Hi All... I am in the process of finishing my 1933 5W Coupe. This car was purchased by my grandfather in 1955 for $18. He drove it to his barn in Southeast MO and it sat there until the late 70's when he brought it to his house and began working on it. All he was able to accomplish before his death was to get the frame cleaned up and painted and to gather quite a few parts for the car. He did replace the floor and lower qtr panels but since he was an amateur, it was not well done. He passed away in 2006 and in 2012, I was able to build a shop and go get the car and bring it down to Louisiana where I live. Here is how the car looked when I picked it up Since 2012 I have had the metal work done properly, and had it painted. This is how it looks today: The flathead is a 1935 that runs good. What I would like to do is build a traditional Hotrod out of it. I am converting to 12 volts, going with Juice brakes and lowering the car. I am thinking 4" in the front and 2" in the back. My question is what is the best way to go about doing all of this? I have reached out to Richard Lacy about brakes, but I need some help with front and rear suspension. I Like the look of the I beam front axle with the split wishbone style arms. Do I need to box the frame? Can I keep the steering stock? (The steering feels good with little if any play) I have been reading all of the threads I can find on this subject but would appreciate any suggestions on my specific build. Thanks in advance. Brad
If you're keeping the flathead and 3 speed DO NOT split the wishbones, the way it is designed by Ford is superior to frame mounted radius rods. That modification is only necessary when the drive line is altered or a different engine with larger oil pan is installed. Boxing the frame is also unnecessary for even a pepped up flathead, the x brace is plenty strong to handle the torsional load. If the steering is OK I'd leave it alone, if it wears out a good upgrade is an F1 steering gear. Drop axle in front and a flattened rear crossmember should lower it the amount you want. Keep it simple as possible, the more things you change then more other issues will pop up that will need to be addressed to compensate the alterations.
No need to split the bones No need to box the chassis with the flatty You can have the stock front axle dropped. Reversed eye springs and possibly flatten the rear x member. Are ya gonna run fenders? Keep the stock wires. 560 /600 fronts. 720/750rears Super cool car
You got some good advice given already. A dropped Axle should be a bolt in for the direction your headed, and I like that direction. Boxing the frame with your package is wasted time and money. Good job so far, Gramps would be proud.
I am running full fenders. Thanks for the input guys! I'll keep you all posted on my progress. For now I'm keeping the stock Flatty and 3 Spd. I'd like to eventually build one of the later model flatheads and possibly mate it to a T5. That is down the road. It has been so long that I am ready to finish this thing and have some fun driving it. I just don't want to rush and not do it right. Anthony, Sorry for the noob question, but can you tell me what you mean by 560 fronts and 720 rears?
I like what I see, and I like full fenders. I also agree with the advice above regarding not splitting the wishbones or boxing the frame. The only change I would make, would be to buy a later, 24 stud engine to have as a replacement of the 21 stud engine you are working with. Bob
J-Jock, Thats the plan but I figured I'd run this one for now and get a 24 stud block and build it as time and money allowed.
Amazing and heart felt. You just don’t make this stuff up !!!!! Keep all of this close to your heart.
It’s a bias tire size reference It’s the standard “big and little” tired ran on trad style hotrods I think I should have said 750s for a 16 inch wire wheel I would fit fenders, purchase tires then adjust stance.
https://www.cokertire.com/blog/big-and-little-tires/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/big-n-littles-tire-recommendations.761074/
Thanks guys! I have been lurking here for years. Glad I finally decided to join in. Here is a picture of the dash and gauges. The Maroon is the color of the window garnish as well. I am going with the same color for the wheels.
Looking good! Tons of knowledge available here. Guys know what they are talking about. Welcome aboard.
I have a couple more questions... 1. If put a 4" drop in the axle, will I need to modify the steering arm? 2. I have seen bolt on upper shock mounts for tube shocks in the front, does anyone make bolt on mounts for the rear? Brad
So Yes to all your questions. Everything can be bolted on in simple form. These samples were just a Google search away.
What a great story. This brings tears to eyes because I am building a car with my grandson. Your grandfather is looking down and is very proud of you. Please do not do all of the trendy stuff to this car (chopped top, LS motor, aluminum wheels, etc.). You are getting very good advice so far and I like what you are doing. Try to use as much early Ford stuff as you can.
here is a link on how to modify the rear x member http://saltflatsspeedshop.blogspot.com/search/label/1933 Phaeton here is another 33, looks like a model A style rear xmember and a flattened front x member http://saltflatsspeedshop.blogspot.com/search/label/1933 3Window
Very valid question. For me and knowing your running Fenders I'd fully finish the car as is. Once you drive the car and get the spring setteled down measure the space between the Top of the tire to the Fender. Take that number subtract a minimum of 2". That's the total amount of Drop you can get away with. You may find a 4" is to much drop,,,, if there is such a thing. Prime example, 4.5" drop and 1/2" above tires. Looks way Kool,, can't drive it.