Tossed the tins in the hot tank at work. They'll be staying on. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Movin now. OG cam is out. Maybe have this motor in the car before August. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Also got this cool pic. Buddy I bought it from is on the left. This somewhere between Dodge City and SoCal. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Also want to take this opportunity to sah that my son's derby car took 3rd overall in his cub scout pack and 3rd in his class at the Old Baldy Council invitational derby. My car is on the right, built 28 years apart. He beat mine, too. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I haven't been very active on the Dawn Treader lately due to waiting on the heads and Mama's new Dart. But I did just get some historic photos from the previous owner. Out of it's Dodge city barn. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
While I am still waiting on these elusive heads, I need to get productive. I'm going to start plumbing the brakes. I plan on a boosted dual master cylinder with 3/16" stainless lines. The original line was a 1/4". Not sure that it will make any difference. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm getting extremely frustrated and I'm about ready to sell this piece of shit! Ive spent 2 hours working on ONE double flare for the first brakeline. I picked up some 3/16" stainless from Inline Tube. I've gone through three different flaring tools. I've got the flare bar cranked TIGHT and the damn tube just slides down while attempting my bubble flare!! It's chamfered, squared, and deburred. I give up. This car has me at my wit's end every step of the way. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I would not even try to flare stainless without using my hydraulic tool. Two questions: 1. Why stainless and not NiCopp? 2. Why a bubble flare? That tool is for a conventional 45° double flare.
Because I had the stainless from inline. It's a double flare tool. Cheap crappy one. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I mixed the parts and pieces from different tools, annealed the tube, and here's my result. I'm going to finish this one tonight. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Less than 5 minutes on this one. Snap on flare bar, PT anvil, Weatherhead press. That's the combo. The annealing is probably helping as well. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Strongly considering running these backing plates my grandpa had. Too cool. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Summertime is tough for a refrigeration mechanic, but now I'm back at it! Scored those heads finally and installed my brakelines on the rearend. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Do find some F1 or F100 front brake set-ups, they're WAY better then stock (finding shoes, adjusting, everything) especially on a bigger car. Follow my link to my '41 truck, I put on some F100 brakes with pics. As for the master I would go to a dual chamber master with close to the same bore. If your staying with a manual master you might need to make an adapter for the master, I believe someone makes an adapter for a power setup. Here's my '47: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-week-47-ford-dual-pot-master-install.367059/ Also, how does that bronco 9" fit (width and pumpkin wise), I have one and was keeping it for the '47 maybe.
I know this is an older thread but look on here or eBay for and older (as in 50's) tube shock kit and measure for the shocks (compressed and extended), go to Monroes website and find the shock specs that will fit. I used Monroe Matics on my '47, good gas charged shocks might be too stiff (I tried KYB Gas Adjust..too stiff). These bolted right in where the friction shocks go on the frame and I had to drill a hole in the axle for the lower mount.
Disassembly of the 2nd set of 461 heads. Some of the retainers have an H, some have an A. There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason or pattern to where they are on the head. Does it matter where they go back? Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Fresh from the hot tank at work. Now to clean and lap the valves and start putting this turd together. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If the valve springs have shims under them, ( they look like they do) yes, put them back in the same spots and with the same retainers. Some might have checked spring pressure and spring heights when they assembled the heads to make everything match.
I considered this, but some of the shims are beat to oblivion. The rest seem to be the same size. I may just check all the heights on my own. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Here's my neat little setup for checking valve springs. Lunati recommended 98lbs at 1.75" height. I'm at 93 lbs. Close enough. Did some lapping, too. I'll have to do one more round of lapping. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Lapping all done. Just found out that the Jegs SBC seal kit doesn't come with valve stem seals. I guess it'll wait until tomorrow to be be done. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
We had best be setting the engine in place in roughly 8 and a half weeks! Sent from my Infinix X626 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Well, we didn't make the 8 week deadline, but mama and me have been having a ball in her Dart and I had some things I needed to do. But I'm back at it big time now. Sent from my SM-A505U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hand painted with one shot. The metallic is runny as hell and probably would have looked nicer sprayed, but it sure was fun hand painting for an hour. Sent from my SM-A505U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I also washed it. I realized I owned it for 3 years and have never washed it. I don't know that the PO ever did either. It was midnight and 36 degrees, but it had to be done. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app