Ok I’m on the hunt for a clean model A chassis. This is my first build like this and I want to know what to look for before I go a drop a couple grand on a decent chassis. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Front crossmember pads for radiator mount on 30-31 are lower than on a 28-29 because of the taller radiator. Other than that for a hot rod it won't mater what year really. If you are building a 28-29 on a 30-31 frame you can add a spacer to raise the radiator to the right height, but not the other way around. This info is for stock frames and front crossmembers. Dave
What is your goal? Traditional buggy springs, split bones, A-V8? Stock A frame is tough, but also old, and finding one without stress cracks or loose rivets, or, worse, damaged cross members that will need replacement... not easy.
I’ve got a 27 touring body I’m gonna be putting on an A chassis. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Look for a 30-31 frame then. Use a 28-9 radiator. That will lower it a little to help it line up with the cowl. I space the body up with a 2x6 trimmed to fit to get the hood line to look right. What engine? I have done 2 Model A chassis/27 T roadster pickups this way. Piecing together a 3rd one now with front half of a 26-7 T touring body. All had Model A banger engines. Current one has an early Model AR frame, 28 radiator with a couple of T radiator shells cut and welded together to get it tall enough for the 28 radiator. Had to enlarge the filler neck hole some too. Dave
Ok so I just picked up a running and driving 31 chassis. Are you just issuing the 2x6 as body mounts any pictures of how your doing it? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Make sure you true up the frame before you do any mounting of your body etc. The weak spot where a sag develops is the 19" between the driver side, rear motor mount and the middle crossmember. A lot of weight is concentrated in that area such as battery, and driver and years of bad roads. I have seen as much as a 3/8" dip in this area. The '29 I'm working on now was down about 1/8". Easy to correct with a couple of bottle jacks, chains and a sturdy base.
Can't recall where I saw it but I remember seeing one fabbed up from 2x3" rectangular tube with the frame horns made by slicing the tube and tapering it. I think it was z'ed in the back for a 4 link live axle and transverse spring and straight axle up front. Not much to an A frame that can't be made in the garage.
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