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Projects Hood/radiator support rods,,thoughts

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by whitewallwilly, Oct 5, 2019.

  1. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 208

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Hi Guys,
    I'm on the final stages of building a 1931 Model A Coupe,build thread is under heading

    " Model A coupe build from down under New Zealand "

    I have to make some radiator support rods to get around the oil bath air cleaner,otherwise I cant remove the air cleaner housing from the carb without removing the two support bars that go across the top of it,,I've also had to narrow up the soldered front support bracket so the rods have clearance past the top radiator hose,as seen in the pics,
    I'm thinking a couple of stainless rods bent round, shaped to follow the outside diameter of the air cleaner housing,,,with a stainless plate welded to the rods as shown in the mock up,, ,,at the front to tie the rods together,,, with some stepped holes,
    I would polish the bars
    I have mocked this up with welding wire ,,and looked at it every time I walk past the cars,still undecided weather I like it or not
    Has anyone got any pics of similar setups on similar cars,,or ideas/thoughts/suggestions
    Thanks in advance
    Pete IMG_6454.jpg IMG_6453.jpg IMG_6451.jpg T
     
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  2. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    :rolleyes:... @whitewallwilly...first off Cool Hotrod coming together there.

    While your Support looks awesome. I have some input on how a gently bent strut acts on a Model A. Myself I am reconsidering upgrading to straight struts...Why?...I believe bends contribute to flexing...I see it when I'm driving...the Shell shakes/flexes at certain speeds...

    I notice another flex point or weakness in my setup that may be linked to blame...that would be the rad to shell attach...it is just how the shell tabs to the rad...but bent or curved bars allow or compound the situation...

    The gusset will help but not sure about the curved section...

    I have to mount the rear bar ATTACH points higher to give the right angle and clear the Carb Scoops...

    I really like the bent bar but think it's a weak link...I've put up with it for 3+ yrs...

    I'll post the link to the thread when I find it...

    0_20180917_191755.jpg

    :rolleyes:...love the look..
    Just not sure it's the best choice...

    I will give high praise to the Walker Rad that delivers strength and performance under the Ole Jalopies periodic flexsisodes...:confused:...:D

    Here's that thread link below...

    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/made-some-radiator-support-rods.1107494/

     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2019
    whitewallwilly likes this.
  3. On the 30 coupe i had, mine were bowed some but flexed alot. I had to go with straight ones to get rid of the flex.
     
  4. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,285

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    I’d suggest running two support rods separated on each side of the air cleaner and with two separate Brkts on the radiator.
     
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  5. Petejoe has your answer^^^^^^
     
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  6. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,879

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    I've thought about this myself.

    I'm going to run a tunnel ram on my 440 and the only real solution I can find is to widen the mounting positions on both ends of the rods, moving the firewall side out towards the corners of the cowl. Then see how close I can put the shell side of the rods together and still clear the tunnel ram.

    Also thought of bending but using bigger rods and building small gussets in the bends.

    Curious to see what others are trying.
     
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  7. Inked Monkey
    Joined: Apr 19, 2011
    Posts: 1,834

    Inked Monkey
    Member

    @Stogy Can you run just a single support rod instead of two? My 27 only has one, straight down the middle
     
    Stogy likes this.
  8. Where the design of your radiator support looks unique it does look slightly flimsy, with the lower radiator supports being bolted down using the radiator support springs the radiator is designed to rock a little making it less likely to do damage and leak.

    The top rods are heavier to keep the top of the tank rigid, this is a area you really don't need to move around. HRP

    [​IMG]
     
  9. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

    Have built 2 '31's, used straight rods & triangle f'wrd bkt. In HRP's pic above, possibly yours, Moving the firewall mt. holes outward toward corners will help.
     
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  10. I really like your design!
    I understand the others concern about vibration,,,,but this is just a mock-up.

    If you go with a stronger rod such as Danny did,,,I believe it would be very sturdy.

    I think the plate in the middle adds a cool factor similar to some of the old design ideas.
    It might even start some more to trying different things,,,,,and besides,,,if you don’t like it ,,you can always change it.

    I like it myself.

    Oh yes,,,,your engine layout looks great. You really did good work.
    I like the heater hose routing also.
    I really like this!

    Tommy
     
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  11. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    Put a flathead in it!!!
     
  12. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,065

    nunattax
    Member
    from IRELAND

    exactly............ just checked in my 38 chevy.an equalateral triange is the ideal or near as you can .my bars are 36" apart at the firewall tubes are 32"long and 2 1/2" apart at the radiator.this is a rigid set up.front mounts are on the rad support not the rad.used stainless tube and tapped internally.shimmed to adjust.stainless can be mirror polished if u prefer but I powdercoated satin black.think tube is more rigid than solid bar
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2019
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  13. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 208

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Thanks for your imput,,, I understand exactly what your saying,, I was going to use 3/8" stainless Rod,, I see your bars look to be of similar size,
    Cheers
    Pete
     
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  14. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 208

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Thanks,
     
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  15. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 208

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Thanks for you imput, I've been thinking all night about other possibilities,so it was cool to check the HAMB this morning to see the replies,I get the point about flex and and vibration,I guess in this situation the radiator will move around a little , and I think that the original style has a good triangulation strength factor to it,with 4 separate rod mount points,,I'm going to think a bit more,
    Maybe go back to the original style, straight rods, but joined at the front,then when I want to remove the air cleaner housingthen its only a matter of loosening off two rear nuts,and un do 1 front nut to remove the bar,couple of minutes work,, the I've minimised the flex in the rods and still got reasonable strength IMG_0159.JPG
     
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  16. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 208

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Haha, thanks for that,had a little chuckle with your reply,,dearly love to have a flathead but
    doing the best I can with what I got,,,,,really like to build a model A Roadster one day, my choice of motor would be a GMC inline 6
    Cheers
    Pete
     
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  17. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 9,550

    5window
    Member

    It's not much of a deal to R and R the support rods. How often will you really need to service your air cleaner? The air cleaner is cool-could you convert it to a "longer interval for service' paper filter?
     
  18. Good thinking,,,,things like this are always a work in progress.

    Also,,,I think the use of the oil bath is completely cool !!!
    The routing of the temp capillary tube is thoughtful as well.
    Good job.

    Tommy
     
  19. nochop
    Joined: Nov 13, 2005
    Posts: 3,837

    nochop
    Member
    from norcal

    Careful, radiators are expensive.......
     
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  20. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 208

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Righto,,, thinking about going this way,,, welded a mockup deal,,,, takes 2 minutes to remove tthe Rod to access the air cleaner,minimal flex good triangulation,,an clears the top of the air cleaner and top hose,,,,an I'm liking it better than the curved prototype,,,,,,will build it out of 5/16 or 3/8 stainless ,,,unless my over thinking procrastinating mind thinks otherwise, IMG_6459.jpg IMG_6457.jpg IMG_6456.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

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  21. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,936

    LM14
    Member Emeritus
    from Iowa

    Stole these 2 pictures from another thread here just now. Looks like his style of bracing would cure a lot of the movement and looks nice, too.

    SPark

    z1.jpg z2.jpg
     
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  22. Hey Willy,
    I like that better,,,it reminds me of the old Ford V8 emblems!

    How often do you service an oil bath anyway?

    Tommy
     
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  23. Flathead Dave
    Joined: Mar 21, 2014
    Posts: 3,968

    Flathead Dave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from So. Cal.

    Be quiet...I'm thoughting...
     
  24. error404
    Joined: Dec 11, 2012
    Posts: 384

    error404
    Member
    from CA

    the wider apart the bars are at the firewall, the more stable they will be
     
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  25. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Long term plan is to run straight rods to repositioned cowl brackets...straight up from the ones below...I've checked and it's doable even with the current Frogs Mouth Scoops...that will give a more rigid triangulation.

    I did upgrade the original 1/4" rods to 5/16 which removed some flex but not enough as the bends allow flex to still occur...
     
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  26. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not trying to hijack the thread but here are pics that illustrate how to determine in a crude way that there are possibilities...in my case the cowl supports will be maximized in the top of the cowl, with repositions still looking okay and perhaps improving flex to a lesser more tolerable degree...

    We must remember with Hotrod mods and with repop or original cowls locations will have to be found while keeping in mind stresses...

    0_20180523_211511.jpg

    0_20180523_220526.jpg

    0_20180523_220540.jpg

    @Inked Monkey I really think having 2 Supports is very much needed and really is part of the OEM tried and trusted theme...

    What generally sets the flexing of the Rad and shell off is road conditions which in many places is abysmal to say the least.

    I am also of the opinion that the lack of a hood removes much of the support putting way more stress onto the remaining structure supporting the rad...

    It still works but is what it is and it's just part of living the Hotrod Lifestyle...
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2019
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  27. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 12,375

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I had to bend the left one to clear the fuel lines. I bent the right side to match because I have issues.
    upload_2019-10-5_20-55-53.png
    These are extra long supports that I bent over the trailer hitch on my parts getter, chopped them and cut new threads for the adjusters.
     
  28. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Your also running a Tied down fitted hood and that would add stability and assist what is lost through angled or curved support bars...

    I should have and am considering a hood and a few other things to make it at least capable of handling the odd shower...
     
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  29. mcsfabrication
    Joined: Nov 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,057

    mcsfabrication
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Why don't you make the hold down for the air cleaner a stud that unscrews out of the carb? You'll only have to lift the air cleaner off the carb and not get up over the stud.
     
  30. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,219

    clem
    Member

    ^^^^^^ This !
     

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