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Projects Yoke / U-joint Help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Grabis, Aug 29, 2019.

  1. Grabis
    Joined: Jun 3, 2015
    Posts: 124

    Grabis
    Member

    Hey H.A.M.B.,

    I’m trying to piece together my 54 Chevy project and ran into some unknowns I’m struggling to identify.

    My main question is: Is this a 1310 style diff yoke? Or how can I tell?
    It has locating tabs and they are about 3.22-3.23 inches apart. There is not a groove for snap rings.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    The rear end is a GM 8.5” 10 bolt. Based on the code JB G230 I believe it to be a 1972 or 1975 car rearend. The gearing seems to match at 2.73

    When I bought the car it had this rearend but had a Buick 300 with an auto trans. The engine was seized so I got a 350 SBC and a Saginaw 4 speed. I bought a 1310 slip yoke to mate with the Saginaw but now that I’m at the point of having the driveshaft cut down I’m realizing that the U-joints on the shaft don’t match a 1310 style.

    I’m now planning to go get a 1310 style driveshaft from the junkyard but I’m not sure if I would have to change the pinion yoke or possibly use a combination style U-joint.

    I’m hoping that the pinion yoke is a 1310 style and I can just get a driveshaft to match so I don’t have oddball U-Joints.

    For what it’s worth, the drive shaft has inside C-clips on the U-joints and was installed on the Buick auto trans. I think it’s possible that someone mismatched the rear U-joint. The car came out of a pasture and I don’t know if it was on the road with the Buick drivetrain.

    Any suggestions are appreciated!

    Here’s the driveshaft.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


    Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2019
  2. winr
    Joined: Jan 10, 2008
    Posts: 217

    winr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

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  3. bill gruendeman
    Joined: Jun 18, 2019
    Posts: 808

    bill gruendeman
    Member

    A 8.5 10 bolt rear end should be a s44 also called r3? U joint. Fits most gm cars from the 60 s to the 90s I think
     
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  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,941

    squirrel
    Member

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  5. 78Magnum
    Joined: Jun 1, 2018
    Posts: 13

    78Magnum
    Member

    Grabis,

    I work in a driveline shop. Your differential yoke IS a 1310 series. Your driveshaft is a GM 3R series. From experience, I can tell just by looking at your pictures. You can get a conversion u-joint to mate your driveshaft up to your pinion yoke. Spice part number 5-3022X is what you need. I hope this helps you.

    Cam
     
  6. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,941

    squirrel
    Member

    That's what I thought....

    I haven't seen the 3R yokes without the plastic titties before.
     
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  7. Boryca
    Joined: Jul 18, 2011
    Posts: 709

    Boryca
    Member
    from Detroit

    You're missing a couple caps on that rear u-joint from the looks of it. You wouldn't need clips on the rear pinion yoke, those tabs keep the caps from coming off the u-joint and keep it centered in the yoke; all you need are some caps and some u-bolts.

    Oh, and u-joints that aren't square are called "bastard joints" and there's lots of them. A parts store where you know the guy behind the counter will have a book you can look through to get exactly what you need, though I'd start with what 78Magnum said up above.
     
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  8. Grabis
    Joined: Jun 3, 2015
    Posts: 124

    Grabis
    Member

    Guys,
    Thank you for the responses. I was out in the garage last night with the Denny’s Driveline info measuring my parts (car) with a caliper and the 1310 seemed to fit the diff yoke. 3R looked like my driveshaft u-joints.

    Wanted some confirmation from folks with more experience than me. As usual, I now have a lot more info than I started with!!!!

    Thanks Guys!


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2019
  9. Grabis
    Joined: Jun 3, 2015
    Posts: 124

    Grabis
    Member

    Cam,
    This is exactly what I was hoping for, someone with daily experience to kick me in the right direction. I hadn’t removed any of the 3R joints yet so my measuring was a little limited. The rear joint caps disappeared when I removed the shaft back in 2015.

    Looks like I have two good options. Since the shaft needs to be shortened I can have that done and use conversion u-joints at both ends or try to find a 1310 style driveshaft in the boneyard, with any luck, the correct length.

    Thanks Man!!!
    Travis


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  10. Grabis
    Joined: Jun 3, 2015
    Posts: 124

    Grabis
    Member

    Thanks Squirrel!


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    osage orange likes this.

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