I need of measurements of axle end of bone. Looking for general O.D. (up and down of "C" end). Also, the portion the perch bolt that runs thru the bone that sandwiches the axle. Is the top and bottom equal in thickness? Why one may ask? I have to idea what bones are on the project now. All I know is they are not Ford. Extra long perch bolts don't help either.
I don't need to know what they are (they are split). I'm just going to machine them and put new countersink at work so perch bolts will work. What ever they are it's very thick as to what (Ford did) I see on-line. They fit axle fine and caster is good. Not doing (buying) another set.
Can’t post a photo? That’s OK, just take a perch and nut to work with you and machine away all the stuff in the counterbores that makes the perch shanks not long enough. Once the perch and nut will fit then I expect you will have to mill the top of the upper part of the yoke because it will be too tall for the perch to work properly. You mentioned that the ‘bones fit the axle, it sounds like your axle has 2 1/4” perch bosses and you have a ‘37-‘48 split wishbone. A photo would show that you probably have later split ‘bones that had the spring hanger cut off.
The reason I say they are not Ford. I was at Early Fords in San Dimas yesterday. My girlfriend showed them a photo from her phone. They said it wasn't Ford. Leaving to see Big Boy Locomotive run. When we get back I"ll have her transfer photo over.
Well they either are going to fit your axle or they aren't going to fit your axle. I've got what are a probably a pair of Speedway split bones out in the garage somewhere if I can find the that I bought to go with the SoCal drophave the ped axle for my 31. The aftermarket ones usually have the desired added caster built in rather than having to modify them for more caster. By "not Ford" the early Ford guys may have meant that they weren't "original looking Ford"
It is a 2 1/4" axle. My frustration is I have zero experience with A's, 32's, and or prior or after those year Fords. Now add in prior work that pisses me off. Well, you guy's know the feeling.
When you said your perches were too short I expected your ‘bones were the later spring in front as your photo shows. I can’t see why you were told by Early Fords that they were not Ford. The second photo shows a ‘32 split ‘bone and the yoke measures 3 1/4” outside dimension, with the depth of the 60* countersink at 3/8”, both top and bottom. The first photo is of a Speedway hairpin bracket that is 3 1/2” outside, with the same depth of countersink. The S/W has an extra 1/8” length in the top and bottom where the shank of the perch passes through accounting for the length being + 1/4”. A long perch works with the Speedway bracket even if a shock bracket is added. You will need to mill the top of your split ‘bone to a 3 1/4” dim. but you cannot mill all the way across the forging since the oval tube is welded there.
^^^^^ A quick measurement this morning tells me I'll need to remove .400 from the top. That will still leave me .750 to .730 of material left up top. The lower measure's .600 and will be left alone. All this just to be able to get a set of these to fit. Other wise perch bolts would be fine if not using them. Just use conical nut's then.
Just found this in the classifieds here. This is what I'm working with. Only difference is spring mounts were cut off before I got to this project. Link to add > https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/nos-37-40-ford-front-wishbone-78-3405.1128269/
^^^^^ Not really. Do to caster angle if I went all the way to the bone it's self I would cut into it. Will machine part way straight then radius up.
Cut the top to the same thickness as the bottom. You’ll have to recut the taper for the spring perch. That’s what I did on my Model A using the later wishbone. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You pic in post 13 shows a 37-40 wishbone. The opening for the axle is 2.25" like a Model A.'32-'36 axles are 2".
@Fordors @Mr48chev @Deuce Lover nearing home stretch. One last question. Never seen how wishbone go onto axle from the factory. Never worked on them either but I see an issue that I think requires shims. The opening on the bones yoke measures 2.320" with no minus measurements any where. Good sign that tells me they haven't been over torqued and become distorted. Now to question. Should there be a shim of proper thickness to take up slack? My brain say's yes.
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