Technical 235 i6 cam replacement

so I guess ill move on from the damper bolt saga . looking o upgrade my 41 spcl dlux coupe with 62 235 . now it looks like cam rplcmnt time . any reason #3 exhaust lobe should go flat , or just old age / bad grind . pushrod is still spinning in circles even though its not moving up . all the rest appear fine . anyway would like to try a bigger cam , just so I can say I have one . never swapped a cam in a stovebolt .anything out of the ordinary to watch for /do ? is the cam gear pressed or bolted . should I just do cam/ lifters or chain and gears to ? im on a budget , so only want to do what I have to . any advice is welcome . including thoughts on just going with my running 250 pg out of / still in my 73 nova . sure like the 235 x2 sound , but the 250 might make more since

 

also does anyone know whats uo with this setup on thhead . rubber hose running to the rocher , why ? and is this the right / good head ?

 

You could get a good used cam out of a 261. they are a bit better and have solid lifters. they have gears no chain. nothing will bolt in with the 250 and glide. and you need a open rear end. Are you certain the cam is flat and its not a collapsed hyd lifter?

 

That hose isn't factory. someone has broken the oil feed tube and rigged it with that hose. The 848 head is supposed to be the best casting.

 

so I assume the picture I posted is the head number , and that isn't the good one? just removed the solid lifter . about a 1/8 or moredip in the bottom , and not much of a lump on the cam with my finger on it . def. rounded

 

Gear is pressed on. You can get a good RV type cam from Isky and new lifters

 

yes you need to replace the cam. they also sell aftermarket high lift rocker arms that have a different ratio. split exhaust and dual carbs where common on stovebolts.

 

from what I was just reading the head may be from a earlier engine . maybe the mtr isn't a 62 truck mtr at all . who knows what happened over the last 57 yrs . how do I identify the block ??

 

You might already have a 261 The 261 that was in my 57 dump truck did not have the 848 head.. look on the side of the block near the starter. A 261 has what looks like captians bars cast on it .

 

Ok I just went and looked at the 55 -235 I have in my 56 more door. It has the exact same casting numbers as yours on the cyl head. 55 engines had factory solid lifters.

 

When you get the side plate of you will know if they are solids or hydraulics. I'd bet all 62 cars were hydraulics. I believe 59 up had the 848 head you may not have one; your block could be a 62.

 

He already has removed the side plate and pulled the solid lifter from the worn cam lobe.

 

heres the #s on the block

 

You might want to check out this forum: https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=138351 Many decades back when I bought some parts from Isky they sent along some McGurk decals so they probably have info on those grinds from "back in the day".

 

The stamped engine serial number does not contain a date/year code. The F means Flint, MI engine plant. The J means a 235 "Thriftmaster" from a 1/2 thru 1-ton truck. The block casting no. 3769716 is for a 58-62 235 block. You need the casting date to determine the actual year of the block. The head no. 3835913 is for a 54 or 55-1st series truck 235 head. Does the valve cover attach with 4 screws?

 

So apparently someone changed the cyl head and likely installed solid lifters in the engines past.

 

yes the head has 4 screws . so the block should be correct and sometime the head was swapped . the head I have is lower comp. right .? so less pwr !

 

Not to hijack (as he hijacks) does anyone know what hp & tq numbers could be expected from a 235 with performance cam, split exhaust, dual carbs or perhaps a small four barrel? I've always been curious. I don't expect it to be all that strong but I'm curious how much improvement over bone stock?

 

I have a new in the box Patrick's 3/4 grind hydraulic camshaft and lifters, if you would be interested ?
I'm going with a 261 and using a bigger camshaft.... Dyno Dave

 

Just a heads up. The bottom two bolts to the timing gear cover come in from the back, which means you need to pull the oil pan to get them out. Replace the timing gears while your at it. I always use the aluminum gear set instead of the fiber cam gear but may be an overkill. Also had good luck with Clifford for cams. I always degree the new cam too but again maybe overkill.

 

speed pro has a 235/261 grind thru summit for $100.oo I don't think I can beat that , but everyone seams awful proud of the solid lifters 277/272

 

ive never deg. a mtr ! guess I should , but no problems so far that I know of

 

I think the difference in the heads isn't compression ratio. I think there is a improved quench in the combustion chamber that makes better flame travel. and a revised coolant passage the results in more efficient exhaust valve cooling.

 

I'm going with a hydraulic camshaft because the dyno printouts that I've seen show that 235's make max power @ between 4500-4800 rpms, then it fall off quickly, it's no SBC... There is no reason to be concerned about the use of lighter lifters. INFO: I have a later 848 head, just a 1/4 comp. point difference
If you want to shoot me a cam & lifter pricing, fairly sure that I could offer mine for less... Dyno Dave

 

done deal , cam and lifters and gaskets in the mail . close to 3 bills total , but ya got to do what ya gota do . mtr sounded pretty goo and had good compression and oil pressure , so it might work out . aint looking for a racecar , or, daily driver . just a smooth running cruiser . like I said , tice pipes are top of the list if I get the mtr in and running right .I had a 54 ,235 pg. when I was young .and those pipes where better than a b.b.c. any day. least that's my memories . my main concern is top speed . hoping for 65 mph , but not expecting it without a rear swap . so shoud the top end oil be ok? seems like all was oiling the way it is . lifters shouldnt care , right ?pix of the one leaving . for sell if anyone needs a 216 . low mi. , I think the timing gea r slipped . never pulled apart

 

so after I remove the balancer and cover to replace cam . how should I install the balancer ??

 

There's 2 each 3/8'' USS threaded holes. Using 2 bolts to hold the balancer halves from flexing, drive it on the shaft, then remove the bolts. Use a dab of sealer on the Woodie key & groove to cut down on oil seepage.

 

well got the cam out . waiting on new one .is it best to use the frnt plate from the 216 or the 235? gota luv the engineering on the bottom timing bolts !im sure there was a reason , but sure cant think of what it was . reminds me of the 2 tabs on a small block timing cover .had to unbolt mtr mount and lift the mtr to remove the pan . so close .back pushrod wont come out either with the cam in ! oh well sure hope the mtr runs right with cam and lifters . so should I change covers or just drill the 235 mount . cam had alhu. gear all ready , so should be good there . thnx

 

On GMC motors, once you had removed the timing cover you tapped the remaining holes and drilled the cover for bolts that installed from the front

 

Many people have drilled and tapped the bottom timing cover holes on Chevy 216/235/261s as well.