I’ve been searching old posts for some time. I am doing the Gambino taildragger on my 50 styleline. I’ve talked to Alex a few times on the phone and although he never says he minds the call, I hate bothering someone too much. There’s a lot of links and photos of the notch and 4link install, but I’m wondering about the wheel tub replacement. To get the 50 to lay out, the tubs have to be raised or replaced. What’s the best route to go? Do most guys just cut them out completely? Anyone here have pics from their wheel tub replacement? Just looking for ideas as I don’t have a lot of sheet metal tools. Here’s a photo of my tire topped out on the wheel tub. I need about 3 more inches of room. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I got a '51 chevy I'm working on but it's NOT gonna be laying frame I'm trying to go traditional with this build so I'll be lowering the back a different way but in your case I'd say if the tires don't clear remove the tubs from the trunk neatly then see how much clearance you got laid out you don't need the newest tools in the industry to make replacement tubs Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I feel like all the ones you see that are laying frame have the trunk floor and wheel wells cut out Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Ones I have seen, folks cut the wheel tubs at the base around the floor, move them up and sheet back down to orig floor structure. You can cut them completely out and put trailer fenders in that are cut down if that is what you want also. I suppose depending on the arc of the tire vs tub, you could just cut a few inches above floor line and move that up with new sheet metal... Then there are the guys who cut them out and never replace... This one shows the trailer fender option... most do it cause its easy and the fenders are not all caked with coating. I saw a pic where someone cut out just the tops of the fender tubs where the tires were hitting to gain another inch, but you need 3 so that wont work. shorter tire?
Thanks for the feedback. I removed the tubs completely. They’re so caked inside n out with tar like coating, I’ll definitely go back with something new. Going to leave as much of the trunk pan as possible. I’m pretty sure I can use the factory gas tank straps/location if I just remove between the notches. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Tire likely won’t go this high, but I have clearance now!! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Looks like you have it nailed! I have used the stock wheel wells and cut them out to add a strip of metal to make the difference of the tire. If that makes sense. For me that isn’t that bad of a job to knock out and it looks better after then trailer fenders in my opinion
Nice work man... You can have the stocks blasted and that will get that rubber crap off if you wanted to try that also...
I did the same thing as PBR40 on my 54 years ago. The only real pain was all the spot welds on the bracing attached to the wheel wells... I will also say it made all the difference in the world. well worth the time.
also I cut the braces out completely and re radiused the inner panel and just welded the wheel well to that panel.
Not a fan of the broken suspension laying frame look but I guess some guys like them to look the same way they did when they found the out in a field. I'd rather see a custom sitting at a traditional stance and then have the ability to either lift up for clearance or to maintain the stance when carrying stuff in the trunk or passengers. That said trailer fenders would no doubt be the simple way to get it done if you aren't equipped to shape your own
mine wasnt bagged, it was 3" springs and 4" blocks with 6.70's and very much needed to be raised as they barked everytime I went over a bridge or around a curve and that was with zero interior aside from a front seat.
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