Picked up a 62 Belair a couple of weeks ago, it has a 235 inline with a powerslide. I've never done an inline six, and I want to build at least one old school hot six before age completely catches me. As part of the engine build I'm going to lump port the head, watched some videos and it looks pretty easy to me. With that being said, all I can find is lump port kits for for 230 - 292 inlines. Will one of those kits work on a 235? I don't mind modifying the kit to make it work, just want to know if its possible. Sent from my SM-J337P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have never heard the term Lump Porting, but this is the post work done by @BnG Engine on my 261 BlueFlame 6.
heck a stock 261 has more power than a souped up 235. I always thought trying to build up a 235 was a effort in futility. Too long of stroke and marginal from a performance standpoint cyl head. A 235 in a heavy car. backed by a cast iron power glide needs all the low end torque it can muster. performance mods kill low end power. Now I had a .040 over 250 with a offy 4 bbl intake , hedders a bit of cam. and it was in a 66 GMC short bed Pk. and it would turn RPM like a small block chevy and was plenty fast.
The Siamese design of the 235 ports is much different from the 250/292 head. Different engine. I doubt the lump port will work in your engine
I'd leave the head alone aside from opening it up under the valves. Spend your money on some custom pop up pistons and a good cam.
I like that idea, I do want to run it off of pump gas so I'm thinking 9.5:1, a decent cam, split header, and 2x1bbl carb setup. I'm not building a drag car, just want to jump out of the box and break away from the V8s with this one and do something different. If I can achieve around 250 horse ... I'll be happy. Sent from my SM-J337P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yeah 9:1 would be a good target. These things didnt even hit 7:1 when they were new. balance it, get the damper from BHJ dynamics (expensive but will help with the long stroke). Get GMC Bubba to work the distributor over if you cant do it. Money well spent. . No need to go to an HEI. Watch your carbs. Lots of guys can get the potbelly rochesters to work. I cant. I take then to the street and throw them as far as I can. Then I run and pick them up and throw them again. An overdrive will make gearing better and that will do as much for performance as all you do to the 235. Just my 2 cents but if you hit 175 hp you will be doing great.
Dont know... just threw a number out there. The inline six is uncharted waters for me, always built V8s. Sent from my SM-J337P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I hate to say this but the newer series (230/250/292) is actually a better engine and wouldn't be too bad of a swap for that car. The 235 is heavier, less hp, more expensive, inherently a little more difficult to work on, harder to find parts for. And I wont tell you the bad things about them. I love my 235 but I'm a little weird that way. But if you want to keep the 235, hell yeah, we can help. Listen to Squirrel and a couple others here and we will have that sucker running like it never has run before
Well Gentlemen, this is a timely thread. I wasn't going to post about my project, but this has caused me to reconsider. First, I completely agree with the unsuitability of the 216/235/261 engines being candidates for the 'lump port' mod. What I have chosen to do is build/have built a 250 Chevy six for my '37 Chevy Coupe. I had one on hand, along with a few 292's and a 230. For several reasons, I chose the 250. It is bored .060", flat top pistons (est. 9 to 1 comp), mild Sig Erson cam, an Aussiespeed 4 bbl manifold with 500 cfm Edelbrock AVS 2 carb, Pertronix distributor, 12bolt cast manifold/ headers (nee Langdon).....the head has been modified in accordance with Leo Santucci's "bible" on 194/230/250/292 Chevy sixes..... Lump Port mod, a bit larger valves, valve pocket enlargement, screw in rocker studs, full roller rockers and other minor mods. It was just fired up last Monday for run in and then some dyno pulls. I know what I hoped for, but did not know what to expect. Dyno data begins at 3000 rpm.....147 hp...rising quickly to 228 hp from 3000 to 5200 rpm. Torque was 256 at 3000, rising to 258 soon after and holding a flat line until about 4700 then dropping to low 250's at 5200. I was very pleased. Ray
My 56 more door has a stock 55 235 solid lifter engine. The only mod I done to it was get a chrome valve cover. Yes I would swap a 235 where a 216 was in a AD truck or 54 & older car. However the 62 chevy already had the 3 point mounts ad a 230 thru 292 with a aluminum glide or other automatic can be installed pretty easy. My wife drives a OT fuel injected 6 cyl 2 wheel drive Jeep Cherokee. and that little engine is not bad performance wise. It will turn 110 in the quarter mile. easy high 14 second car. I have another junk one with the same injected engine. If I could find the stick trans and bell ect. I would install it in a 60,s chevy pickup.
wolf ......I am a veteran driver of 6 cyl Cherokees (and TJ Jeeps).....I know they are OT here, but that 4.0 engine is one fine machine. I have had both 2wd and 4wd over the years. My preference for DD was same as your Missus......4.0 w/4 spd OD automatic in a 2 door version. Fairly light weight and fast! ‘Re my fresh 250 six cylinder Chevy.....here are some pics....... I am really inclined to put an aluminum case Powerglide behind this as they are small case and light weight and low parasite drag internally. My ‘37 Chevy Coupe theme is ‘simple and light’......if PG, thinking I will use 3.27 diff.....maybe 3.55.....With the combination of engine torque and torque converter multiplication, I think the PG would work well for street use, which is all I have in mind. I do have TH350 and TH2004R on hand in case I am mistaken about that..... Ray
The 250 I had in the 66 GMC short bed I sold last December was backed by a aluminum powerglide. I had 342 rear gears. it worked out fine. I used a HEI and had a holley 390 carb. the holley needed a kit. and I adapred a Rochester 2 bbl to the intake. When I decided to sell the truck I removed the intake and hedders and installed a stock I bbl intake.
Thanks for all the advise on the 235 six, learned a lot from everyone and I do appreciate all of the input. Think I'll stay with what I know, I've got a 350 4 bolt and a th400 laying around, I'm going to build that. As far as bang for the buck you can't beat it. Sent from my SM-J337P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
my vote is for a 292 eres yhe build start to finish https://www.facebook.com/pg/LarrysAutoMachine/photos/?tab=album&album_id=704266242919989
I have a few 292,s in my hoard. the wifes 66 chevy 3/4 has one. She commonly hauled 6500 pounds of feed in her truck. They will pull anything & rarely need to downshift. However I prefer the 250 engines. They will also pull if you downshift and don't guzzle fuel like a 292 does. Most times the extra power of the bigger mill is not necessary.
So was I, for a long time when considering a 6 cylinder build. When the time came, several small considerations added up to thinking the 250 (now about 256”) was better suited. Saves about 40 lbs weight for starters and for my particular application a 292 is overkill. Ray
@Hnstray I get that with the 250. Most of the time when I dreaming and spending someone elses money its easy to say do a 12 port head, side drafts and an expensive transmission. When it comes down to doing it I find a running 235 and out dual carbs and exhaust on it and call it good. Im a wimp
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