Technical What is this tool?

I used to own a portable EDM. Guess what I was called out to use it for the most.

 

Fact !

 

Oh yeah, Tri-power!!! I make a 'centering jig', usually a simple drill press steel (or aluminum) block, that will just fit the 1/8" bit I'm starting with. Centering the punch is the worst part...the rest is a breeze! Then, on with the left hand drill bits. (and lots of P.B. Blaster, OR, WD40/Diesel. 50/50. Farmer's mixture. Works like a champ. Cheap.

 

Those are called Fuckyouovers. If you buy the ones from The Harbor and break one, they are easy to drill out as the are made out of wood.


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Yes Atwater Mike I totally agree. The garage I work at has bought a centering jig tool made by snap on tools - it is a template of different exhaust manifolds. It centers the drill bit perfectly in the center of the broken bolts and maintains the exact angle and depth needed. When the drilled hole is perfectly accurate extraction is much easier.
What I hate is when they get broken off in a area you can’t possibly get at - at all. What I do then is stare as hard as I can at the broken bolt and with all my mental ability - try to generate a laser beam shooting from my eyes that will melt the broken bolt. It hasn’t worked yet!

 

A broken easy out is right up there with being in a desert with no water or hitting your thumb with a hammer. Best case is to proceed with hitting your thumb with a hammer. Avoid the other two scenarios.

 

I much prefer the easy-outs with the tapered ends with straight grips over the ones pictures. The one pictured tends to spread out the broken bolt where the ones with the taper ends and straight grips don't spread the broken bolt out as much. I still have a set of 3 different sized easy-outs like the ones pictured that have removed a lot of broken off bolts. At one time, I worked in factory maintenance, the opportunity presented itself to remove a lot of broken bolts using easy-outs. After you break a few off, you learn the proper way to use them. Gene

 

Looks like my brother. He's a tool.

 

Easy-out: The world's most ironically named tool.

"I have broken eight 7/64 taps in the last 2 1/2 weeks."

Are you sure about the 7/64 tap?

 

6-32, no wonder they broke.

 

Anything with the word "Easy" in it is bound to not be!

Dave

 

The exception to this was a girl I new in school.

 

BJR that was called an easy-in !

 

I broke a bolt holding the alternator on a 327 in a 40 Ford coupe, it was easier to pull the engine to get to the problem than removing the grille shell & radiator and assorted pieces of sheet metal, it was a huge pita but I did succeed in removing the offending bolt.

Anyone that ever built a 40 Ford knows if the sheet metal fits good don't mess with it. HRP

 

A little off topic but the 1/2 inch version is great for removing broken 1/2 inch water pipes. This is true for both the galvanized pipes and plastic pipes (sprinkler repair). They do make a cheaper version for the plastic pipes. As far as automotive use for the smaller size if the fastener failed in tension they are great but if they failed due to over torquing or rust they are probably not a good choice.

Charlie Stephens

 

I’ve got a set of inside pipe wrenchs for that job.





Bones

 

How do you know?

 

Someone once told me.

On a serious note, I actually have had good luck more times than not using them or left hand drill bits to remove bolts or fittings that have broken off. But, it only takes one time breaking one to never do that again too. At least that is what I have been told...

 

Yep, “easy out”.

Used many, many times working at my dads production machine shop. Essentially had at least one a day! Almost always an exhaust stud/bolt, always made worse by exposure to elements and a billion heat-cycles to make the bolt harder than the hubs of hell.

We fixed ‘em with fire.

1) Drill the hole as near dead center as humanly possible.
2) Grab the acetylene torch with the smallest tip ya got.
3) Apply heat around the rim of the center of the hole ya just drilled, getting the !@#! bolt cherry red. Don’t hang around too long with the heat because the idea is to heat just the offending, broken bolt, not the surrounding material.
4) Immediately douse the bolt with lots of WD40 the moment it stops glowing. This rapid temp change shrinks the offending stud. There will be smoke. And sometimes fire burning off the WD40
5) Gently tap the easy out into the offending bolts new hole, getting it as straight as possible, and very snug.
6) Put your biggest tap handle possible on the easy out. Turn counterclockwise slowly while lightly tapping the back of the easy out with a small hammer, simultaneously turning. Takes 2 dudes. (Alternate version: use a crescent wrench instead of the tap handle so one guy can do it all, tapping while turning. NOT FOR A NOVICE, as you’ll likely break the easy out with an untrained hand)

Enjoy!

 

I havent hear anything good about that easy-out style bolt extractors. I have used this style extractor set and it have worked fine, even with the rusted bolts:
http://unclewiener.com/product/new-25-pcs-screw-extractor-easy-out-drill-guide-bolt-remover-s1040/

Ofcourse the really rusty ones need WD40 or other stuff like that, but i think there's even somekind of chance to get the broken bolt out with that set. I cant say same about that easy out crap

 

Of course. We just have to remember that at one point in our lives we didn't know anything that we know now. If we are curious, we are constantly learning new things that are in someone else's pile of "I've known that all my life."

 

If the bolt broke and had been bottomed out in a blind hole just about any method you use takes more effort and a bit of luck. Bolts in an exhaust manifold, or stainless fasteners anywhere need anti-seize on them, in fact consider any fasteners that may get rusty and use anti-seize there too. Planning ahead can many times head off the need for that easy out. If you use an easy out and think you need a bigger wrench then for sure try some heat and WD40, or another penetrant as mentioned above, the bigger wrench and too much force is when the easy out is gonna snap.

 

Can you post a picture of your inside pipe wrench.? I know it is off topic but I am having trouble picturing what it looks like.

Charlie Stephens

 

Inside pipe wrench, a knurled shaft with a knurled cam that locks inside the pipe.

 

You gotta be quick on this forum! Lol






Bones

 

Thanks for the answer. It is amazing what is out there.

Charlie Stephens