What's the saying. No fool like an old fool. I installed a new cam in my 351cleveland using used lifters that looked good. I put stp on the lobes and put 10w30 oil in I started it up and fooled around trying to get it to idle better. shut it off after 10 minutes, to fix a leaking valve cover gasket. I started it up and noticed a loud ticking from the right side valve cover. I. Removed the valve cover and found the third rocker from the front had about 1/8" clearance.so I pulled the cam out and the cam lobe was already worn down. I put that new cam in like I had 20 years ago instead of listening to the advice of people a lot smarter than me. So I put a new cam and lifters in using the cam lube and filling it with Valvoline vr1 oil. Never too old to learn
Used lifters on a new cam is the main problem. The oil type isn't the problem. Letting it idle before the new cam and lifters are broken in could be a problem, but this one never had a chance, at all....
Oil type is very important during new cam break in! New modern oil doesn’t have what it takes for flat tappet cammed engines, especially during break in! Usually racing oils have the additive that will protect the cam and with the break in lube on the cam you should be good. Bones
It's a crap shoot, I've knocked over the egg carton and mixed up lifters and everything survived. But as said you should have kept the Rs up.
Well there you go. There was another recent thread and the guy wanted to reuse lifters on a cam plus he did keep lifters marked wear they went. The old saying " you can pay me now , or you can pay me later" applies. My mindset has always been do it right, right now.
My wallet lives under a black cloud of a curse.I don't even think once about using some parts over.Life as taught me the hard way.
Re using lifters on the SAME cam they were used on before, on the same lobes, is usually not a problem. Installing used lifters on a NEW cam is asking for disaster.
I feel you pain! A few years ago I wiped the lobes on a new cam, never even got the car out of the driveway.
I had one go flat on me years ago, since then I do my first startup with no valve covers, throw some oil, see the lifter spin, install covers and do a minimum 20 minute break in. If it's got much lift, I pretty much rely on hydro and solid rollers. Not an option on many HAMB engines, but if your running a sbc or bbc, I am sold on them.
I was terrified of wiping the cam on my fresh built 283 I just got running in my 39 sedan. I had never done it before, but I figured it was cheap insurance to buy the break in oil. Mine was a new build, so I'm sure it benefited over all from the break in oil. Hell I even packed the oil pump with ISKY Rev lube for cam break in. I figured, lets add some more just in case. Worked like a charm and after an hour break in time, I didn't even need to adjust the solid lifters again.
If I'm using a hotter than stock cam I always remove the inner spring for break-in. Bit of a pain but could save you from wiping out a cam.
Maybe, maybe not. If you don't want trouble, don't try it. If you are trying to piece an engine together for no money, you might get by.
Oils have changed as of late, and the main change in modern engines is the roller tappet, as far as the oil is concerned. The most extreme pressure in the flat tappet cammed engines was at the lifter/cam contact. And it is most extreme at break in! That is why there are things like “ break in oil” and “ cam lube” because oil , new or old, can’t handle the job. Once broke in the extreme pressure becomes less and depending on cam profile and spring rate many oils can be used successfully. I prefer an oil that has a little more EP in than most current oils have. That’s just my preference. But type of oil does make a difference......or there would only be one type of oil! Bones
I've been using generic modern oils that meet the current API specs for years, and haven't had issues. Mostly it seems like religion, the choosing of oils. I'm not religious, so I don't go nuts with expensive oil.
@squirrel I have nothing to ad that has not been covered, but I would like to add how incredibly smug you look in your new profile pic
Getting a Hudson to Pismo Beach, and all dressed up as a wannabe Paul Newman, can make one quite smug.
Learned my lesson on a new crate with a flat tappet cam. Now use Brad Penn 30 weight break in oil on a new motor with a flat tappet cam.
Been using Castrol GTX 10-30 for years with a solid flat tappet cam. Spring pressure are not to radical 130 closed 350 open and have never had a problem. Maybe I'm lucky.
Oh I am pretty well versed in the different types of oil, I just don't believe it is as big of deal as it's made out to be. I run whatever is cheapest at my local Napa store and it works for me. I use moly cam lube on assembly and plain old oil for break in. Lots of people say it can't work, yet it does, for me.
Have wiped out 2 flat tappet cams (no high valve spring pressure) before learning of the new oil formulas with not enough zddp. Now always add ZDDPlus (check out their website), sold here by an Alliance Vendor. A line mechanic also said he was trained to use a cam button to prevent cam walk. Cam walk prevents the lifter from being properly rotated on the cam lobe.
I use a cam button on roller cams, but not on flat tappets...the lobes are ground at an angle, to hold the cam in place. Of course when the radius wears off the lifter face, fun things can happen...
I think Squirrel nailed it in post #20! Oil, types , weight, additive/ no additive........is like religion! Everybody kinda sees it differently. And that’s OK! I listen to several learned people, some here on the HAMB, on matters concerning oil. And I am undecided in several areas concerning oils and lubercation. I listen to the pros, but also have my life experiences to fall back on. Bones
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