I've been working on my first real hot rod build which was formally John Wheeler's 3 Window Coupe. I recently removed all the mustang II stuff that had been welded onto the frame, as I want this to be a traditional build and return the car to it's original glory days which was 1958. Included with the purchase of the car was a complete 1936 front axle, wishbone, spring etc. I was able to place the original front cross-member in the correct location by simply lining it up with the holes in the frame. I have not yet bolted, riveted, or welded it in place yet. I bolted the front spring onto the cross-member to get an idea of where the axle will sit so I can take some measurements. Up to this point I had assumed that back in the day this car must have run with split wishbones because he ran the car with a 331 Cadillac motor and 3-speed Lasalle trans. I have the original Cad motor and trans which I will be installing. One of the problems I'm seeing right off the bat is if I cut the wishbone to 40 1/2 inches it's gonna be too long and interfere with the running boards, not to mention I don't see any evidence of anything being bolted to the frame in that area. Do you think he just made the wishbone shorter? The second problem is simpler I guess and that is if I cut the wishbone and install it on the frame the spring perch at the front will be at a different angle for the spring so I imagine heating that up and bending it to line up with the front spring would be the answer to that. Sorry it took so long to get to my last question but do I even need to split the wishbone? Once again I'll be running this with a Cad motor and Lasalle trans and full fenders. I'd like to get some thoughts on this. How do you think Wheeler set this up back in 1958? I'll try to attach some pics. Thanks! Doug
My 40 is running a 1949 331 caddy, I did not split my wishbone, but I am running the stock 40 ford trans
Follow the evidence. If the axle that came with the car is the one that came out of the car you've got your answer. Also, if there's no evidence of wishbone mounts on the frame you've got more evidence that the wishbone was uncut. But...putting the Cad and LaSalle into the car as it was done back in the day may not be your best option. My advice would be to mock the '36 front suspension into the car with uncut wishbones and see what happens when you lower the engine/transmission into the hole. If it fits without interference and the engine isn't too high I'd say go with it. If it won't then you've no choice but to split the bones. Once you start mocking the car together the original construction technique will be obvious. Just look for the evidence. Good luck, sounds like a great project.
I would like to take this opportunity to thank you for saving an old ford hotrod by cutting out that awful mustang 2 ifs
If you are forced to split the wishbones, open them up to the bare minimum. Moving them out to the edge of the frame creates an awful twisting effect on the suspension components. The previous post had good advice. "follow the evidence" Oh, and congratulations on removing the Pinto front end.
Just spread them apart enough to clear the trans, you don’t need to go all the way out to the frame rails. Much like what they do with the chassis engineering mount for splitting on a 35-40 Ford. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If you find you need to split the wishbone look at Pete and Jakes mounting plate meant for a 350 trans.It bolts on in the center of the fame,and mounts the split bones in the center....not the frame rails.May be adaptable to what you want to do.
My old 36 Ford Truck ran an Olds with a Lasalle trans in it and no split bones for many many years. Now the Truck did not have the Motor/Trans in it when I got it so I have no idea what it took to do that but I would say it can be done without splitting the bones. It did have the torque tube saddle carved up a bit, beyond that looked to be pretty simple to do. A test fit is the best place to start.
Thanks very much for all the good advice. The motor is at the engine builder and the trans is getting a rebuild so once I get that back I’ll see where everything lines up and take it from there. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
If it helps, here's a shot up the skirt of my 36 with a 331 and a T5. Like others have said, try to stuff it in there before cutting anything, and then see where the interference is. I'm using the chassis engineering mount spoken about by @31Apickup. Worked well for my application.
I didn't split the wishbones in the 37 , Caddy with Muncie 4 speed fit .When I pull the trans. have to take it out up top. I think the car handles much better through corners . I get through the corners faster than the guys with the Mustang suspensions .
I made my own Cmbr out of 1/4" x 6" plate. welded lugs on the bottom to accommodate 7 degree tie rod ends, made deep enough to use the 3/4 ton ford ends, 3/4" Speedway threaded bungs welded to the wishbones, split just enough to clear the Trans.
It is fine, I don't drive it like I am at the drag strip though. I have about 10,000 trouble free miles on it...
Another option is to use a Model A yoke with your 35 wishbone. It is wider and will change the angle of the spring perches and they will need to be heated to correct. Model A wishbones are cheap and maybe you can find the yoke someeone cut off the split them. Compare 35 to model A yoke.