Alright, So after another weekend at another car show, I have finally successfully talked my old man into rodding his 1930 Model A. He loves the car, but hates driving it with the 4 cylinder in it. I've been given the green light to start with the rebuild of the car. I've got a 401 Nailhead going in it along with an automatic transmission (he requested an auto transmission). So, now my question for all y'all, what can I pull a rear end out of that will fit? Also how much can I get away with dropping the front end? It'll stay full fendered. He doesn't want to change anything with the way it looks on the outside unless its a little fatter tire and wheel. I also want to get away from the mechanical brakes and put some juice to them all around. Help me out y'all! I gotta start putting together this budget for him so I can begin this before he changes his mind! This is him with the car.
It may just be me but I think he would be happier with a smaller engine. Can you find someone local that has one he could drive or at least ride in? How about putting your general location in your profile? Charlie Stephens
Oh wait. I know. My uncle has a ford bronco rear end in all his model a’a Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I appreciate all the feedback on the engine decision, but I’m really just lookin for a recommendation on reared recommendation. Which I got. I’ll be doin some measurements tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You are going to box and build the frame first aren't you? How are you going to hang the rear, Model A has the spring over the axle, that will be way too high. You might want to think about a new frame from places like T.C.I. etc. They come boxed, with disc brakes, motor and trans mounts, suspension, etc. It might be cost efficient and simpler. 9" Ford is the way to go for the rear. Lot's to think about, you just don't drop in a "nailhead" and new rear.
I will be boxing the frame and doing a 4-link system on the rear end. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If you can find one, a Ford Maverick 8" rear end is the best fit (you want a five lug rear, early 6 cylinders at 4 lug). The 57-59 Ford 9" is the narrowest 9" made. The 66-77 Bronco 9" is 58" outside drum to drum, this will have the 5.5" bolt pattern which matched the early ford wheels. . A 401 Nailhead is a really long engine, expect a Really big firewall setback. 4" dropped axle, you could send your stocker out to have dropped. Ford front brakes, you can use 39-48 Ford Lockheed style, or go with the aftermarket Lincoln Bendix style.
I don't want to be that guy who says, "search" but I found a ton of helpful info, recently, looking for info on what width would be best for my Coupe. My set-up is so different, so I'm not too much help. Actually, I tried finding the thread but I'm not on my game, tonight. Still, it might be worth an evening looking at what people have done. It saved me a bunch of work.
Early bronco 9” pre 1976 they are the perfect width and have large 5.5” bolt pattern. Brake parts are readily available for them anywhere.
For the rear I'd use one from a Ford Explorer, say from the 90's or so, junkyards are full of them, right width and dirt cheap.
When I installed the dropped axle on my avatar,I also reversed the eyes but the tires hit the under side of the fenders.I'm using 195/80R16 tires. Your dad will enjoy his Model A engine a lot more with a high compression head and a fully synchronized 3speed with overdrive. The Model A 4cyl is a hazard to other traffic but the hi compression head allows you to run with modern traffic in town and the O/D transmission is wonderful.
I agree with the 9" Ford Bronco, it's the correct width and you keep the 5 x 5.5 Bolt pattern, If you are interested in a suggestion why not thing about a transverse spring and ladder bars for the rear, a dropped axle and some split bones up front. HRP
So my plan is to get a 8.8 from a local shop here by my. Next, should I go with this 4 link set up or is there a better way to go? With it being universal, I could change my mind later down the road and swap rear ends out. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...Parallel-4-Link-Rear-Suspension-Kit,8984.html
I have 9" rears in both cars, but I'm thinking you would be better off going 8.8. Easy to narrow, takes moderate HP and is lighter. A triangulated 4 link is going to fun to hang on an "A" frame and parallel 4 link would be a PIA and just for show. I have a triangulated ladder bar in my '31 and it's just fine.
Mid '80's Jeep CJ7. 5 on 5 1/2 and the width is a good fit as well and probably cheaper than a Bronco rear end.
Any chance you dad would be happy with a slightly hopped up model A engine? Too much hop up and you will loose reliability. What about a late model 4 cylinder or small V8? I am running a 181 cubic inch Mercruiser marine engine in my AVATAR (same as the 181 GM industrial engine). Of course it will need hydraulic brakes and a better steering (F100). Be sure to post your budget here for comments when you finish it. Charlie Stephens