so far yes, I do enjoy the car as is, I would like more power and speed without having to put a new 360 motor in so I am researching ways to do this without taking out the flathead 6. I am open to suggestions.
Funny you mentioned a 360- that is what i did when i had my 33ply 4-door. I got tired of the slow speed and i did not regret the 360.
Got Harlean out for some sun today, getting her ready to go to a few shows before she gets some things re-chromed and possibly a drive train rebuild.
The least painful way would be to look for a 218/230. The cost to rebuild your engine is high dollar due to the babbit bearings. The newer 6 won't look exactly like yours (I don't think anyways) but will give you more power without having to do a ton of work. Take a look at the side of your engine bock, does it have semi-exposed cylinders walls? If so it's the same type of engine I have from my '32 Dodge PU. What I'm getting at at is I still have a bellhousing from a 218 and I can take a look and see if it's a match to the original engine, and if my original tranny will bolt up to it...take some of the guess work out of it for you. If you go the 360 route...then new radiator, tranny, rearend (unless you put an egg under your right foot)...you see what I'm getting at? You've got (from what I see) a nice survivor.
The current engine is a 1953 Dodge flat head 6. I would either keep the Flathead 6 which looks similar to the original 33 engine "wish I had that" or rip it out and put a 360/tranny/driveline/rear end in and run a more modern electrical system "which I am leaning towards due to the SOMETIMES start issues I have" it always starts, but sometimes is a Biotch.
Try setting your float a couple 32nd's. Today's stuff expands faster than real gas. It will percolate raw fuel into the intake causing a flooded start condition. Next time you run it check the base of the carb. If it is wet,the float reposition should help. When you do a hot start, slowly push the gas pedal to WOT,then engage the starter. Also pull your spark plugs to see if they are fuel fouled. Clean them or replace them. I have had good luck with AC 45 plugs. Champions these days are bottom rung. If you can't find AC use the autolite equivalent. Also you might want to set your timing via vacuum gauge,as that will take into consideration today's gas and the engines condition better than using the timing marks.
Just wanted to keep this page going on the progress of my 1933 Dodge DP6. took the old girl to a few car shows and cruise nights and she "HARLEAN" won Best Vintage at one and Best of Show at the local Escondido "Cruising Grand". I am convinced that keeping her 100% STOCK is the best way to go with her, I may during the winter take out the engine and rebuild it with some upgrades, but for the rest, the car will look like this for as long as I can keep her this way. see you at the shows, Enjoy.
Hi just seen your post about the tail lights do you still have them thanks Brian ! I haven't been on for a while
Well its been a while since I have updated this post, I moved the build to the AACA site because a lot of those guys have the same car's and know a bunch about the engine. however, here seems to have lots of good conversations with quicker responses. my last post was in May, and now it is September and I have done the following: -Removed rear end and had rebuilt by Oceanside Drive Line in San Diego, CA, now reinstalled -Removed Transmission and replaced with George Asche built 1939 Dodge/Plymouth 3spd with O/D -Clutch, Flywheel,Throw out bearing rebuilt by Well Built Transmission in San Diego, CA -Removed 1953 230 engine and am currently rebuilding in night school engine building class pictures of progress below.
The new transmission looks great, 3 speed with the 6 volt overdrive. I will be installing the transmission onto the engine/bell housing before I install the engine so it all goes in at once.
The engine build is going good as well, I got the engine out and am now rebuilding it at the local community college that I attend for night school. I wanted to learn to build engines, and what better way than to do my own engine. see pictures of before and the progress. I currently am measuring the crank for replacement bearings then will be putting it all back together.
UPDATE: was able to slide hammer out the water jacket in the block which came out in one piece (thankfully). I got the engine in the steam washer for the 1st hour to see how it cleans up and it did come out pretty well. I will be putting it back in the tank on Monday to clean even more. ALSO: I did the measurements on the crank, the crank has been turned (.30 under on Main) (.20 on Connecting Rod's). the only issue I have is that finding .30 under main bearings is going to be hard to find I guess. I might have to have the crank turned .40 under spec to be able to get new bearings or deal with putting the engine back with the bearings that were in it which do not seem to have any issues. as for the connecting rod's, I will get new bearings and polish the crank so that should be an easy step.
yeah man, I was stoked that when it came out it was 1 piece. also, I think I just sourced the .30 main bearings and .20 rod bearings. things are coming together I hope.
update: had to have crank turned .40 over, also had the connecting rod journals .40 over. found all the bearings needed and now that I have used a bore gauge to measure the crank clearances. I need to get the clearances for the rod's tonight. I also got new bearings for the cam which I hope work out. but nothing is easy. tonight to measure the connecting rods and clean block again.
Sactownog, GREAT pics! I have a 33 Dodge DP6 and wanting to put in an OD tranny and 230 flathead just like yours. Do you happen to know the model number of your transmission? Also, I want to make sure I get the right drive shaft (one that was NOT fluid drive). BIG favor, do you happen to know how thick your flywheel flange is on your crankshaft? I still have my 201 and it runs, so I will build this set up while I keep driving the original drive train. THANKS
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