Make power with low comp. 440 ?

that engine can use a lot of timing. invest in a recurve kit. I would set it up with 10 initial and 38 total.

 

Cost effective?
Defining whether or not it's cost effective depends upon what you want the motor to do when it's installed. Remember....I had a 440 laying on the floor in my garage that, upon disassembly/inspection, turned out to be so clean and fresh inside that I decided to button it back up and run it...low compression and all. Perfect bearings, crosshatch, no ridge whatsoever, etc. I have an old (but new) set of .030" over forged TRW slugs with a 2.065 compression height (closed chamber with these pistons woulda gave me around 10.5:1. I didnt use them because i would had to pop for a full rebuild. The Stealth heads were good for nearly a point of squeeze, but the power they deliver is from flow.

My cam choice is conservative, but only slightly so. The engine was intended for a 3800 lbs street car that never sees the track (its a convertible) and I wanted to avoid loosey goosey converters and steep gears (car has 3:55s). The XE268 delivers 400+ torque at only 2500rpm....which is EXACTLY what I wanted.

With the combo I put together, the Comp cams online dyno gave me 512hp. The motor has been in the car for a few months now. With the cam now broken in its making 475hp, which is plenty considering that i'm into this motor for less than 3 grand (thats including buying the motor).

Anyone that doubts that a smogger 440 can make this kind of power should read this thread. The OP on this forum got 449hp out an iron head smogger 440, using only off the shelf parts:
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/dyno-testing-a-stock-1972-440.249866/

This motor will be run for awhile, but its an interim mill. I'm building a Chrysler B stroker (470) that will take the 440's place at some point. For now, the 440 keeps me busy spanking asses, stoplight to stoplight.

Deuces: "I thought all 440 cranks were were forged steel.. I could be wrong...."

Cast cranks became standard in lo-po/truck/land yacht motors after 1971. They can be identified by their counter-weight laden balancers. Hi-po and heavy duty got forged.
However...all Mopar big block crankshafts were "steel"....even the cast cranks: Ma Mopar never put "Iron" cranks in her big blocks. The cast cranks were cast steel....which is probably why they have a reputation for standing up to abuse.

 

And, Budget, I'd absolutely opt for the stealths before porting tired, stock iron heads. I bought my Stealths for 1250: 1000 for the heads and another 250 to have them upgrade the retainers, locks and seals (which I would strongly recommend). For that 1250 I got closed chambered, lightweight heads that flow much better than most ported iron heads right OOTB. The stealths will allow you to run your stock rockers (up to .525" lift)

 

Ok, well I was half right... Thanks!

 

Call Jim @ Racer Brown 410-866-7660 after 2pm eastern time.
Thinking he will tell you an EH-22 in at 4 or maybe even 6 degrees advanced. This will help build some cylinder pressure.

 

Great post.... I've been trying to decide about a swap into my DeSoto and was wondering about a lo-po 440 out of a RV if it would produce decent power (not being a mopar guy usually). Question answered!