Projects 1940 Chevy Sedan SEGA Gasser Build

I think Patriot makes a set for fat fender Chevy's. Speedway sells them,IIRC. Not sure how well they fit though...
Fenderwell exit too.

 

Glad you got the Ford 9"..You've probably noted already that the leaf spring center bolt is about an 1-1/2" [forward?] from center of stock axle or so.. I not sure but you maybe able to turn springs around or just re drill the locating hole in axle pad; another thought is to mount the axle that 1.5 or so forward and just radius the wheel openings to match..If springs are not broken you can get them rebuilt/re arched to suit your needs clean them up your self..I would like to see you up grade the front brakes and go to cross steering which allows you to place steering box in a more out of the way location for more engine/header room....

 

On the rear center pin thing , add new spring pads that the hole is offset or redrill your current pad if you have room . On the many 37 , 38s I have tinkered on I simply made a 3/4 lowering block with offset hole and pin to make it workout very easily .

 

Your lower plate that the UBolts go through will have to be offset the same amount , if you were wandering . You are probably a bit smarter than me and figured this out without explanation .

 

Those are all good ideas. It will be a combo of every thing mentioned.
We’re going to radius the fenders after we pound them out. Their beat pretty bag. I’d scrap them but I’m thinking their 1 year only.

Also thinking about switching to Tri-5 Chevy rear springs.

At first I was going to keep drum brakes on the front. Switch over to truck drum and spindles.
Now that I have a BBC going in with easy an easy to build 500hp I’m rethinking the disc brake idea.
If I can keep it 6 lug in the front I will be happy. I want to keep my original from 16” wheels. I’m told I should be able to get truck discs to work.




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I’m sure I can do cross steer with a corvair box.

My front springs are the same size as the springs on my Willys Jeep. So I’m going to see what I can put together from those.

I hadn’t thought about turning the springs around...

Curious if tri-5 headers will fit on my 40.


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The spring change is well worth the effort . The OEM springs were not designed to handle the torque , that’s what the torque tube did . I twisted up a new set of OEM springs into an S shape playing too hard on the go pedal . I would built a set of traction master type bars , going in to the swap , you will be way ahead if you do . The frames are not super strong , but they work fine if designed correctly . As far as brakes , easy old time swap is 49-54 stuff with 61-64 hub for roller bearing and 5 lug on the straight axle .

 

I have a few ideas to strengthen the frame. My concern was tweaking it from wheels up and coming back down....
-weld riveted spring hangers
-fish plate a few spots



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You will probably want a BBC block hugger header but it's going to be extremely tight around the stock steering box and column, not only for box clearance but possibly plug clearance. A tri-five BBC fender well header might be best all around.

You will also want to use a short water pump and associated brackets and pulleys as the BBC is longer than a SBC.

 

I plan to use the short pump, I might cheat and run an electric fan if I’m out of room. Or go all out and redo the fire wall to get the set back.

I think the strait 6 I pulled is longer than the BBC.

I will make sure I can remove the plugs easily. I’m making my steel fender and hood a 1 piece tilt.



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Just buy the header kit from Speedway and fab your own headers. Is this erector set or a hot rod ?
Fabbing your own parts is the most satisfying aspect to building a car.
There was nothing available for my Morris that I could just look in a catalog and order. Everything needed to be modified or fabricated.
That's why I can say built not bought . Here is a picture of my headers if you think tour are going to be difficult. This was a Speedway header kit for chassis headers. I used a speedway Vega box and mine is cross steer.

 

How’s that car doing with south east gassers? What class did you end up in?



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Man I’m not sure you can make a stock frame safe enough to support the down effects of a wheel stand . I suppose they did it years ago , but I have never seen the mods or if it was even a stock frame . Just be safe a design it with a factor of safety . Drive it like you stole it !

 

Tube connected to the frame and tied into a cage similar to many chevy II cars and tri-5 cars with a strait axle, it should make a huge difference. Fish plates on each side aft of the spring hangers should also help.


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The car ended up in B/Gas by 5 lbs. Un fortunately it twisted the input shaft on my trans and am having Liberty build me a new input shaft. We are getting ready for next season. New motor and some more changes.

 

Looks like a fun little car. I read through your build up last night.


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I wouldn't be too worried about the stock frame . Have seen lots of Falcons with stamped sheet metal front ends with axle conversions doing wheelstands for years with nothing more than a down tube off the stamped firewall.

 

I’m going to add the down tube. The frame on my 40 looks like the bare front frame of a Chevy II. Allot of those cars add a down tube.


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Starting to build a one piece front end. My is son helping sand things down. We also dropped the crank shaft off at the machine shop. Looking a some domed pistons, and H beam rods. An Isky z-55 cam should bring it all together. I have some headers on the way so I can get the engine mocked up.


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Is this going to be a 'race only' gasser? or......a street rod 'poser-gasser'? Not being ugly just need to know. Race only fender well headers will work.(should be pretty simply to build....not much interference in the way) Street rod I'd go with some type of long tube or block hugger. If you set the engine back the 10% or whatever....that will make things a little easier on the need strength for wheel stands because some of the weight will be off the nose of the car.
If its a street rod then by all means KEEP the visor. Cool look. If real race gasser ...the 9" has MANY ratios to choose from. According to how long the strip is (1/4 or1/8 mile) will determine the gear. 1/8 mile maybe something in the 5's(available for the 9") Fun build..........hope some of our suggestions help.
6sally6

 

We have a title and the car is registered for the street with a Klickitat county Washington State 1940 plate. I’m building a full cooling system including oil cooler. We want to be able to drive it to the track. If it’s too far away we could trailer it to save on gas.

I’m going to try 4:10 gears. It should work good with the isky z-55 cam.

I have a plan for strengthening the frame. Part of it includes a cage.

Sorry that visor got traded away.





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Did some digging today at my old stomping grounds. Lots of old Chevy six lug wheels. Plenty of 6 lug spoke wheels. Some different types military combat wheels. And lots of building material for my ladder bars and any thing else I might need to fab. Lots of history in this scrap pile. Several horse drawn wagons. All that’s left is the iron frame axles and springs.


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I like where you're going with it, big block and a 9 inch is always good, I didn't catch what transmission you have planned. When talking about the Chevy ll down tubes from the firewall that's because they are unibody, that's why the extra support is needed.
I also like the street strip deal, that's how I do mine, pull the wheels on the track and commute 45 minutes to work without issues.
I'm sure you've heard of "old gold", a 39 chevy sedan from Vancouver, if not look it up and read up.

https://www.columbian.com/news/2011/dec/22/worth-its-weight-in-gold/

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On your tilt front end the rear part of the fenders will hit. On the 40 I built, I found a bearing deal, it was like a shaft that slides through some bearing blocks and used them. I made it so the front would slide forward about 4 or 5 inches and then tilt. One person could do it with no problem. I think thecorrect name was linear bearings, found them on ebay. Patriot 55, 57 headers fit but I didn't care for them to much.

 

High school buddy had a 39 Chevy with a little 265 in it. Kept the drive shaft tube (weak link) but was quite a mover. He ran dual truck(round ones) mufflers and had a very wicked tone.....especially when he kicked in the four barrel.
That was only 50+ years ago but it seemed like only 46years ago.
6sally6

 

Love it! Watching.
Building one very similar only the coupe version. Pump gas big block and 4 speed. Here is a few pics to show the direction my bucket of bolts is heading. Maybe it’s overkill or may maybe it’s not enough...we shall see! Chassis bracing is 1 5/8” x .083 chromoly. Car will also be getting full chromoly cage.

 

Nice Coupe!! I wish it were mine.