Technical Juice Brake Conversion, Issues, Help!

Check Edelman brass for the 90 degree fittings.

 

Are you getting full stroke of the master cylinder working thru the bell crank mechanism in your first post?
How much free play before the push rod contacts the master cylinder piston.
Do you hear the brakes moving as soon as the master cylinder strokes?
Maybe tighten all eight of the adjuster cams down tight and see if that brings the pedal up.

 

alright... new issues.

So we installed the residual control valve, 10 lb. Here are the new issues:
1. I get decent pedal pressure but it's about half way down, seems like it should be higher.
2. After I let it sit a few minutes, pedal goes all the way down to about 1" above floor, then I have to pump it 2-3 times to get it back to halfway down.
3. Front brakes are slightly engaged all the time.

I used original return springs on the front so I ordered new ones hoping this will fix problem #3.

Any advice would be helpful. Everything else seems to be as it should and the fluid stay full in the master cylinder so don't believe I have any leaks.

Thanks!!
Vinnie

 

Like Rich said, few years ago I put a Ford truck master on my 48 ford to get a good pedal, the bore of the brake cylinders on a original 48 Ford are big, like 1 1/8" on the small end. Trying to fill these big brake cylinders with the small bore Mustang 2 power brake master did't work. (it is a kit made for modern rear and disc brakes)
Had to drill bigger holes on the big truck master to get it to fit the smaller mustang 2 bolt pattern, so now the power drum brakes work pretty good.

 

It's a 1" bore master cylinder. It's made for a 1965 Mustang, manual drum brakes. That seemed to be the consensus of what should be used.