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Hot Rods No spark on motor

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bruce Fischer, Oct 8, 2019.

  1. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,915

    BJR
    Member

    I just pulled that off the internet, thought it was correct, but maybe not?
     
  2. I always make sure to clean a new point set before installing. I've had that happen to me. Once was enough. :mad:
     
    Bruce Fischer likes this.
  3. Random thoughts here to any future googlers

    Ground ground ground ...I've had lots of mystery no starts due to what I assumed was good ground but was not.
    This car I'm working on got converted to electric wipers by the po ....ran
    Poorly especially when it rained..turns out The po tapped the positive coil lead to power the wipers. No bueno. That needs full 12v.
    I was told never sand or file points...but I do anyway.
     
    Bruce Fischer and Driver50x like this.
  4. I kept a sheet of 400 grit paper in the top of my box, clamp a set of points on it, drag them through and hit them with carb cleaner, good to go!
     
  5. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,624

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    ^^^^ I do the same. Professional since 1957. Points have had 'coating' on them since 1964. First saw that coating when getting sets from our local jobber in Los Gatos, CA.
     
  6. We were having a problem with spark and it turned out to be a bad (brand spanking new ) Coil. HRP
     
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  7. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 5,263

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    If you think there's a coating on the points you could use denatured alcohol to clean them , abrading the surface shortens the service life just like. Just like sandblasting spark plugs.
     
    Bruce Fischer likes this.
  8. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,624

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Yes, after polishing the blades of Bowies to 6,000 grit...I dare say I've been painfully abrasive to those points!
    But alcohol? Once they've had alcohol, they're gonna develop a taste for it, and demand it on call!:eek:
     
    Hnstray and Bruce Fischer like this.
  9. Up date on the 318 motor. Finally got the firing order on the wires right still runs rough but when you put you hand on the dist.{like you were going to move it for timing}it runs better. Friend said he thinks it may need a dist. The dist is bolted down tight and grounded. May have to spring for one. Bruce.
     
    BJR and upspirate like this.
  10. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 5,263

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    You've become an engine faith healer , laying hands on sick engine ..
     
  11. 2OLD2FAST Well I don't know about that.LOL.Bruce.
     
    Truck64 likes this.
  12. Are you pushing pulling , twisting the cap to make it run better or just touching it?

    There may be just enough crud or flash in the caps lip to not be firmly seated. And it may be a new cap with just enough out of tolerance to need a hand.

    It could be the wires are tossing voltage and touching them stops it.
     
    Bruce Fischer likes this.
  13. Some day,,,,
    Every Guy working on points ignitions will check the negative side (-) of the coil for a flashing ground while cranking FIRST!!

    Points closed light on
    Points open light off
    Cranking the light will flash.
    With your coating on the points they never made contact and you never had a ground on the negative side of the coil.

    Check that first because if you have the flashing ground you’ve proven
    1 power to coil,
    2 power to coil while cranking,
    3 the points are functional
    4 the rotor shaft is spinning ( might have to look for it on the bench)
    5 the coil is functioning

    If you’ve got no flashing light then go back thru 1-5 and prove them or flush the problem out.
     
  14.  
  15. Up date on the 318 motor. It wasnt the dist. It was a crap condenser. I stuck the old one back in and reset the points and the motor runs strong and smooth now. Thanks guys. Bruce.
     
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  16. Oilguy
    Joined: Jun 28, 2011
    Posts: 663

    Oilguy
    Member

    Bruce: I experienced that exact same thing last summer. Spent 5 months trying to figure out why it would not run. Removed the cap and rotor, turned on the ignition and opened the points with a screw driver and it looked like an arc welder when I opened the points. Put in the old condenser and it took right off. The new condenser was an AC-Delco unit supposedly, with no ID anywhere on it. Caused me a lot of grief plus a ride home on a haulback wrecker one day.
     
    Bruce Fischer likes this.

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