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Technical humor an old guy

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by nutter_street_rodder, Oct 22, 2019.

  1. nutter_street_rodder
    Joined: Sep 16, 2011
    Posts: 102

    nutter_street_rodder
    Member
    from Nevis MN

    My '40 Ford pu has had a Chevy small block since I bought it in 1966. First a 265, then a 283, and finally a 350 from a early 70's Camaro. Well, its getting tired again. Maybe sounds goofy, but I am still stuck on the original type small blocks. But I am not familar with all the changes they made to the engines. I dont want a modern crate engine with fuel injection. I am wondering what years and type of vehicles I can look for a an engine that uses a distributor, an old style intake, short water pump, etc. Trans is a '71 Monte Carlo 350.
     
  2. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 6,744

    BamaMav
    Member
    from Berry, AL

    You can buy a carbed crate engine. Summit has several listed. Anything from a 190 hp 350 up to a fully blueprinted high dollar engine.
     
    LOU WELLS likes this.
  3. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,043

    squirrel
    Member

    Chevy still makes them (in mexico) that will bolt right in, brand new....the only strange thing is the oil pan and block are set up for installing a dipstick on either side.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19355658

    If you want a junkyard engine, you can get one from 1985 or earlier, and it will bolt in, your intake and distributor and flywheel will work with it.
     
    LOU WELLS and dana barlow like this.
  4. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,189

    manyolcars

    The smallblock is the traditional solution for the flathead v8 problems, always has been. It seems weird that some of the young guys want to go back to those problems
     

  5. GM still offers what everyone now calls “Gen 1” small blocks. To me they will always be the Only Small Block. All of the other ones that come after that are called other things. That being said, the most affordable one is P/N 10067353. Any Chevy dealer can (should have on hand) get you one. It’s complete, minus intake manifold, and damper. It even has a warranty, 3/36 if installed in a vehicle that was originally equipped with a 350, or 1/12,000 miles for everything else. Best deal going on a new 350, cast crank, two piece rear main, dipstick on either side, four bolt mains, powdered metal rods, hydraulic cam. I believe GM rates it at 250 HP with a four barrel and headers.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  6. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,280

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Not so young but all of the problems that plagued those Flathead’s years ago have been rectified.
    Everything but cost per horsepower.
    That’ll never go away.
     
  7. yeah....what the radiator guy told me...........
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  8. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 5,257

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Why not rebuild the one you have , you can make it any flavor you want , vanilla to jalepeno...
     
  9. nutter_street_rodder
    Joined: Sep 16, 2011
    Posts: 102

    nutter_street_rodder
    Member
    from Nevis MN

    retirement calls for something running in a used condition, so pre '85 sounds like my answer.
    I like the flatty comment, I could have bought 2 or 3 Chevy crate engines for what it cost me to build a good '39 24 stud for my deuce before I retired!
    Thanks all!
     
  10. Pete Eastwood
    Joined: Jul 27, 2011
    Posts: 1,324

    Pete Eastwood
    Member
    from california

    Hahaha . . .
     
    Petejoe and kidcampbell71 like this.
  11. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,948

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Anything pre FI will work with your carb and your distributor.
    Someone can tell you when they they went from 2 piece rear main seal to one piece that takes a different flexplate or flywheel.
    Still finding a really good 80/85 Small block at is good for better than 50K (ball park figure) without major issues might be a challenge and probably means finding a well kept low mile rig that suffered body damage but that you can still drive and dial in the engine before you pull it. In MN that might be that great running rig that is rusted to the tops of the wheel wells that has served as a Winter rig for someone for the last several years.
    As for myself, I'd pull the engine figure out how much I had to bore it and buy an engine kit from Northern Auto parts with the good bearings, gaskets and rings and after machine work not be in it any more than finding a good one out of a donor.
     
    Truckdoctor Andy likes this.
  12. 41rodderz
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 6,541

    41rodderz
    Member
    from Oregon

    What you need is a nice six inliner:) Varoom , varoom.
     
  13. 41rodderz
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 6,541

    41rodderz
    Member
    from Oregon

    Remember , "six in a row, can go" .
     
  14. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,043

    squirrel
    Member

    like I said before, 1985 or earlier.
     
    olscrounger likes this.
  15. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,659

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    Another vote for rebuilding what you have. If you have done your maintenance by the book maybe all you need is rings, bearings, timing chain and a valve touch up. Summit and others have cheap rebuild kits, cheaper than a new engine. As you are retired the time should not be too much of an issue.
     
    tractorguy likes this.
  16. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,505

    alchemy
    Member

    Rebuild what you have. Rebuild parts for a 350 are the cheapest you can buy. There's so many of them out there that the kits are surprisingly affordable. And there's got to be a friend in your circle who can help with the machine work and assembly.
     

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