My avatar is on a 72 Chevelle station wagon frame. Pretty much the same as a 64 Elky. I used Mcgaughy's tubular upper control arms to help correct my caster. Their control arm uses a factory cross shaft that you can use factory oem style bushings. I used Moog in mine. Hope this helps, Bill Their website : http://mcgaughys.com/
Saved this post from another site. It was to increase caster on a Tri-5. The cheapest caster increase method is the one the late M. McVeigh posted about. You cut the frame mount for the cross shaft loose at the front, move it outboard about 1/4", and re-weld it. There are posts and photos if you can find it in a search.
@Elcohaulic .I'm planning to attend the Quaker Steak & Lube cruise in Robinson Township today if you would like to take a look . Bill
Look at what you are doing..! It's simple 8th grade Geometry (not trig..!) All you need to do is add shims in the proper location..! IF...for some odd reason you want more, all you need to do is rotate the control arm in the direction you want around ONE...of the attachment fasteners...NOT moving the whole arm. Moving the whole control arm will really f**k up the geometry. If you actually do move the whole arm...you'd better FULLY understand what you are doing and the outcome. Caskets aren't cheap these days. I've built a couple of front suspensions. BE careful. Here's my 60 Stude Lark Wagon. C4 Corvette. See the spacers behind the cross bar...that's where you ad and subtract shims to alter both caster and camber...BOTH. Adding or removing rear shims only OR adding or removing front shims, only will move JUST the caster direction. Mike
That will also change camber some. The way to change caster only is to subtract the same amount of shim from the front that you added to the rear or visa-versa. MOOG and Global West make offset shafts that allow more range of adjustment.
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