Hoping to get some help. I am about to start fitting my 59AB and T5 transmission into a pinched '32 frame, with a '31 Model A roadster body on it, and I am in need of some measurement to get me started. I plan on using a '32 grill, a Vega box... My biggest hope is not to cut the firewall or angle the oil filler tube. Can someone that has done this provide, the centerline to center line, measurement between the radiator holes on the crossmember and the water pumps? I will be using the 8RT truck water pumps and the 8 bolt oiled fan with the offenhauser carrier. I've seen it done before but I know the fit is very tight. Anyone with experience....anything I should be in the look out for? I believe the bottom water hoses tend to be an roadblock to overcome. Any advice/feedback will be greatly appreciated. I've done several searches but have come empty handed.
Are you running a stock hood ? did you center the body with the apex of the frame kick up ? there is a 2 1/2" difference in wheelbases... With my sportster I slid the A body forward 1 1/4" and the front crossmember backward the same to run a stock hood... I reversed the firewall so the engine should fit fine... still need to move the gastank forward the 1 1/4" plus the difference between the measurements from the center of the wheelwells back to the body's end... '32 was longer... want to keep the sender out of sight... HIH.
I installed everything with clamps on the mounts and made sure every thing fit before I welded anything. John
The first thing is to put the body on the frame or at least the firewall. Mock up is key as your setup will fit with out cutting the firewall. Throw a few block of wood under the motor transmission and set it against the firewall . Then try to have the motor high enough for the water pump to radiator . In fact you will have plenty of space as a flathead will fit into a model a ford frame with out cutting firewall and you have 2 more inches to play with.
Really the only way to do it, and to know it's all going to fit right, is to have the radiator, shell, water pumps, fan, motor and body all together and set in place. Then you can adjust and move things to where they need to be.
No stock hood. I am assuming a longer hood will be needed. Yes, The rear fender well is center over the rear axel. Thx,
Body is mounted and fully secured. Thank you for the advice on the wood blocks; I hadn't though of that and simple enough. Glad to hear there is some extra room there.
I have all but the radiator. Maybe if I find out the thickness of the core and height of outlets from crosmember uo, maybe I can get close enough??
You will need the radiator to make sure the lower hoses will line up with the outlets as well as fan clearance. Might as well buy it now and be done with it--only way to do it so there are no ugly surprises later on.
What are the options out there for a radiator? It seems a 2" chopped Walker radiator is the most commonly used. Is a 2" chopped correct? I heard 3" chopped is 28-29' and 2" chopped for 30-31's...is that correct? Any other options besides Walker? At $900, it seems like a very expensive option.
Built my frame... raised it up towards the front as stock, so I bought a 3" chopped aluminum '30 radiator... did so because the frame raises up towards the front on '32 frames... the '30 body will sit flat on the center section of the '32 frame... then the frame raises from flat, making the body beltline point about 2" below its spot on the grill... get out the masking tape and tape it off in a area where you can stand back 20 feet to sight it... hight and angle make a difference... take a bunch of pictures so you can see it from all hights and angles later... . I will need to remove a couple washers to drop the grill and radiator... hood top bead tilts up just a bit...
Jamco suspension built mine for @ 600.00 Vern Tardel suggested them in his book How to build a traditional Ford hot rod.
Masking tape is good advice. I do want the belt line to flow correctly. I will have the hood special order, as I want the sides to be the '32 chevy vents and louvers on top to go with it.
Are those the guys in Cypress, CA? If so, they are about an hr away from me I will give them a call tomorrow. I have that book, I better read it again.
Roll of the dice, I'm building a AV8 coupe with Gary's (Blackboard hot rods) pinched 32 frame, 8BA with T-5 you are welcome to come by and take measurements if you like, I have the frame at the shop all complete waiting for the body to come back from the paint shop, easy to see and measure all mounts. I'm in Long Beach, PM me if you like, my name is Tim
I used a tractor radiator, older tractor obviously, but had it recored. When you consider the total cost of your car or the cost of an overheated engine, money spent on a good radiator is money well spent !
You are absolutely right! My flathead was pretty penny from H&H and having a good quality radiator makes total sense. I guess I wasn't aware that a radiator could cost as much as they do...Brookville just quoted me $965 + Shipping.
Here is the model number, for those in the same boat as I am. Walker FHZ491-2-20 If anyone knows other options....welcome to share! Anyone with the above mention radiator installed on their '32 grill shell, please share a picture. Any modifications needed for it to fit?