I'm almost afraid to even ask this because to me it doesn't sound possible but..................... Last weekend I detailed to the max my 331 Hemi, taking all afternoon to do so. I used a 110 volt drill motor and small buffing pad on the aluminum dual 4bbl intake getting up next to the module. Got it finished, looking like I wanted it. Started it okay, backed it in the garage and that was that. Next morning it wouldn't even turn over. I've had to replace the module once this summer already and so I'm wondering if this one is now tits up also. Could a magnetic field from the drill kill the module? I've checked for loose wires, from the detailing work, finding none. I have strong lights, strong fuel pump so I have battery. I didn't work anything else that should cause a "no power" condition that I can think of. I also checked the ignition fuse and it is good. I'm aware of the Pandoras box that this question posses and the potential to look pretty stupid, but that's never stopped me before. Guess I just order a new module and hope that's the gremlin in the coupe. Still interested in opinions though. When I find this little %$#$ asshole I'll update to what it was. I'll wait on ordering a new module until I hear what you guys have to say on that.
Not sure how the module would affect the ability to turn the engine over. I'd be looking at ignition switch/starter button, solenoid/wiring and in that area.
First you must be a member of The Knights of The Mystic Sea Lodge to access this information concerning drill motor resonating frequencies and their effect on modules. Lippy
First clarify " will not turn over" .....as pointed out if it the starter won't crank it's not ignition related....and no, I personally have never heard of and don't see as possible that a 110 colt drill near a module can have any effect.....if it's an ignition issue ( cranks but will not fire) did you use any water ?....... DODGEes like water less than CATS!...remove distributor cap and make sure it's dry
There are no bad questions, usually the tech here is pretty good. From what you wrote, engine will not turn over. I just went through a weird electrical problem (took awhile to figure out) that turned out to be a battery problem, 1 year old battery, ( did not have it checked right away) suggest you check yours, I mean take it where they charge it and pull it down, then you know if its good, as I had lights, electric fuel pump running, but no hot start, cooled down would start, volts checked good, battery under load junk, weirdest part of my adventure was, warranted new battery from Walmart, put the new one in, same problem, took that one, had it checked, junk, got refund, purchased a different brand, all is well. Good Luck ! Remember, IF it has Tits or Wheels, At some point it will be a PIA, LOL
First off I want to apologize for my smart ass remark. Well, not really, but I agree with wicarnut. I would start at the source, the battery , connections ect...then work my way from there. Lippy
Ignorance is as Ignorance does. You were/are spot on, TT II. Lokar shifter and NSS were at odds with each other and after some negotiation and correction decided to work together. The two have succumb to my direction with a new and better adjustment arrangement and heavy handed tool use, and have sworn not to commit such a grievous offence in the future. I thought for sure, the starter not engaging to turn motor over was a result of my sloppy old man clumsiness in making the motor shiny and purdy somehow. Thanks TT 2 you've made my day.......truly............. and to all who chose to chip in thank you also and,........... lippy....................no offense taken. I really did expect some off the wall comment(s), after asking the most ignorant question of the week.
Boom! Everything answered. This is why y'all are my favorite car "club". Nick Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I am happy to learn that it was just the neutral safety switch getting knocked out of adjustment. I think that sometimes seeing the humourous side of an issue, can stop a person from torching the offending vehicle or part. A couple of weeks ago, I had a potential meltdown and fire in an O/T vehicle resulting from a solenoid shorting out internally. It was a scary situation, and my wife was shocked to see me running in the other direction when she told me that there was smoke emanating from every orifice of the truck. When I had disconnected the ground cable and could finally breathe again, I explained to her that I knew that the first thing I was going to have to do, would be to disconnect the ground cable before the truck caught fire. I had to take the dash apart, check every wire, and look over the schematic to chase down the problem, the shorted solenoid that was meant for a factory dual battery installation. So, don't feel that your question was not important enough to post, but that the solution was simple and not threatening to life or property. Sooner or later, everyone that plays with cars is going to have a problem that is a brain buster that has a simple solution. Bob
Well if it was a Ford in a Ford with a Ford Automatic those of us who drove 60's and 70's Fords with Automatics would have figured that having to hold the shifter just so to get the engine to crank was part of the deal. Any no start condition is a process of elimination though. Starting with cranks over/doesn't crank over.
The only stupid question is the one that is not asked. What is stupid to one makes good sense to another.
The beauty of the HAMB. Many disparate sets of eyes to view a problem. Many times we are too close to our own problems to apply the logic we would apply to a problem brought to us. Once, many years ago, I spent 1/2 an hour on a no start problem before I discovered that I hadn't put the gearshift into park.
The Jalopy Journal
