A spacer a little over a quarter inch needs to be placed between the top of the wishbone and the bottom of the axle.
I think I used a 5/16" spacer if I remember right. I cut mine from plate steel. My spacer is currently between the top of the axle and perch. But it could be changed around easily enough.
My neighbor did this to one of his roadsters maybe 12 years ago, he was King Of the Hill once here in Long Beach at the annual hill climb, and I thought he said he just added threads to the perch? I've never done it, just trying to remember what he said. It was a quick and easy way to lower the car too, he used a stock A axle like guitarguy.
I used the difference in the perch area of the t axle vrs the a axle. I came up with needing a space .263 thick and .685 Id. Anything over that is fine as long as the castle nut engages the the cooter pin hole. One could also cut the threads longer as well! Stay tuned when I get my engine to see what happens at the other end of the wishbone!
Sometimes the obvious solution eludes us. I never thought about just cutting more threads in the perch. But the only issue I see with that---at least for me, is you'd have to turn the axle pin of the perch down before doing so as the threaded area and axle pin diameters are different. The spacer seemed quite easier to do. I know I first tried a 1/4" (.250") thick spacer first, and it worked, but you'd have to drill another hole for the cotter pin to go through...If you wanted the cotter pin to go through the castleated portion of the nut. The 5/16" (.312")spacer puts the nut where it needs to be for the cotter pin to go through as it should in the stock location. Hope I conveyed that info properly...it sounded good in my head. EDIT: I just went and measured, It was a 5/16" spacer I made, NOT a 3/8". I have corrected my posts to reflect that for anyone in the future.
Bought this 23-25 T Touring front half in two different locations. Rough enough to cut in half and build a Lakes Modified. Fun finding stuff, even better when you can sell it to a friend on the HAMB who will build it a lot quicker than me. Bob
I want to open it so bad but another hamber has it at his place. Hard to believe in this day and age someone will help you the way guitarguy has! I don’t think I will be able to sleep until it gets here, too excited! And even when it gets here I will probably sit in it all night making engine noises.
Yes, the seller built the crate and shipped it through a trucking company. Being trucking companies kill the pricing on residential deliveries---especially with liftgate service, I had David ship it to my workplace. Its loaded on my car trailer ready for delivery on Sunday. Sunday is going to be a great day! I peeked and opened it! It appears to be a nice body that needs some TLC. But that's why they call them projects, right? But it is a real steel Henry Ford body.
It’s going to need wood, and some metal work but I can tell you for the number of model t runabouts built from 1917-1925 they are super hard to find in any condition at all! Here’s a sneak peak guitarguy sent me last night. Unfortunately that dark red dust is the shape the wood is in. Like he said it’s a project, but it will be done right and I will keep this car forever so if I get a tad deep into it I won’t feel to bad. If Isky can keep a t roadster forever why can’t I!
Saw this picture from Hershey on the AACA site. Looks like a nice roadster. Any idea who's it is, how much, etc? I like it!
That was a nice car, all George Riley multi head and side cover. It ran the Race of Gentlemen, had front brakes. looks like a Connecticut plate on the trailer. Bob
I am going to use 21 inch model a wheels on my car. The front will use a model a axle so easy there. I will just bolt to the model a hubs. I have the rear figured out as well. I am keeping the model t rear axle and will make my own adapter to bolt model a wheels to bolt on model t hubs. More on those latter. But the biggest problem I have is the fact that I don’t like the look of the 21 inch model a wheel! I am using them for there tall size and narrow tire that will look best on a t that is lowered but not lowered a lot like the Aldrich roadster. No way I can afford buffalo or early Dayton or pasco or simplex accessory wheels as they are super expensive these days! My solution is an old one! I will cover the wheels with something done in expensive cars and early racing car from the teens and 20s. I will make aluminum disc covers. Most of the disc from this era were spun like a modern moon disc. A moon disc wouldn’t really fit my application so I’d have to make my own. Unfortunately again I can’t spin large sheet of aluminum and having that done is also out of a model t enthusiasts budget. All until I found a car which they built aluminum cones overlapping on itself and riveted. So I set out to see if it’s possible for myself to make some for a model a wheel. So far I have perfected my templates. It took many many tries as there are three dimensions in which to accommodate in precision but it is possible. Now I can order up some aluminum. I also made a rear disc to hide wheel completely. The rear will just be made of sheet steel to keep costs down and painted semi gloss black. The disc will be held to the wheel with a carriage bolts passing through the front and through to the rear disc. It will be held in place with spring tension and easy to remove nut. Here is the inspiration and the final templates.
I finally own a real steel ford roadster. With guitarguy and bigcheese we unboxed and moved the new roadster into its forever home. It will need more patches than I hoped and all new wood but for a guy in Massachusetts it’s as solid as oak compared to what most model t projects I see around here are! More pics to follow as I break it down make repairs and begin building the wood structure back up once I build a good work height stand for my chassis to attach to.
For sure. I have the insulation just need to get off my ass about it. I just hate insulating, miserable and itchy but worth it! Here are a few more pics of the day. After we had a nice lunch out! We need more guys into super early modified cars in this area!
Dave, Thank You for a great lunch, your hospitality, and generosity with your old parts. It was great seeing you after a couple of years, I had fun having a part in this. It is very apparent our projects have a lot in common. Did you sit in it and make car noises yet? BigCheese(Dave), it was great meeting you. You really need to get started on yours. I think we all had fun today for a few hours.
A couple of ridiculously small stills from Dancing Lady, a 1933 film featuring everybody and their brother (including Joan Crawford, seen here) and this gowwed-up T on a shortened wheelbase.
Notice both "Speedy Aunt Molly" and the Texaco truck have similar Sky Chief signs on the door. Seems to have been The Thing circa 1938-'40.
The Jalopy Journal
