The first engine repair, is stuck but dismantled. The need is to get the car registered and get it rolling next spring
I'm sorry the English language, is shit, but I'm trying to get something written .... there any tuning parts for the 265 engine ?? exhaust manifold, camshaft or other parts? I've been thinking for that supercharger engine, with more power.....
The 265 is the largest of the 25" long Desoto/Chrysler engines........Earl Edgerton made finned heads and intakes for the 25" engine, also Fenton and Edmonds back in the 50's....the Montana Dodge Boys now do the Edgy stuff......Tom Langdons Stovebolt Engineering also caters for Mopar 6 stuff like copies of the Fenton headers...........suggest you check the P15-D24 Forum as whilst they are Dodge/Plymouth fans they also have guys with 6 cylinder Chryslers there as well........apart from bore & stroke sizes all parts from the 25" engines should swap, ie, intakes, exhaust, .cam, ..valves, timing chain, etc......
Compression is key to power. If you can't score a head ($$$$), have yours milled. Delta Cams will regrind your cam, re-surface your lifters, and treat you right! Give them a call: http://www.deltacam.com/camshaftgrinding.php A Pertronix converter for your distributor should liven things up. Here are the Langdon headers. Cast iron. (No rust out!) https://catalog.ecwid.com/#!/Chrysler-DeSoto-25-Blocks/c/18665938/offset=0&sort=normal
Try Vintage Power Wagons for parts. They have some good deals, like a set of 6 NOS pistons for $75. https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/online-parts-catalog You can do quite a bit to hop up the engine. Mill the head for more compression, dual exhausts, twin carburetors, reground cam. But, the best answer may be a supercharger. Low compression, mildly tuned flathead engines respond very well to supercharging. Total cost is the same or less than a conventional hop up, gives as much power, and does not harm low speed performance. I would suggest rebuilding the engine stock. You may be surprised at how well it performs. It is no race car but will have no trouble keeping up with normal traffic. If you want more power a McCulloch supercharger will give up to 40% more rear wheel HP. Paxton is the same thing just a different name. You can often pick up a used Paxton cheap, they were used on Mustangs and Camaros. These may not be available in Europe. You might consider a turbocharger. New turbos can be bought very reasonable. Don't go overboard, figure on about 5 pounds of boost. This will give a 30% to 40% power increase and not harm the engine if you have a good free flowing exhaust. Any more than that and you are asking for blown head gaskets, burned valves, and other problems. A positive displacement or Roots type blower will work well too. If a suitable blower is available and can be adapted to your engine.
Update... The reason the engine was stalled revealed 3 pieces of intake valve. The stuck valves got loose and easily moved ... The block must be brought to the engine workshop for washing while the cylinders are honed and the surface of the block and deck rectified. The idea is to use as many original engine parts as possible, pistons, valves, connecting rods, crankshaft, bearings, camshaft, etc ..... And I bought from my friend cheap "new" tires that I mounted on the rims and put under
Oh yeah ... By the way, much is it possible to take stuff out of the lid ?? The purpose would be to have some of this old school tuning and the engine compartment would look as original as possible. Previously I was thinking of some charged stuff, but for now I will leave them out.
I found this online. It says that .100 off the head will raise the C.R. from 7 to 7.8. That's a big slice. Go less with a decked block.
Thanks for this! You probably don't need to plan around that much. I'm thinking of installing two or three carburetors, ideas on what kind of carburetors would you start with the project?
Here's a good (long) read on the matter. https://p15-d24.com/blogs/entry/118...-carb-intake-triple-carb-intake-why-not-more/
Last Sunday I washed the block and it was pretty clean. I use the block in machining center, honing the cylinders and at the same time making the planes straight. I cleaned a few valves and looked like new. And I would like to buy a 25 "intake kit for double carburettors !!
removed all the parts cleaning and painting and at the same time what Naan worn parts must be ordered in ... the driver's side of the tie rod end rubbers may be damaged. Wondering new rubbers available? however, the joints seem to be in good condition .. brake shoes in a bit of a bad shape ... Passenger side upper control arm frame, control arm shaft, mounting bolt missing and inner hole worn oval .. needs to go turning that sleeve into that hole ..
Katner (referred to earlier) also has suspension parts. Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Look for a commercial vehicle repair shop. Many still have the capability to bond or rivet new friction material to original brake shoes. We have a place here who says they can work on anything from cars to carosels, from elevators to fork lifts, trailers to tanks, scooters to front end loader.
I soaked all of my front end parts including the spindles in a citric acid solution. I gave them a few days, neutralized the acid and washed them off. Most looked like new. Then pained everything, looks great.
The passenger side parts, the larger dirt already cleaned my knife out. The idea would be to use either citric acid or sandblasting to clean the parts for painting. And the front body is just sandblasting.....
Citric acid works best on parts that have had most of the crud scraped off them. I buy the acid in 5-lb bags on eBay and it goes a long way (1 lb to 5 gallons of water). BUT... keep the label with it once you open it up. It looks just like an illegal white powder.
The Jalopy Journal
