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Hot Rods Project parts value help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Barbarian, Oct 13, 2019.

  1. Barbarian
    Joined: May 5, 2019
    Posts: 569

    Barbarian
    Member
    from New Jersey

    I know of someone getting rid of various model a parts, wondering what it’s all worth. Model A frame, I think a coupester cowl?(see image), hood, grille shell(looks repro?), headlights with bracket. Some non-model a stuff included that I’d probably sell off: 272 y block running motor, c4 trans, 8” rear, some random bench seat. I could probably get it all for $500. I figure for that I can’t get hurt? Even if I sell off everything but the frame I should be able to easily recoup my money?

    Ultimate goal is to build a 28-29 roadster pickup so I’d look for a new cowl/body.

    I’ve been into mopar muscle cars for awhile but have always loved model a’s. Lurked in here for awhile. I don’t know a lot about them right now but looking to get into a project with my boy and learn. Thanks in advance for the help.
     
  2. Barbarian
    Joined: May 5, 2019
    Posts: 569

    Barbarian
    Member
    from New Jersey

    Photo of what I’m inquiring about
     

    Attached Files:

  3. choptop40
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 5,114

    choptop40
    Member

    the yblock runner is definitely worth the 500.00 for the lot...think about keeping it , it runs and its bad ass..
     
    Boneyard51 likes this.
  4. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 3,278

    Corn Fed
    Member

    At $500, you wouldnt be getting much of a deal. A 272 is not a desirable Y-block so it doesnt really have much value and might be hard to resell. And none of the other parts are very big ticket items. But if you got the time and space, give it a shot.
     

  5. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 6,442

    Boneyard51
    Member

    Is the C-4 hooked up to the Y- block? If so, that would have value, if done properly.





    Bones
     
  6. Does the number on the title match the number on the frame?

    Charlie Stephens
     
  7. Barbarian
    Joined: May 5, 2019
    Posts: 569

    Barbarian
    Member
    from New Jersey

    No title - I’d have to figure that out as well
     
  8. Barbarian
    Joined: May 5, 2019
    Posts: 569

    Barbarian
    Member
    from New Jersey

    I also just got a line on a model a frame, 30-31 roadster cowl and doors. Guy wants 1,000 for it all. Cowl looks complete and solid, doors need some work on the inner structure. Going to take a look tomorrow, a lot closer to what I want in the end and no bs of having to store/sell parts I don’t want.

    If all is solid, is a 30-31 roadster cowl, doors and frame worth 1,000?
     
  9. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 9,517

    5window
    Member

    Back to Charlie's question: does it have a title? You don't say where you live, but getting a title in many states can be a real PIA. I'd work on that answer before I'd start buying frames and such. If you don't have a lot of fabricating skills or a lot of time to invest learning, you'd be better off buying something more complete. JMTC
     
    H380 likes this.
  10. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 9,517

    5window
    Member

    Oh, and if you do buy it, you might want to double check that the doors are right for the cowl.
     
  11. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,027

    19Fordy
    Member

    Sounds like you are buying a "problem project".
    272's are undesirable and anything without a title is just parts.
    Save your $500 and move on.
     
    da34guy likes this.
  12. Barbarian
    Joined: May 5, 2019
    Posts: 569

    Barbarian
    Member
    from New Jersey

    I agree. I’m going to take a look at this roadster cowl nearby, may be able to grab the cowl for $3-400 and I’ll hold onto it while I figure out a plan.
     
  13. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,027

    19Fordy
    Member

    Don't buy anything unless you first have a plan.
    Sounds like $$$ is burning a hole in your pocket. Buying parts at $300-400 each is not
    the way to go. Will cost you a fortune and still have no title.
    Slow down, save up more dough and buy a model A project that
    has a title and is "all there". Buy the most complete car you can find and you will save $$ in the long run. Peruse these vehicles.
    https://cars.oodle.com/all_makes-model_a/for-sale/trucks/
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2019
    5window likes this.
  14. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 7,348

    stanlow69
    Member Emeritus

    Where are you located. There is a roadster pickup in the HAMB classifieds for 7900. Minnesota. Looks like a running and complete project.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  15. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,408

    alchemy
    Member

    A nice straight frame is worth at least $100 (I've seen them for $200 commonly). The gas tank if semi-solid is worth $100 (which you will probably need if you buy a Brookville body). The grille (original) is worth maybe $100 if not cracked up. The C4 is worth maybe $100 if nice shape. The 8" is worth at least $75. The cowl band is worth at least $50. The dash rail is worth at least $25. So then the 272 is free.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  16. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,027

    19Fordy
    Member

    The 272 isn't free. once you start rebuilding it and trying to use it
    you will quickly spend what you thought you were saving. Nothing is FREE.
     
  17. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,408

    alchemy
    Member

    He said the 272 was a running engine. I'd give it a try. Why not? If he wants more power later, a 312 will bolt into the same slot.
     
  18. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,027

    19Fordy
    Member

    Y-Blocks are heavy engines. Too heavy for a model A. Bad choice.
     
  19. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    There is an infinite amount of wisdom in the first paragraph of his post.
    Buying a project vehicle with a good clear title is a real life saver in the long run.
    HAVE a plan.
    Type up or save of the net some generic bills of sale forms that you can fill in the blanks and have sellers sign when you buy ANY Major part.
    Start a 3 ring binder with page savers to place those bills of sale in. Photos taken when you bought the part don't hurt your cause either .
    A pack of dividers to section off the papers for each major section of the car keeps it organized and saves fumbling.
    Save the wrecking yard receipts. in the file.
    Save the receipts for part you buy in the file.
    If you bought a donor rig for the engine, trans rear or other major parts and then sold it for scrap make a copy of the title and have that with the paperwork from the scrap yard that shows how you got rid of the hulk. Shows you legally own that engine, end of discussion.
    It's better to be over documented than have the Duh factor when an inspector starts where you got major parts.
    If you claim you can't let your wife or significant other find out what you spent, you can't afford it in the first place.

    I've got one of those binders for every project I have (which is too many) The last one I ran though inspection answered just about every question the inspector had and when he did ask one question I just opened the book to the page that had the answer.
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2019
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  20. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,412

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    First, good call on walking away from that initial group of parts. Reselling them was a break-even prospect that would have sucked energy and enthusiasm away from your ultimate goal of building a roadster pickup (RPU).

    Second, if in fact you have a line on a solid set of roadster cowl and doors, they would be well bought at $300-500. But you should do some research to make sure you can identify a true roadster cowl.

    I notice in your first post you misidentify that as a coupster cowl. This tells me you are new to these cars and not familiar with all the variants. I suggest you study some pictures of roadster cowls before you buy one. Pay particular attention to the little ears that the w/s stanchions attach to. The roadster cowl should have those. You don't want to inadvertently buy a coupster--a closed car cowl that has had the windshield cut off.

    Spend some time here doing research. It will pay off.
     
  21. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 3,278

    Corn Fed
    Member

    Yep, bad choice.. Y-blocks are too heavy for an A. I guess after 15 years of haulin' ass down the road I should pull this boat anchor out and shove a Chevy in there. :rolleyes:
    4.JPG
     
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  22. Barbarian
    Joined: May 5, 2019
    Posts: 569

    Barbarian
    Member
    from New Jersey


    Thank you, I appreciate your feedback. Been trying to do as much reading as I can using the search but obviously still a ton to learn. Attached are a few pics of the cowl and doors I’m going to look at tomorrow. I believe they are 30-31 roadster?
     

    Attached Files:

    ClarkH likes this.
  23. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 3,278

    Corn Fed
    Member

    Yep. Those are 30-31 Roadster. The doors don't look too bad either.
     
  24. Wow! Just don't let my A roadster know about that. It's had a Cad in it for 50+ years and they're even heavier than a Y-block!

    And by the way... the average 272 can be made into a 292 with a boring bar.
     
    williebill likes this.
  25. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,412

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yes, '30-'31 roadster. Now that's a starting point. Good luck on making a deal. Let us know how it goes.

    The engine decision comes later. Lot's of good options. You being a Mopar guy, maybe a baby hemi. :D
     
  26. Barbarian
    Joined: May 5, 2019
    Posts: 569

    Barbarian
    Member
    from New Jersey


    I have a 318 sitting in my garage that got swapped out for a 440. But highly doubt I’ll go down that road with starter location and all that fun in fitment.

    Thanks all for chiming in. Guy wants 500 for the cowl and 500 for the doors, will throw in the frame. Going to try to get it cheaper than that. Hopefully cash talks.

    If this works out, I’ll start looking for a rolling chassis with a title. Seems a few of them around in the 1k range.
     
  27. Barbarian
    Joined: May 5, 2019
    Posts: 569

    Barbarian
    Member
    from New Jersey

    Got some more pictures of the doors, going to check it all out this evening. Inside structure of one of the doors is hacked up, guy sounds like he is sticking to 500 firm on them. Are they worth it? I'm debating walking away from the doors.
     

    Attached Files:

  28. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 3,278

    Corn Fed
    Member

    If the bottoms of the doors aren't rusted out, they are worth the $500. I've definitely seen worse hacking...that wouldn't scare me away from them.
    If ya don't want the doors, you might as well not get the cowl either.
     
    ClarkH likes this.
  29. We used to be able to buy parts one at a time and build a car. That day is past. Start with a complete or at least 90% complete car. Spend the money up front, it will pay off. Get in the habit of planning the whole project on paper and you will understand where you are going and hopefully avoid money pits. Just my opinion, other opinions may very.

    Charlie Stephens
     
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  30. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,412

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hey there @Barbarian. Look, without knowing your budget, timeframe and such, it's hard to give advice. But what the hell, I'm willing to think outloud while watching the ballgame, and you can take it for what it's worth.

    From what I see (online pics are always tricky), $1K seems like a fair price for that cowl, doors and frame. Not a screaming deal, but fair. Also, I see a couple split wishbone ends in the pic--is a front axel assembly also part of the deal? That might help tip the scales. Them being local to you is a bonus (btw, you should indicate your location in your profile).

    If I wanted to build an RPU and had the money and space, I'd probably buy those parts to keep my options open. Then I'd keep looking. @Charlie Stephens is right in saying the best approach by far is to find a complete RPU as your starting point (they are very desirable and somewhat hard to find). If you find one (and can afford it), then these parts become spares or trade goods or you sell them.

    However, what you're more likely to find is a running, titled (very important) closed car (Tudor, Fordor) that you can convert into an RPU using these parts. It's a big undertaking--lots to acqurie and/or fabricate. So you've got to be honest with your self in terms of skill level and interest.

    Me, I'd embrace it as a challenge. I did something similar with my speedster--trust me, if I can do it, you can. But fair warning, it was seven years before my car was on the road. You might not have that kind of time. On the othe hand, your skills might be greater than mine (it's not a high bar :D) which would speed the process.

    Again, the price seems OK to me. Others may disagree. Question is whether having them would be motivation, or a hinderance. Only you can answer that. No harm in walking away if it's not right. There's always another deal to be had.

    Good luck to you--and when you do eventually get started, don't hesitate to post a build thread!
     
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