Hey fellas, picked up this nice Meadowbrook from Oregon and shipping it to Hawaii. She did great on the 500 mile run to Seattle, although I feel a little guilty for pushing the flat six over 70mph the whole way. Anyways I’d like to put a dual pot MC with boost in there, but I’m having trouble finding parts. Any idea what might fit with minimal fabrication? Thanks for your 2 cents!
Going to need some more info. 1. Is the brake master cylinder on the firewall or under the floor? 2. What is the bore diameter of the master cylinder? General comments, based on converting a 1959 Ford F250 (on firewall) and a 1962 Volvo PV544 (deep in the engine compartment, facing foreward). In general, match the bore size of the new dual pot master cylinder to the bore size of the original single pot master cylinder. In the case of the F250 (done over 30 years ago - before Al Gore invented the internet), a search of the parts catalog found a 3/4 ton Chevy pickup (approximately 1968 - if memory is working) that used the same sized bore. The bolt pattern (to the firewall) was different, I made an adapter plate out of 1/4" steel. I used an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear brake circuit (the rear brakes wanted to lock first - typical of old pickup trucks) and a 10 PSI check valve on the front brake circuit. On the Volvo, I found a Wilwood dual pot master cylinder with the same bore size, that had 2 remote reservoirs. Installation was much more complicated, as the Volvo was due for new brake lines.
@Byron McMahon .....Very Nice Find!......... and relatively rare. I like the '53/'54 Dodges....have a '53 Diplomat Hardtop
Tough one. The master is the pedal mount and it is in a tough busy area. I built one for a ford dual master. It had a bell crank, bushings and linkages. Sat low too. Not ideal.
I don't know the exact details but to keep the current MC as the pedal mount you do the following. Gut the current MC and leave it in place as the pedal mount. Get a new push rod to run clear through the gutted MC to a new MC mounted behind the original. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That might be your most practical solution. Just make the push rod to the booster/mc extra stout. Step father #2 had a 53 Dodge 4 door back in the 60's and I don't remember the brakes needing a booster though. Not a bad old car but my sister was rough on clutches in it when she started driving it when she got up in high school.
I agree. The stock brakes, if in good operating condition, do not need a booster. The fronts, which do the majority of the braking effort, are twin leading shoe and quite powerful for their size. If you find them not to your liking, a disc brake conversion, with correctly sized M/C and calipers, will also do the job without a booster. Boosters are needed in some applications, but they are also just the automatic ‘go to’ because ‘everybody does it’. In many case, carefully selected components, cylinder bore sizes, drum or disc diameter, etc. yields a well balanced system with good performance and moderate pedal pressure. Ray
Well maybe just a thorough going through of the stock system will be sufficient. I guess I can start by adjusting and bleeding and see where that takes me.
Good idea. However, I will caution you that the Mopar brakes are a bit finicky about adjustment. For that reason and many more, You would be well served to buy a Factory Shop Manual, either original or reprint They are invaluable for maintaining your Dodge. Especially if you are doing your own work, but also for the mechanic you may sometime have occasion to hire who likely will have little or no experience on that era car. Unless, of course, he is an ol' timer like many of us here on the HAMB. Ray
I am updating my 53 Coronet this winter ... so far I have the Scarebird kit for the front ... it allows you to use your stock wheels ECI under floor master cylinder kit for the rear Im using a cherokee XJ axle ... keeping it mopar 3.55 gear ratio will help me keep up in traffic compared to the 3.90 gear set that is under it now you will need to get a new drive shaft made also great info here http://p15-d24.com/forum/4-p15-d24-forum/ https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=64&product_id=97 http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/chrysler_master_assemblies.html Cherokee axle under the rear ... to update rear brakes
What vintage 6t said above this requires only minor fab work. don't know what island you are on but I have this set up on 51 dodge works fine .If you are on big island I could show you. will try to take a pic.
What he said. I used an ECI under floor master, Cherokee rear axle and Rusty Hope front disc kit. No complaints with any of it. http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/chrysler_master_assemblies.html http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/dodge_plymouth_discbrake_conversions.html http://rustyhope.com/site/
I would double check the stock wheels with Scarebird. There have been issues ending with new rims. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Derbydad, Scarebird, ECI, and Cherokee 8 1/4 is my big want for my 48. I have the Scarebird and still on the fence abouth the Cherokee rear end because I cand afford the parts I would have to let go of the money for installation. Conversation with Mark at ECI he says that the S-10 Caliper amd stock brakes are not compatible with master cylinder for my 48, although I found a 49 Dodge with Scarebird, ECI and stock rear end. QUESTIONS TO DEBYDAD: Are you making all of the changes at once. Have you started the rear end swap? What have you finished?
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