Just did some " googling" seems the " newer" Holley's with the "hat" style seals( not o rings) don't use tubes with ridges ?? Yours must use the end seals , not o rings , you're gonna have to ask someone else as I've never used them , all the Holley's I've done used o rings ....
Nope, no friends, no junk yards. Searching for "transfer tube" rather than "balance tube" gave me a lot more hits so thank you for that. That is why I ask here first...the biggest group of friends and parts source I have! And appearantly mine is the newer style without O-rings but as I said the replacement ends in the kit are too big.
@cactus1 What was the brand of the rebuild kit? This is what they should look like. If you were closer I'd give you a couple.
No name on the kit oddly enough. Just a 37-119 kit that came in an unmarked bag from the internet. The ones you have look like the ones I need so I guess my tube is legit, just the wrong ends. I’ll swing by the NAPA the next time I’m out and about.
Well just in case any one stumbles upon this thread with the same issue I have I found a part number for the seals (I think) Holley 108-97. These are the ones for the later type carbs without the o-rings. None of my local parts houses had them so I just ordered them from Speedy Bill as I had gift card to burn from Christmas last year. I'll let you know if they are the right ones when they arrive.
Well finally got time to pull the carb. The jets are 55 and one was not seated, was leaking fuel past the sides. The pump nozzle is 31. The transfer slot was very long/exposed. I was able to adjust it to bring the slot to look like a square.... These adjustment helped, but it has a hard time idling in gear.....oy.
Adjust the idle to where it doesn't "clunck" into gear but will stay running ,you can have someone hold the brake , in gear , while you adjust the idle
Just put a new HEI on it did not change springs out... Did a vacuum reading on manifold, came in at 15hg, when put into gear drops to 10 hg.
And when the vacuum drops ,the advance drops (slower timing,) ,hence the nearly 500 rpm idle drop , you may have to switch the vacuum source to ported vacuum to maintain a reasonable idle ...?
I am running ported vacuum now...to the best of my understanding, I dont have the manifold vacuum source shown in picture. Should I try the manifold vacuum...tie into the manifold with the brake booster and transmition vacuum hose.? Thanks for your time.
No , if your using the one labeled timed spark port that's the one you .want. do you have vac there at idle ??
Yes, that is the one that I am using, runs to the distributor s vacuum advance. " Timed spark port" with the vacuum gauge hooked up to intake manifold it reads 15 hg. I am at 3900 ft elevation.
Sorry , fell asleep last nite ...the reason I asked if you had vac at the timed port at idle is if you do , then your throttle blades are open too far . If that's the case , you can open the sec. Flaps a bit so you can close the front ones and eliminate the ported vac AT IDLE. Then you might be able to get the idle rpm under control.....you may have said but what are you running for a cam ??
^^^^^ I'd like to know about cam as well. I'm not liking how much the secondary transfer slots are exposed with such a small cfm carb. Still to fat on idle with that set up is how I see it. But again I'm here and he's there. Can only go by next answer/answers.
Thanks, will take a look. Not sure on the cam, I am thinking that Previous owner may have modified the cam, he was not to knowledgeable, he had so someone else do the build and than he parked it...... I have been cleaning up all the other monkey business done on it. Still a good rig.
I messaged the previous owner, will have to wait and see. I did change from the time ported to manifold vacuum for the vacuum advance....no difference in idle. My understanding is I should have had to reset timing and idle speed when I hooked into the intake manifold. Think I am going to run another vacuum reading and pull one plug wire at a time and see what happens...
If you're getting vacuum at idle at the timed vacuum port , then your primary throttle blades are too far open .
Ok, I never checked the vacuum after I switched the vacuum line from the timed port to the intake manifold. I was doing this to see if there would be a change in idle or running smoother. Nothing changed...so there is other issues at work here. I will put the vacuum line back to the timed port and start from there again.
Switching vacuum from time to manifold should result in increased rpms as the manifold vaccum should be pulling vacuum advance.. this will allow you to lower the primary butterfly
Are you sure you don't have a problem in the secondary side. Look for fuel dropping off the boosters at idle.
Just got a message from the previous owner, yes it has a modified cam, he has no idea what type/size....,The guy who put it in has past away.
If it has a hotter than stock cam it should or could need more timing to help smooth out the idle. Whats your timing at now?
What is the best, steady manifold vacuum you can pull at a reasonable idle speed in neutral? How much vacuum at 30 to 40 MPH at a steady cruising speed on a level stretch of road? Make sure your vacuum gauge is connected only to a FULL MANIFOLD vacuum source.
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