Projects 26 T Roadster Pick Up build Thread

Man that’s gotta make it feel totally different!

Glad you posted about that choke cable. I looked it up and now I know what I’m doing about that choke cable I cussed this morning lol

 

Nope, steel, ceramic coated along with the rest of the exhaust system.

 

9 and 1/2 years!

 

^^ So far. JW

 

And very well done!

 

Looks fantastic


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He’s about right on track, Rocky’s 34 and oldsboy’s T sedan both took around that long if I recall correctly.

I mean what’s the rush, soon as it’s done he’s gotta figure out what he’s building next

 

Exhaust system is stunning as is the rest of this fine build.

 

That exhaust looks fantastic Larry.

 

In preparation to mount the doors I had to finish and paint my spring loaded self retractable door check straps.

Took them apart and painted them and then because when I first installed them they were temporarily mounted with sheet metal screws, I installed 10-32 rivnuts so I could mount them with 10-32 SS machine screws.

I also made some Teflon washers for smooth rattle free operation.

Details ! And they’ll be hidden behind the kick panels

But, I’ll be sure that my doors won’t be hitting the headers

 

Hmmm yeah. I’m probably going to have to steal that idea too.

Certainly getting your moneys worth out of that rivnut tool!

 

Yeah that’s for sure and this is the second one, I wore one out previously.

The hand one is good up to 1/4” and then I’ve got a long handled tool for 5/16” and 3/8” sizes .

There are rivnuts all over this hot rod.

 

Looking at my project today I was wondering how I would mount some stuff. Rivnuts is the word. Thanks for the update and I will still wait patiently for the next one

 

Larry, soon you will run out of things you can do to this Hot Rod and will have to start it and go for a drive. JW

 

I went ahead with installing all the removable floor panels transmission tunnel as well.

Spent some time running a tap through all of the rivnuts to clean out the paint and make sure the threads were all clean because before I did the paint I tacked all the rivnuts on the bottom so there will never be any that spin.

I used some 1/8”x 3/4” closed cell foam tape to seal it all up.

 

I like how a section can come off by itself. Did you do anything special to put the foam on?

I put some similar product on for weather stripping but the adhesive that was in it was garbage after a year or two. Thinking some rubber cement should do the trick

 

So, what are you going to use for insulation, to prevent heat soak through the floor panels, cooking you inside the cab? Given any thought to that yet?

 

The foam strip is a good industrial quality product with adhesive on one side that is really aggressive.
You just peel the backing off and stick it on.

Once it’s on there’s no peeling it off.

For insulation I’m not sure what I’ll do yet, I do have some ideas.
Whatever it is will have to be easy to remove in order to remove the floor panels for service needs.

 

Looking good, (as usual ) Larry!!
I feel no heat at all on mine. JW

 

Saw this detail shot the other day and thought of you.

 

@Tim, that makes for a really clean install. I bet @Blue One is considering a redo...

 

It’s nice that’s true but I’ll stick with my version

 

Remarkable! Mine was pretty neat 40 years ago but it's a rat's nest now. Things don't always change for the better.

 

@Blue One, yours looks pretty fine, too.

 

So thinking on what to do for a radiator overflow-recovery tank I started looking around.

I found that OTB makes a very nice one, cast aluminum with ribs like my valve covers and other parts including the air filters I’ll be using.

The problem was that it would be too long to fit in the space I have.

So I contacted them and they offered to sell me one in the raw not welded or finished at all.

Once I got it I ended up shortening it by about 1 1/2”.
A little off the top and the bottom.

Then I broke out my TIG and welded it up.

I fabricated a little bracket that mounts it using the bolts that hold the rad shroud.

I also spun it on my little belt sander to flatten the tops of the ribs and then polished them up similar to the valve covers.

I’m just waiting for an Amazon delivery of an Imperial 1/4”tube bender so that I can hard line plumb it using 1/4” NICopp
tubing with inverted flare ends.

 

Well doesn't that look the cats whiskers, very nice, BUT would be even better if the mounting bracket was black? JW

 

That's pretty damned sharp, you seem to find all of the cool stuff for this build! I agree, it would look great with the bracket painted black.

 

Did you weld in the valley or on the fin? I’m always curious when people section stuff with ribs how they went about it

 

The bracket will be black, just waiting until I get it plumbed as I anticipate welding another couple of little tabs onto it for a pair of made for you clamps to hold the hard line just like I’ve done on the rest of the car.

Thanks Dick
See above

I ended up not having to weld between the ribs at all.
If you cut carefully you ended up with a perfect end to work with.

Cutting the top with the cap just above the final rib then cutting two ribs off worked perfectly.

I cut 2 ribs off the top and one off the bottom.

So I guess in answer to your question you end up welding in the valley which becomes the new end.

Keep in mind I just worked with the ends and never actually sectioned anything out of the middle which would be difficult.

 

For you guys who wanted the bracket to be black.

The finished overflow/recovery tank installed and plumbed with 1/4” ni cop.