I've read a few posts and I have a powerglide book coming. My '41 has a aluminum powerglide, it leaks pretty good from the rear seal, a little from the shift seal, so I back it into the driveway (angled) and now the front seal is leaking. I've changed the fluid twice since I've had it (less the 25k and 2 yrs) both times there's been brown glittery mud on the pan bottom. This trans "was" rebuilt sometime in the 70's and hasn't really run since the early 80's. So I'm going to say it needs to be gone through again. I'm keeping the powerglide since the cooler lines, driveshaft, shifter and kick down are all set up for it. The first question is where to get really good quality parts and kits, any good mods to make it last longer on the street (stock SBC). Lastly has anyone taken the tailshaft off in the car to remove it and re installed it putting the tailshaft on inside the car. Reason I ask is it isn't setup to remove in the car. 3 options it looks like, 1 is to remove the engine and then the trans, 2 is to try to bust the rivets on the center lower plate, cut the trans mount and make everything a bolt in and 3 is to try to take the tailshaft off inside the truck. Some crappy pics of the trans end:
The tailshaft is the first part you install in the case, and it goes in from the front. So no, you can't take the tailshaft off, without taking the transmission out of the car and taking it all apart. But you can remove the tail housing, if you want....not sure that would gain you anything, and would be difficult or impossible in your case.
you can put a seal and bushing in the tail housing without taking it off the trans. need a bushing puller that slips around the shaft. as for the pump seal obviously you need to pull the trans. a little brass in the pan is pretty normal but it could be excessive bushing or thrust washer wear. I'd go thru it if I were you.
I buy virtually ALL my performance Powerglide parts from that auction site we all know and love. Fair prices, arrive quickly, and are name brand. For a street Powerglide, I'd throw a steel direct hub in it with 5 lined plates, and do away with the wavy steel, same thing with the reverse clutch pack and toss the wavy steel also. Use a Trans-Go shift kit and whatever pressure regulator spring used for how you drive.. You can use a factory rebuilt 4 or 6 cylinder torque converter for a little more stall, or even buy an aftermarket one from the same auction site. The trans will still shift automatically, and not be harsh at all; at WOT, and manual shifting it, you'll definitely need Poly-Grip for your dentures. When I built the Powerglide for my nephews 51 Chevrolet Business Coupe "Street Gasser", because of the trans cross-member, we could't use the vacuum modulator; so I replaced it with a "plug" the circle track racers use. Still shifted fairly soft in automatic mode; in manual mode, it was really a HARD shift. You don't hear Powerglides chirping the tires going into high gear very often, but this one did it readily and frequently. I have a couple of Powerglides waiting for their turn to be used, including one that will be getting an 8 pack direct clutch setup, trans-brake, and a few other tricks of the Powerglide trade. Be sure you set the clutch packs up with the recommended clearances; what most don't know is, when a clutch (reverse or direct) is't actively being used, those clutches get "driven through", so you don't want them setup too tight (causes more drag and that equals heat) The only thing I really dislike about the Powerglide, is dealing with the baked on oil and crud; they're a bear to clean by hand, especially around the rear of the case where the reverse clutch is located. Heat from the "driven through" reverse really bakes the stuff on in that area. Growing up, we always said, "slipping and sliding with a Powerglide", and no one wanted one. Now, they have't been made since 1973, and they're getting harder to find, because they're so popular with the drag/bracket racers. Your book you have coming, is probably Carl Munroe's book; it covers everything, and I mean everything. Mine (2) get used so much they're wearing out. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Good to know on the powerglides getting harder to find. I have a 1969 Camaro 80,000 original miles engine/trans/rear but going to stick a 4 speed behind the engine when a project presents its self. Debating whether to put trans on shelf or sell it.
I have a couple around as cores. Also other automatics for the same reason. If someone needs one, I may deal one or more out to them. Kick my self in the ass for getting rid of a couple of TH350s that were in great condition.
+1 on Carl Munroe's book (RIP Carl) - He was a GREAT guy - his kids run the business now (TSR Racing in Keene, NH) and thats where I get my stuff - The kids are great people too - so few business still work on a handshake - they have always gone out of their way for me...
I would go with your #2 choice- IF that will allow you to then remove transmission. I think someone else said that a Turbo 350 would be a direct swap, and I think that is correct, except maybe your shifter. So if I read correctly you want to go thru this transmission completely because of other issues and the leaks? If so why don't you buy another rebuilt PG or T350 and just swap it out. Then sell your PG to a drag racer? Good luck with it.
you need the tail shaft length to match the length on your PG if you replace with a TH 350.meaning overall length from bell housing to tip of tail. 6 9 12
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