does any one have any experience with the tube shock kits from Brattons or Ken Davis? brat tons sells two styles a clamp on and one kit that requires drilling and taking the rear hubs off. clamp on seemed a little sketchy to me but if it works it is less work. is the ride any good? I have a customer looking to have me do this and I have never tried any of these kits, I have always put good old, new. or rebuilt original style but they are pricey. kits are cheaper.
I had originals rebuilt on my roadster and the ride is better than my coupe with tube shocks. Go original rebuilt IMO it's the way to go. While you are at it put a 327/365 in it.
I'm in the 'run the originals' camp. but that said, all the guys in the local Model A club here are running the ones that require the drilling and hub removal. The clamp on ones run more towards the center of the car and are less effective. The other installation is farther out on the axles. My $.02
he was hoping the tube shocks would work ok to save the money. I just don't want him to be disappointed.
I had looked at the instructions for the kit that required drilling and it did seam like a better design than the clamp on. any of the guys running them unhappy with the kits?
They are happy with them and more and more seem to be going to them. I suspect that your customer will be happy with ride improvement if you let him drive it for awhile without any and then install them. Just checked with a buddy that does a lot of work on these guys cars, he has installed a few of the kits and he says no real installation issues. Good luck Sent from my XT1254 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've always wondered how a stock A rode with shock absorbers, not a "Bucket List" level wonder, just never rode in one with them. Bob
You may want to ask your question on Ford Barn forum. I bought the Ken Davis bolt on kit based on Ford Barn feedback and am very pleased with ease of installation and ride quality.
I have the Ken Davis shocks on my ‘29 CCPU. Put MG Midget rear shocks on the front of the Zipper. Both set ups are better than stock. For those advocating stock shocks, have you checked those prices lately?
For the front I’d use one of the bolt on street rod set ups that use the longer spring perches, much better design. Although if still running mechanical brakes you’ll have to weld on a piece on the perch for the mechanical brakes. The kits I’ve seen on the A restoration sites look cobbled. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
update: he ordered the kit from ken Davis. I installed it today. went together easy. first step was to remove the old shocks.
the upper brackets bolt in the same holes the original shocks bolt to in the front. the lower bracket fits into the web of the axle and gets held in by drilling one hole and bolting to the axle. tighten the shocks and the front is done.
in the rear, the kit comes with a bracket that shares the two holes on each side that hold the bumper bracket.
the rear drums need to be removed and the e-brake band moved to the side so the two rear backing plate bolts can be removed.
the lower rear brackets get bolted to the backing plates.......unfortunately I did not take a photo of the rear installed. test drive results. car road much better and stable at speed. this was a really good update and worth the two hours it took to install.
i just can't believe someone would look at them crude ugly angle iron bracket's and think yea that's what i want
Restorers are a weird bunch. They are either ultra-strict OEM only guys who need every single part to be exactly as it left the factory. Or they seem to not care one bit and will bolt on crude aftermarket parts that can be seen as non-original from a mile away. Not even trying to disguise it as a production part. And they will still badmouth hot rodders.
there's so much difference between those aftermarket shock kit bracket's in the look's department and let's say henry's F1 FRONT AND 40 REAR MOUNT'S. those angle iron bracket's are what we used to call farmerized she didn't look pretty but was fuctional
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