Since I sell quite a few decals here on the HAMB I'm always asked about tips & tricks on the best way to apply them. I've been selling these for a few years now and collecting them for many more, along the way I've come up with a simple way to use them and its worked well for me many times. If any of you have any other tips feel free to add them to this thread. Step one, park the car in the shade if its warm outside, if its cooler outside apply them in the garage. I dont recommend trying to apply these decals in direct sun in the Summer, it doesnt allow you enough time to position the decal before it dries. I also do not recommend applying them when its too cold, they just wont stick properly. For demonstration purposes I'm using a piece of glass from an old picture frame. Step two is to clean the glass good, better than you ever have before. If the glass is water spotted remove them before applying the decal or they will show through. I prefer Sprayway glass cleaner, it works great and because it foams, it sticks where you put it instead of running down the glass. I get it from a local janitorial supply place. Step three, raid the kitchen, find a decent size plastic container and fill it about halfway with cold water. Dip the decal in the water and keep it completely submerged for at least 30 seconds. The decals have a tendency to curl up as soon as they hit the water, be sure to hold all the corners down. Step four, place the decal face down on the inside of the glass and slide the paper backing away. Step five, position the decal where you want it, if you decide its not quite right you can carefully slide it to another spot on the glass providing the glass is wet. This would be the view from the inside of the glass: The view from the outside of the glass: Repositioned: Step six, take the backing paper the decal was on and fold it in half so that the side of the paper the decal was stuck to (the slimy side) is facing out and use it like a squeegee to remove any bubbles. Make sure the paper is wet and be careful that you dont move the decal from the desired position. Once everything is where you want it and all the bubbles are out leave it alone for 24 hours. Take a paper towel, soak it in water, leave it dripping wet and pat the excess glue away. When you clean your windows keep any cleaning products off the decals and they should last a long, long time.
any ideas on the cracked ones do you think decalsolve from the hobby shop would work? anyone ever try?
Love old decals. Here's some advice I got for applying them when they are in less than stellar condition. With old decals, before you try to apply them you will need to pretreat them. Three things can happen to decals with age. Yellowing, brittleness of the decal film, and failure in the decal adhesive. If the decal has yellowed, leave them in the sun on a window sill for a day which in most cases will bleach out the decal. Next apply one or two coats of Microscale Clear Decal Film to the entire sheet. This stuff is great at preserving old decals and keeps them from cracking upon application, use a wide soft brush and lay it on in even strokes and let it dry before applying another coat. Let it dry overnight before attempting to apply. Once you do this you will need to cut the decal close to the outline as the clear coat is now a continuous surface. Finally sometimes on really old decals the adhesive is so old that it will not stick to the surface. In this instance, you need to replace the adhesive. This is done by making a diluted solution of white glue and water (75% glue 25% water) brush this on just before and sometimes after application of the decal. After the decal has set a bit you can then apply any and all to the setting solution to allow the decal to snuggle down. It will look milky at first, but it will dry clear. Terry
Great tutorial, Muttley. I always found that the decal would release from the paper better if the water was room temperature. I'll have to try the cold water thing like you suggested.
Just replaced the original clutch in my Chieftan this weekend, tripower/stick! Not a fun job, the bellhousing stays on and you do it through the opening in the bottom. Lotsa fun getting the flywheel off and back on, it is indexed by two of the bolts and they are only off by a few hundredths of an inch! KK
One thing we do at work is shoot a bit of clear lawyer over decals to keep them together before applying. Make sure to let it dry and then apply. But the trick with the glue above must help with making it stick.
Thanks for the tips. So the decal go on the inside of the glass? The "glue" is on the top side of the image? I thought the "glue" was on the bottom side and soaking it in water dissolves the glue. is the glue is on top side just on automotive type decals not model car decals?
Most automotive application decals can be used either way but will almost certainly last longer on the inside of the glass. I really have no idea if the decals for models are the same.
I had a pair of 12" waterslide Mooneyes on each front fender of my '56 Ford. When I retired it from the strip, I wanted to remove the decals. My grandmother came to the rescue: White vinegar. Just apply it generously, then wipe it off, clean terrycloth towel. Some work, but did the job perfectly. (wish I had those Mooneyes now...) Years ago, (1962) Goodies Speed Shop had 4 little decals, 2.5" high (tall) They were the 4 bad guys of Bardahl. Blackie Carbon, Gummy Rings, Sticky Valves and Dirty Sludge. They went on your drivers side wing window. I had a few sets, gone now. Anybody know where I can get a set now?