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Projects DRAG SNAKE "Vintage Terror!"

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Deuced Up!, Oct 13, 2017.

  1. Deuced Up!
    Joined: Feb 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,206

    Deuced Up!
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    We hit the shop early this morning to assess what we needed for a throttle cable. To be honest I knew it had a bell in the middle of the intake that opened all four units but I really had no idea exactly what we needed. But the guys at Borla were thinking ahead a bit (for a change) as it looked like it was set up for Lokar style cable and even had a built in mount just aft of it.

    So we I unscrewed the fitting that was in the mount and took it to town to see what we could find. Unfortunately my performance shop (which is making a few changes right now) had nothing on the shelf to offer. So I checked out the VW performance shop just down the road...but no go. Then just for grins we swung through Pep Boys Performance Parts (which is going out of business). Believe it or not they had a 36" universal Lokar unit on the shelf. AND...it was 40% off! We decided for that price we would give it a go and MAKE it work some how or another.

    Resized_20190928_195433.jpeg
    So here is the finished product and by the way that thing you are looking at is not a bell pull it is officially called a Capstan...and you can thank early sailing ships for it. A capstan is a vertical-axled rotating machine developed for use on sailing ships to multiply the pulling force of seamen when hauling ropes, cables, and hawsers. The principle is similar to that of the windlass, which has a horizontal axle.
    You learn something new everyday! LOL

    Anyway looking at the above photo we had several issues to overcome. First off the cable we really needed was designed for or at least called an LS throttle body unit. It has a special end that fits in the hole of the "Capstan" and the cable pulls on it, turns the capstan and opens all of the throttles. However our discounted cable was for an old school carb set up. We had several options but while playing around with it, I accidentally discovered a red ball on one end.

    cable end.jpg
    On what most would consider the pedal end of this cable is a factory ball that holds the above clevis device (which honestly I already had big plans for inside at the pedal). However after looking at the size of the ball and the hole in the capstan I gave it a try and guess what, the ball fits perfectly. You can actually see in the first photo in there doing its job.

    20190928_201612.jpg
    The next issue was the Borla mount that would have fit the other end of the Lokar cable perfectly. However the end we were relegated to use now had a different thread and would not screw it.
    So....we just unscrewed the threaded aluminum mount, drilled it out, reinstalled it, slid the end of the braided housing fitting through and installed one of the adjuster nuts on the other side...easy breezy!

    pedal.jpg

    1. Well there is the "carb" end of the cable laugh out loud. It is mounted on the top of a simple lever we created out of scrap plate steel, It is about an 1/8" thick.
    2. I came up with the lever idea and sketched it out this morning on a napkin at breakfast. Tilton sells something similar for this unit but they want $165 for it and I figure they already have enough of my money. LOL
    3. There are several 5/16" holes in the body of the accelerator pedal. Honestly I think they are there for looks more than anything. But I slid a couple of 5/16" bolts through a couple of them. Then I made a press pattern on piece of paper and transferred the marks to our lever. Then we drilled a couple of holes to match in the bottom of it and test fitted all pieces involved. Originally we were about 3/4" too tall and the top of the lever hit the firewall. We made quick adjustment and everything cleared etc.
    4. We needed the lever and the cable out and away from the pedal face so I cut a couple of bushing from some steel pipe to extend it.
    5. Finally we tested it to make sure we could achieve full throttle. We could. Then I put a throttle stop in and adjusted until it stopped the throttle opening movement at less than a 1/16th" from wide open. I mean you nearly need the feeler gauges to check it but it does stop it and keeps it from applying access pressure to the cable system etc. I am very happy with the process, it works and looks great.

    Finally while I was in there, I re-hooked up both the brakes and the clutch master cylinder rods to their respective pedals. That was a pain in the backside but it is done. Hopefully with some fluid and some bleeding action, the little car might make it first trip out of the shop tomorrow on its own power!
     
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  2. AldeanFan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2014
    Posts: 892

    AldeanFan

    Great work as usual, love your problem solving.
    Looking forward to seeing the first drive video.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  3. Deuced Up!
    Joined: Feb 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,206

    Deuced Up!
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well sorry boys and girls. No Cobra drive today. I got tangled up changing seats out in Dad's coupe and burned the whole day.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2019
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  4. 0NE BAD 51 MERC
    Joined: Nov 12, 2010
    Posts: 1,782

    0NE BAD 51 MERC
    Member

    Well what was he doing while you where changing seat's? He can't beat on a little English car? Slacker! ;) lol We can wait a little longer or we can just send James "The Engine Guy " over there! lol Larry
     
  5. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,592

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Only trip planed is going east, and it is to have a ford engine looked at, but then it's to the track to help with a chevy 2.:)
     
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  6. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,592

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Larry, if I get a chance to meet up with you at a track, I,ll be more than happy to give you a good lessen. ;)
     
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  7. Tickety Boo
    Joined: Feb 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,610

    Tickety Boo
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    East Bound and Down,
    Loaded up and Truck n,
    Saltys is gonna do what they say can't be done
    Get a Ford to run :D:D

    Sorry Larry, it rimes ;)
     
  8. Deuced Up!
    Joined: Feb 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,206

    Deuced Up!
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Okay after playing around several stupid ideas to try and short cut a neutral safety switch (and after getting in there this weekend and seeing I have enough space to do it) I simply bit the bullet and snagged a traditional unit. This is a heavy duty version.
    788-sw-42.jpg
     
  9. Deuced Up!
    Joined: Feb 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,206

    Deuced Up!
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Also on tap for this weekend is installing this Mildoon Crankcase evac system. We have the perfect spot for it just after the turnouts down the side. I think we are going to need it.
    697-85700.jpg
     
  10. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 3,904

    RodStRace
    Member

    Do your research on the evac systems.
    The basic one shown only works when there is enough exhaust flow to create a vacuum. At idle, low load and decel, it does not draw. I've also seen it gum up everything behind the exhaust outlet (like the tires in your case :eek:) on an older engine.
    The only other problem with these basic systems is hose routing. The hose has to reach from the valve cover breather to under the car next to the headers. This almost always means in a tight, very hot area with rubber hose. Since your particular application is 10 # of stuff in a 5# bag, well....

    Of course, the other options are electric or belt driven pumps, both of which will also require space...
     
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  11. m.kozlowski
    Joined: Nov 2, 2011
    Posts: 141

    m.kozlowski
    Member

    Standard, OEM type crancase ventillation system usually has valve built in, so at idle, when vacuum in inlet manifold is high, there is no vacuum to suck gases from crankcase. It would be a intake leak. So at idle usually you don't have PCV either, as in that exhaust type PCV. But RodStRace's point about gumming everything is a valid point. It is too nice car :)
     
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  12. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,592

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    He has a IR intake, no where to get manifold vacuum.
     
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  13. You misunderstand how a PVC system works. At most engine speeds including idle, the PVC system is applying a constant vacuum to the crankcase to draw off any vapors and put them into the intake tract where they will be burned. To a certain degree, the PVC valve meters how much of a vacuum 'leak' there is. But as an engine changes RPM, the crankcase can go from being pressurized to actually drawing a vacuum at certain RPMs. The PCV valve is designed to close under crankcase vacuum to prevent possibly-explosive fuel mixture being drawn into the crankcase. Malfunctioning PCV valves are the cause of oil pans and valve covers being blown off a motor when they fail to close.

    As to this being an IR intake, most currently available Weber-style manifolds have a 'common plenum' connected to the runners via a small hole drilled into each runner. This is done for a vacuum source for not only a PVC system but also power brakes. Borla notes this plenum as a connection point for a MAP sensor among other things.
     
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  14. rooman
    Joined: Sep 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,045

    rooman
    Member

    Steve, it is a PCV (Pollution Control Valve)----PVC is a form of plastic;)

    Roo
     
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  15. ididntdoit1960
    Joined: Dec 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,030

    ididntdoit1960
    Member
    from Western MA

    I always thought it was PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation)
     
  16. My bad.... but you knew what I meant! LOLOL...
     
  17. For real?
     
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  18. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,592

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Doesn't sound like anything I would want on my performance engine. A vacuum pump would be the ticket.
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2019
  19. Deuced Up!
    Joined: Feb 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,206

    Deuced Up!
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Last edited: Oct 3, 2019
  20. Deuced Up!
    Joined: Feb 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,206

    Deuced Up!
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just a quick response here to a personal message last night: NO, I did not pay $300 for a special Cobra version of a $50 crankcase evac system. LMAO

    And by the way, you boys are taking said system way too seriously. LOL. There is a ton of miss-information out there on this subject. First of all when it comes to PCV (as defined by Rooman "Pollution Control Valve") he is not far off. Of course the acronym is incorrect but the function not so much. That stupid system really does regulate the pollution of oil and crankcase vapors. It keeps it from being expelled into the environment by shoving it back through the intake. In my opinion, not a good idea on many levels.

    As for PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) that is all this is about. Simply giving the breather that might be found on a given valve cover a little assistance. Are there advantages to it? Yes I am sure there is some horsepower gain on the top end. Studies have certainly proved it but in this case we are only talking about nominal gains. Now in a killer all out race engine built in advance with a vacuum pump system in mind I have seen reports of up to 20 percent hp gains. But don't forget those are motors that are pretty much ran wide open 90 percent of the time. They are also pulled down and rebuilt on a regular basis. Stick a vacuum pump on a daily driver and you will probably be doing the same thing in a 1000 miles or so! Not a good idea unless you have a lifetime supply of rings and run a machine shop with a propensity to tear your engine down at least once between oil changes.

    But the header system using exhaust flowing across an angled tube will never pull that kind of vacuum. It simply aids in evacuating the pressure that can build up there. FYI, that pressure is going to go somewhere whether you give it an exit opportunity or not. It will exit through the valve cover vent and haze the engine compartment over time. It can begin to seep through gaskets and along with it an annoying little oil leak, etc. etc. This system simply gives it a place to go and a bit of encouragement to do so.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2019
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  21. Tickety Boo
    Joined: Feb 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,610

    Tickety Boo
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Never put a vacuum gauge on it, but on my header evac system there is a definite draw that you can feel when putting you thumb over the hose end, (even at idle)
     
  22. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 8,442

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    With a mechanically induced Vacuum monitored at 12 inches max the ring seal is vastly improved and windage is reduced big time so much so that evolved windage systems, trays, scrapers are not a necessity since at more than 12 inches Vac the wrist pins will run dry..So hp gains are the benifit from better ring seal and reduced windage; not worried about pollution or sludge build up as engine maintenance is religiously kept up..At this point not much vac can be utilized as the crankshaft front and rear seals have to be put in backwards to prevent passing large amounts of air; surprising where and how many Vac leaks will appear..
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2019
  23. m.kozlowski
    Joined: Nov 2, 2011
    Posts: 141

    m.kozlowski
    Member

    I stand by my opinion stated earlier and will still say that you're wrong. But i will shut up for now, that is not a thread for this. Sorry for messing that a bit.

     
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  24. Deuced Up!
    Joined: Feb 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,206

    Deuced Up!
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Honestly the real reason I am putting them on is to show off the cobra graphics I created. After our trip to the Meltdowns a year so ago when half the folks looking at the car didn't know what it was....I figure I need all the logos I can muster! Right? ...LMAO

    upload_2019-10-4_7-17-10.png
     
  25. Deuced Up!
    Joined: Feb 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,206

    Deuced Up!
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That was baffling to me. I swear if I had been anywhere near my shop the second the day the car would have had one of those Windshield Eyebrow Graphics I despise on it!

    Its A Cobra.jpg
    All kidding aside I do hate those things. It kills me when the Vette guys have them. You know CORVETTE across the top of the glass. And apparently my irk for them has trickled down to my daughter. We were at a cruise-in last Friday night and a C3 Vette rolls in with one. She said, "Holy cow there's a Corvette. Thank goodness it had decal on the windshield as I would have bet money that was a Buick!" I about fell out of my chair. LOL. That's my girl!
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2019
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  26. Deuced Up!
    Joined: Feb 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,206

    Deuced Up!
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    James you will appreciate this. I measured the empty dipstick hole up front that was giving us a bit of gurgling oil. As one would expect with this car, there are about 10 sizes of dipstick tubes and numerous routing options etc. I wanted to make sure I got it right the first time or at least the second or third so I called Ford Motorsports. I said from my measurements it appears to be a 3/8" diameter hole correct? He said no it is .375". LMAO!

    Regardless, it showed up the day before yesterday. It was a pain in the backside to install (being as tight and well hidden as it was but I finally got the stupid thing pressed in there). Proud of myself, I slid the dipstick in place. However, it only went in a couple of inches. I was thinking what in the devil is going on with this stupid thing. I tried putting it in harder (as you can imagine) LOL! I tried twisting it a bit (you know as I slid it in) but no matter what I did it stopped dead in the same spot every time no where near in place.

    I sat down and was looking at the side of the engine through the wheel well and it hit me. This is not a normal 302/351 oil pan set up. Because we opted in the very beginning to swap the pan placement around and make it a rear sump. So that relegated the factory dipstick hole, in question, useless. When I tried to slide the stupid thing in, it hit bottom in the shallow area in the front of the pan! Of course knowing this would happen, Ford installed a screw in style dipstick port in the rear driver's side of the pan. I pointed it out to Dad who just shook his head. Par for the course.

    I said it is going to be a pain in the backside to get that stupid thing back out of there. Dad said I say we just cut the dipstick short so it fits the tube only and stick it in place. I said there is no way I am going to have THREE dipsticks in the car (counting me)! LOL

    Yesterday, I picked up a .375 Dorman expansion plug to drive in that little hole.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2019
  27. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,592

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

  28. Deuced Up!
    Joined: Feb 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,206

    Deuced Up!
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks. LOL
     
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  29. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,592

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    You should give me a call before you go on a spending spree. :D
     
  30. Deuced Up!
    Joined: Feb 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,206

    Deuced Up!
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hell, I have three shelves full of "should've called James parts!" LOL
     

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