 

Good looking car

 

So, today was pressure washing phase 1 - Before I strip the front end I wanted to get the bulk of the grease & oil film off everything. I bought cans of oven cleaner at the dollar store, like suggested in other threads. I had done a little bit of pre-scraping to get the little bit of caked grease off. I used two cans of oven cleaner on the firewall and chassis spraying generously into all the nooks & crannies I could. Even working outdoors with a light-breeze the oven cleaner fumes weren't easy to avoid and are strong. Also tried out my new Ryobi 3100 pressure washer I bought at HD last week. I let the degreaser set for 30 minutes and it had dried in some places. Everything went pretty well and I'm pleased with the general degreasing. The pressure washing even blew some of black & blue paint off the firewall exposing more of the original '56 Matador Red.

Next, I will pull everything I can off the frame forward of the firewall, and do another piece by piece degreasing, before I start prepping for firewall & chassis paint.

 

Here's the latest... pulled the steering wheel, steering mast, master brake cylinder and front brake lines Friday & Saturday. Just need to pull the front suspension apart now, to have the front completely stripped. I haven't had a chance to read my '56 shop manual yet, but I'm wondering if all I need is a pickle fork and coil spring compressor for specialty tools, for those of you who have been down this road before.

Gotta56forme/Scott

 

You're right, that's about all the specialty tools there is, until you have to press the bushings out of the control arms. The 55 shop manual and the 56 supplement show all the specialty tools, and most of them are pretty easy to make, if need be. You're making great progress and the 'Ol Girl looks pretty solid to boot! Can't wait to see it completed!

 

Any updates???

 

Sorry, I was experiencing a (red-headed) distraction and still haven't ordered a couple of specialty tools I need. Hope to be back on track soon...

 

You'll have that on your bigger job's!

 

You know, if you pull the body off of the frame, you could do a really thorough job on the underside. Thats what I did with mine. I hadn't intended to in the beginning, but I just got carried away. Glad I did though because it was easier to replace everything like body mounts and suspension parts.


Oh.......and I LOVE redheads!

..

 

I'm planning on replacing all the bushings in the front end and maybe some ball joints. Tie rod ends look low mileage. I have a 20T shop press, but you mentioned a specialty tool for the bushings. Any guidance on choosing the right tool for bushing replacement? Just may help me fill out my Summit order so I can get to the $99 free-shipping threshold...

 

The main pieces you're going to need are the supports for between the control arm bushings. They're not really needed although they are recommended and can easily be made with a scrap piece of pipe with a large enough ID for the bushings to pass through. Cut it so it fits between the ears of the control arm, and then cut it in half long ways. This is only really needed on the install process. For removal, just press the shaft down to push the bushing out of the arm, flip and repeat. You're probably gonna need the help of a torch too, after all these years, but try it without heating the arm first. If it seems like it's taking alot of pressure to get it to break loose, keep the pressure on and start heating the arm around the bushing and it should break loose.
Her are some pics of the dealer service tools so you can judge for yourself what they are supposed to look like and how they're used.
Hope this helps, Jedd

 

I remember those days.

 

Many, many thanks for the clear, concise reply - that helps!

 

Your welcome.
You also might consider some offset cross shafts for the upper arms to get some extra camber adjustment. I think that they give an extra 2° positive camber.

 

I'll look into those. When I googled the j-5888 tool, I came across some web-links with dimensions on how to make the needed tools out of scrap square & round tubing. Seems easy enough, just will need to track down some the right dimension scrap - thanks again!

Gotta56forme/Scott

 

If you have an old Chevy dealer in your area, with any luck, they might still have that stuff stashed away in the tool room, and might possibly let you rent them for the day. Just might be worth asking...

 

Sadly, most of the Chevrolet dealerships have left the inner Seattle area for the outskirts so nothing is nearby to me. It is an intriguing idea though. Had a Chevrolet dealership half mile from me until 10 years ago but it was razed to make way for multi-story apartment condo units.

Sent from my SM-A102U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app