Went on nastyz28 to decode these numbers and I’m getting hung up on several different stamps. I’ll give some photos of the block stamps and heads It’s a SGI block which I’ve been reading up on and seems like it’s a good block to build on, there is another code here that I can’t seem to get the photo to upload but it’s the basic liter size and all that. Big number 4 gm 5.7 G then it says SGI, standard info kinda there. But above it it says D148 I don’t think the heads are good but I’m no expert so I’ll upload that as well. Just wondering about this block first time I’ve seen the SGI and it says they come out of interceptors trucks or corvettes? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It’s got 638 stamped on the side of the block as well. Doing research it seems the 638 is the better one? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It is hard to tell from your picture but those don't look like GM broach marks on the block boss. Re Stamp? A plausibility.
I think the 624 heads are large chamber head...trucks, etc...like 76cc, but don't know or recall if they are a good head to use or not. The stamping on the block with the V0 xxxxx etc, should tell you what the engine came from. Rebuilders tag is not going to tell you anything. Have you tried mortec.com? I used to use that site, but haven't in a long time.
partial VIN CJE.... tells us C is Chevy Truck J is 1989 E is the vehicle assembly plant, Linden, where they made Blazers So, it's a 1989 truck block. Does that answer your most basic questions?
A few more pics would help. Does it have the bosses in the lifter valley for a roller spider? I have one,,I will try to upload a pic tomorrow and tell you what is in mine A really nice block,,,all in all,,,good block. Tommy
The reason that you're having trouble uploading these pics is that they're 4032 × 3024 pixels. That's 12MP and a lot larger than they need to be. Try downsizing them first to something around 1000 pixels on the longest side or shoot them at a lower resolution and they'll upload in the blink of an eye.
that Oct 28 19x8 date code is the cylinder head, not the block. He said the block says D 14 8 on it, either way, it's from that era, the blocks were mostly the same from 1986-94ish.
Look and see if it is machined for a mechanical fuel pump, some are, some are not completely machined for one, and some are not machined for one at all.
I think that they pretty well nailed it. The reman number simply means that at one tie it was sent to a production rebuild shop and was "rebuilt" The tag was their warranty tracking tag. What that means now is that it was probably bored oversize but other than that you had better check every bearing and mike every throw and journal on the crank as some of those rebuild shops went way past what we as Hambers would consider to be a safe cut on the rods or mains. I've seen them with .040 under on the rods and .060 on the mains before. That is rare but those shops don't throw anything away unless it is so bad they can't make it usable .
Good lord overkill. Man thanks for the help. On that machined lip what’s up with the two different lines of codes? One looks like it was stamped at once and the other looks individually stamped. But I tried looking up the info cause I thought you were able to grab more info off this block like hp or what it came in. I could be mistaken. But do you guys think since this is a stronger casted block “SGI” that it would make for a good motor build? I’m taking it in to get sonic tested to see how far out I can build it. I got a hand full of blocks to choose from but I forgot I had this one. Found it under a a calf hutch here on the farm four bolt main, one piece rear seal, and I’ll have to look at it more to answer more of your guys questions. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It’s machined for a mechanical fuel pump. I removed it during stripping the thing Down, rod and all Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yea I don’t know if these are decent heads, from what I read they are so so, thin casted and crack easy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well my curiosity has me going now after saying that. I’m unsure completely Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That is factory GM broaching on the deck, and they are factory stampings. Those two series of stamped numbers tell us exactly what the block is. No need to worry about all the other numbers.
This block was not a roller block,,,but it had the bosses cast into the lifter valley. All I did was buy a spider and mock it up where it should sit,,,I marked the place and drilled and tapped the holes. The front of the block had the bosses where the cam retainer holds the roller cam in. I purchased a retainer and marked the hole location,,,drilled and tapped. It fit perfect. The only thing I am disappointed about is the block is not drilled for a mechanical fuel pump,,,,really disappointed about that! I plan on using an Edelbrock intake that I have not finished cleaning yet,,,and a Chevy dual point distributor. Old school M/T valve covers,,,and stuff on that order. It’s a 2 bolt main block if I remember correctly. Sorry about the aluminum heads,,,,I got them dirt cheap (brand new),,,all the head gear is new.. I got the engine from my Daddy,,,it only had about 80000 miles on It,,I got the short block. He is 90 years old and I wanted to use this as something to remember him by in the future I only used the block and crank,,,,all else inside is new,,,I probably went a little too radical inside,,,that is one of my shortcomings lol. Block was perfect,,,standard bore,,,,crank was also,,standard,standard. Tommy
Here are some more pics I had to put on my iPad from my phone. I always paint mark my bolts after being torqued,,,just a safety feature I rely on. I also mic all the pistons and fit them in the best sized bore. It has I beam rods with floating pins and Speed Pro pistons . Not too bad for a dumb ole country boy. Tommy