I'm planning on running my 30 model A no fenders. Going to use the original chassis, which was missing the front cross member on purchase. My research tells me almost everyone uses a four inch drop axle. Which front cross member is best? I see Speedway has one that has a two inch drop and also that some use a 32 cross member. I'm thinking it would be best to get one that has the caster built in. That way I assume you would weld in level in the frame. I'm thinking that with a two inch drop in the cross and a four inch drop axle that would give me the correct ride height in front, then I could build my coil over rear suspension to the correct ride height. Correct being the stance and height I prefer. Next purchase will the front cross member, dont want to make mistake.
Now remember that if you use the 2" dropped cross member you need to make sure you have proper room between the axle and bottom of the front frame rails. Also it's up to you to decide where you want the front to set, what someone else thinks is too low might be perfect for you. Also take into account oil pan ground clearance.
If you will be using an A radiator it may not fit with dropped cross member; not much clearance between lower tank and cross member, especially with stock A u-bolts and crank bushing/spring retainer. I would check radiator fit first, especially if you'll be welding the cross member in.
When you buy your front cross member, be aware that most (if not all?) of the reproduction ones out there are made to be used on a boxed frame. So it will not slide all the way into your original rails like the stock one did.
You should use an original 30 31 front cross member. They are easy to find and not expensive and will give you the correct caster. Don't use a 28 29 as the radiator mounts are different.
As several others state, use an original 30-31, not difficult to find. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
There are 30-31 front crossmembers for sale in the HAMB classifieds right now. I have a stack of them at home for future projects. They beat repro stuff by a mile. Some of the repros might be a little bit lower, but the stock crossmember will be stronger with the full flange on the back edge.
My frame came without a front cross member. I plan on boxing the frame, so will I know where to weld in 30-31 member and will it have the caster indented in member?
Are there rivet holes still evident on the frame? Those can be used to line up the crossmember. And it will have the same caster built into it that many of the repro crossmembers seem to have. If you buy an original crossmember, weld it in, then box around it you will make sure the full strength is distributed to the outer portions of the rails instead of just the inner boxing plates. And your radiator mounting pads will be in the right spot. Foolproof, right?
IMO... Get a 1928 truck crossmember, they used a car's dimensions but made them with a noticeably thicker metal... you can tell them from swapmeet distance by the [2] 3/8" rivet heads on both sides of the U bolt set up... the [2] rivets held a re-enforcing spacer strap under the crossmember... cars don't have the riveted straps...
But a 28 crossmember will not have the right height mount pads for the radiator. Will place it too high and make the grille and hood fit bad.
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