Thanks for the update. Buddy just picked up similar hydraulics for his project. What's the center to center distance on that lever for the throwout fork?
Engine went back into the frame this morning and it’s time to think about my exhaust system. Have my helper in the garage and we just need to turn this pile of parts into a functioning system I figured I would put the mufflers mid frame that way I have some place to install hangers to support them.
Exhaust project is moving along I purchased a 1.75” header bend kit so I have been cutting them up using them to make my exhaust system Im pretty sure I saw this trick on H.A.M.B. so I can’t take credit for it but a wide hose clamp with a hole drilled in it holds the pipes square and you can tack them together I made up some flanges and welded them up to the headers Next up is make the muffler mounts and the send some pipes over the axle Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
A little progress in the last few weeks I was able to make up the exhaust that runs over the axle and was able to get mounts tacked onto one side. I’m having to time my noisy work (grinding and cutting) in between a sleeping baby directly above the garage but I’m getting a few hours a week Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hello I was able to finish up the exhaust and it is now welded together. I painted and set up a new set of 4.11 gears for the rear diff and had a drive shaft made up. Next up was to set the body back onto the frame so I could set up my parking brake, fuel lines, and stat on the electrical system. I used my hoist to suspend the body so I could lower it down into the frame. Seemed to work really well and is a one man operation Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks I have to agree with you I think it cleans up the back frame so it doesn’t just disappear under the car Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Tonight’s project I picked up a ebrake handle from the local pick and pull out of a 90’s ford escort as it was pretty compact and simple. But I needed to adapt the Lokar cable ends to ford escort. I put the old Logan lathe to use and machined up a little adapter. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Been busy working on some more plumbing and running my main power cables. Made up a mount for my battery and master disconnect switch than made up cables and a body pass through that works as my frame to body ground as well. After trying a few benders I was able to make up my fuel line and installed a pressure regulator to connect to carbs Next up was my lines for the heater I didn’t want to drape the lower one over the cylinder so I was able to run in under the header and made up a copper pipe that I will paint black so it disappears
Used a couple of 1.25 bends and made up some upper coolant line to clear the offset generator. They are stainless so I plan to polish them
A few more months have passed and I have been slowing getting things done. Installed and the spark plug looms and routed the plug wires. When I purchased the speedway looms I did not notice the warning that they will not fit the down draft tube so I ended cutting about 2” off the loom tubes and moved and welded back on a mounting tab. After a few hours work the bolt on part actually fits now I wanted to get started on my electrical system originally I was going to build my own harness with a buss man fuse box but by the time I started pricing out buying all the wire and accessories it turned out to be cheaper to just pick up a universal painless harness. I did have to remove all the pre bundled sections painless ties it up as my fuse box and harness location is not typical. I mounted the fuse box on my swing down electrical panel that mounts all my switches under the dash but then lowers to give easy access to the fuses. I than ran the harness out of the interior and to the front and back of the car. I ordered a bunch of Deutsch DT connectors as I find them very easy to work with, weather proof and you can pull them apart to slide the harness through small holes with just the pins installed For the front turn signals I installed yellow LED bulbs in the top marker lights on my 904-A BLC lamps For the gauges I’m using 2 coolant temp gauges for each bank of the flathead so I had to give up the spot for my voltmeter in the standard 5 gauge panel. To get around this I’m using a voltage indicating LED that changes colour with the voltage level it reads so it’s more of a visual voltmeter. I drilled out a hole and counter sunk it in the Center of the dash to keep everything balanced. I sanded down then polished the gauge panel and installed the engine turned inserts to give it some shine Next up is to loom wrap the harness as I have powered the car up and everything is working on the electrical side.
Spent some of my Christmas holidays out in the garage. Got the urge to dust off the lathe and make my second air cleaner. Just waiting on the element but it’s all done and the both just need a polish
Weekend project update. I needed a firewall to separate the fuel tank and battery from the passenger compartment. First up was to make a template of the fire wall with poster board Then I cut it out of some .040” aluminum sheet I wanted to roll some beads into it so I pulled out my cheap knock off bead roller. But I made a modification that has made it much easier to work with. I removed the old crank handle and made up a adapter and replaced it with a steering wheel making each turn of the wheel a lot more controllable That way I was able to roll in some fairly straight beads A little seam sealer around the edgers will seal up the small gaps
Looking great man, well done so far! Entire family is from there minus me (Langley) Heard you guys are getting lots of snow!
Thanks, we are heading into a stretch of snow then -30c temps next week not looking forward to it at all. I also grew up in White Rock so I’m still trying to coupe with this hole wi tee thing. You gave a neat 29 build going on as well
Small project details. Needed a way to get gas into the tank from the filler. Had to take one 2” aluminum tubing and turn down to 1.75” then attach into my fuel filler to adapt to my fuel tank. You don’t realize how useful a lath is until you have one Next up was the tank portion. I don’t think I ant the tank to be filled to %100 capacity as it would allow no room for expansion and I think when filling it it out over flow. My solution was to weld a 2” stand pipe on the inside that way the tank could only fill to %90 capacity before gas started to back up the filler tube hopefully shutting off the gas pump. A small 1/16” hole drilled in the top of the stand pipe then should allow that gas to slowly drain into the tank and allow some space for the gas to expand with temperature Next up was using one left over header bends to make the connection between the tank and filler
“Next up was the tank portion. I don’t think I ant the tank to be filled to %100 capacity as it would allow no room for expansion and I think when filling it it out over flow. My solution was to weld a 2” stand pipe on the inside that way the tank could only fill to %90 capacity before gas started to back up the filler tube hopefully shutting off the gas pump. A small 1/16” hole drilled in the top of the stand pipe then should allow that gas to slowly drain into the tank and allow some space for the gas to expand with temperature.” Nice! I never would have thought about that in advance!
Hi Rob, Been I've been subscribed and following along but I'm not seeing the pictures for your last post (#111). Anybody else not able to see the pics or is it just me? I see all the other pics on all of your other posts. Thanks! Carry on!
Next project was to verify clearance around the diff under full suspension travel and I found my Panhard bar was just contacting the floor so I had to make some clearance. A little cutting opened up a window and I made up a little raises cover
Have had the car pushed to the corner of the garage the last few months with some home renovation work. But I’m now back on it fixing up a few things I was no happy with. In I removed the body to get back to the frame First up the rear brake line something just never sat right all the fightings seems I was overthinking it changed it out for a simpler factory rubber line I also added a support to the front of my transmission mount to tie the front back into the frame (will get a picture later) I then stripped it down to the bare frame and at this point I’m getting ready to start the body work in the frame to fix up some grind marks. I’m still trying to figure out my paint situation as I was planning on painting it in the garage but the more I look into that it seems like a bad ideal(attached garage in a busy neighborhood) I don’t want to fume up the house or anger the neighbours. So my next plan has been talking with a local body shop that does some work on older cars (fixed up and did some paint on my maverick) and they willing to do the painting after I do the prep. So I construct a tent in the garage to try to keep the dust down and just now working on a rotisserie for the frame
Enjoying following your build. Love your fabrication and attention to detail. I have never seen a voltage indicating LED and I love the idea. Would appreciate any information on them, brand or where it you got it. After seeing yours I did an internet search but didn't come up with anything. Thanks, John
Here are a couple that might get you started https://www.digikey.com/en/articles/how-to-drive-multicolor-leds http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/misc/vbat/index.html Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app