Mine came with wheels and you can see them in the background of the pictures in my last post. It's great to move it around the garage but the only problem I have is the lift is just high enough it won't roll through my garage door. Mine also came with a jack tray which is a real bonus.
My father did the hole in the ceiling as well. Worked out really well, able to lift to full height with a regular lift.
I have had three shops at separate homes over the years, 10' ceilings, two with raftered roofs and one with trussed roof. On both I remodeled the roof members to build a coffer to allow the cars to lift all the way up. Proper structural design, worked perfectly. Here are a couple shots of my current (and likely last) one. PS. I LOVE the spray foam insulation. I put in a 23,000btu window AC unit and it keeps the 1700sqft cool in 100F weather.
I don't mean to be critical, but with the wide span you have between trusses, I would want more support for that one truss. You are in Texas, and probably don't get much snow, but I don't think what you have is really strong enough. I would put one piece 2x6s on both side of the truss and run bolts thru them and the truss. Then I would put two (one piece)2x6s crossways from the trusses on each side to help support that center truss. Again, not trying to criticize what looks what looks like a nicely done shop, but I'd sure hate to see those boards harm your car. That's a really large area that's being supported.
I tend to agree with ekimneirbo. Around here that set up would give a building inspector a heart attack. The paperwork I've gotten with trusses is very specific about no cutting allowed without the approval of the truss engineer. Cutting out the bottom chord defeats the design of the truss. In my shop I ran a ridge board from side truss to side truss and nailed properly sized rafters to the trusses and across the bay. I used the cross ties for the ceiling. What are the dimensions of your shop and what kind of lighting are you using and how many? The place looks like daylight.
Anyone have any experience with these??? https://www.titanramps.com/accessor...MItuaXr6OY5QIVDrbICh2xFQVHEAQYBiABEgJNE_D_BwE
Am I bad because my dad had me dig out for a pit 40+ years ago? I'd like a lift just to pick the vehicle up a few feet to do brakes and such while I'm on a stool. But that'd be a luxury.
Wow, haven't seen one in many years, used to have one at a gas station I worked out. Damned powerful. Kinda quick/touchy to raise/lower, but decent valving would cure that...heck, maybe we used to much pressure to it.
True, if that was a heavy roof and it was a big snow area, this mod would be questionable. However this is a sheet metal roof and we don't get much snow. Shop is what Texas calls a 'pole barn' - 8"x8" buried posts @ every 10' or so with a metal cladding walls and ceilings. There is a rim of dual 2"x8"s around the top, all the trusses do is sit on those and hold up the light roof. As you see, there is no ceiling load either. I did the calcs and it is plenty strong enuf for this application. Way over designed for this stress mode. I am more concerned with a tornado lifting the roof off!! Don't get many of those in Bakersfield CA, my home town I moved from in January. As I said above, have done this to 3 shops over about 25 yrs w/zero problems, but 2 of those are in Calif where there is no weather except sunshine! And even if it does crash, that gives me another project to do in retirement!! All good. This section of the shop is about 1400sqft. Total shop is 1600sqft but I walled off an end to put in my paint booth. That isn't insulated since it has air inlet filters and big exhaust fan. Lighting is 2 cheapie 4' fluorescent fixtures from Home Depot on every other truss. 12 fixtures @ ~$17 each.
No, my 10k Bend Pack needs only 4” of concrete. That’s the norm for homeowner type lifts. The only manufacturer that I know of that requires more is Mohawk, but they don’t chase the homeowner or hobbyist market.
Mine asked for 5" but my slab is at least that thick. More important spec is no nearby expansion joints.
Couldn't you weld the bottom plate to a much bigger and thicker plate with more fasteners to spread the force out over a larger area, to get by with say a 3" thick slab
Probably but I would hesitate to mess with the engineering on something thats holding a 2 ton car over my head. Also the depth of the concrete is important to hold the back anchors in the floor. Phil
With a four post lift, I don't think anything more that the usual 4" is needed as they often aren't even bolted to the floor. With a two post, its probably nice to have a thicker floor, but most people have to use what they have already. Some of the two posts have a bar across the top between the two uprights that helps a little with pulling inward but does nothing longways. If someone wanted to add some safety, they could always add brackets from the uprights and attach them to the trusses. Lot of additional leverage gained that way. If someone wants to make deeper anchors, they can use a core drill to cut thru the floor and down into the dirt. Then pour more concrete in the hole with a stud embedded in that. Using a larger plate also can help. We did that with the support posts for an overhead crane we built in my son's shop. We had 2 4" steel galvanized posts from an industrial chain link fence that had plates about 8" sq (or so). Welded them to larger thicker plates my son had, then bolted them to the floor. Basically the posts hold an I beam up and we put some box tube braces in to support the corners. The long rails of the crane give it support from falling sideways, so the plates basically just keep it located and it stands on its own.
Making a deeper pad under the posts is of dubious value. Understand that the tipping resistance is actually a function of the surface area of the slab, more so than the depth.
I have been here not too far from you for 40 plus years, One inch of snow 3or 4 times in 40 years ,I think you are fine, plus if you get one or two inches it will be gone by afternoon
Incidentally, I used to depend on my 1940s cast aluminum Black & Decker 1/2" drill to shove concrete bits thru. It spins at about 60rpm and has enuf power to drill to the center of the earth. I sat on it and let it grind thru. It has no ground plug terminal and no electrical insulation for its all metal body except the cord sheath. A real MAN's drill!! For my latest hoist I figured I would try a gimmicky hammer drill. What a difference!! Those things really work. I bought a Harbor Freight $17, 1/2" hammer drill thinking I would end up buying at least a couple more to finish the 10 3/4" holes for my hoist. To my surprise that drill quickly knocked out all 10 and is still like new. Whodathunkit?
That's why I moved to Texas and not Idaho to get out of the People's Republik of Kalifornia!! Don't do snow.
The Jalopy Journal
