Technical Got My T finally running but I have a ?

I think the top hole that you're referring to is for the hood hinge shaft-

...otherwise it sounds like you understand the function.

 

Could i mount this to the radiator?

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/45-D...yx9oIm9ypCQdJhaBDE_PIsSbaQfhxnYUaApYNEALw_wcB

 

You will probably be best to take your radiator to a talented radiator shop and have them solder a neck on the back side, and then they can solder a plug into the current neck on top. Since your radiator is all polished it would show like a sore thumb if a crappy job was done.

I also think the bung sticking out over your current hose is a mounting boss. Probably for a single rod that would run back to the firewall. Not really gonna work with a SBC and tunnel ram in between them though

 

Cool. Thank you for the information.
Gonna try to find a good radiator spot.

 

I bet even with a proper pressurized neck you shouldn't put too high of a pound cap on it. That radiator is probably not made to hold a lot of pounds. Maybe four to seven max.

 

You don't get it. That small tube you see inside the rad is the vent that runs along the backside of the rad and overflows to the ground. Therefore there isn't any rad cap that will work for a puke tank. You have a rad made for an antique T , not a hot rod. That tube running out of the top tank is made for a stay rod between the rad and the firewall.

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I understand . Thanks

I had another question..
I look under the T and it looks like the radiator for the transmission isn't plugged in. Below are pictures . I felt the wire and it feels like it goes into the center of the radiator.
I'm pretty sure this is suppose to be connected somewhere. Don't see anywhere it could be connected.
Let me know guys thanks.

 

Use a good light and a mirror to see where the wire goes ...was the electric cooling fan working when you overheated ?

 

To be honest. I didn't check it. Ill take a mirror today to it. Hopefully there is a connection for it somewhere under the T.

If I had to wire a new connection which wire would you guys reccomend to tap into so that i can power the fan.

Thanks

 

If he has a modern neck soldered to the back of the tank it will have an overflow bib on it. The radiator shop can close off that old style overflow tube.

 

Back to what I said about your radiator. Since you have a non pressurized unit, I would suggest that you run a 180 degree thermostat and keep the fluid level below the top of the vent tube that you can see under the rad cap. Due to the law of physics, with this setup it will boil over when you hit 212 degrees. As to you transmission cooler, does it even have a fan? That wire could be for anything. The builder could have wired it through a relay or not. We have no way of knowing what you really have. I suggest that you bone up on books on automotive mechanics and learn what you are dealing with.

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The fan should be powered from a 40 amp relay , the relay needs 10ga. Wire direct from the bat, starter or alternator making sure the line is fused ....How can you be so unaware as to not know whether or not the fan was running !??

 

I didnt know if it was running or not because it is located underneath the car on the passenger side.

 

Instead of spending money on a tank, just use a whiskey bottle or a large drink can and a hose.

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Hey guys. I just want to let you know the wire is to the fan of the transmission radiator. I'm looking now to see if there is a relay or plug anywhere for it now.

Just wanted to give an update

 

A problem i see under the car is the park brake working are close if not touching the wiring. As for the electric fan, it's mounting seams to be blocking a lot of necessary air flow. JW

 

Hey everyone. So there is no relay or any type of connection for the fan.

Underneath the T next to the wire their is the horn wires and also a wire that looks like it is a sensor from the transmission connecting to the stater of the T.

I know i can use the horns ground wire for the ground part of the fan but could i tap directly into the stater wire for the positive part of the fan ? Or do i need a relay to do this?
Thanks for the help everyone

 

What's the amp load of the fan ? That determines which way you wire it , do you understand amp loads and how to control a relay ??? Wire sizing ?, thermostatic switches ?

 

It needs its own ground wire, not join onto another. Some of those fans draw 30+amps. JW

 

Leave the nice looking cap you have...and the rest of what I say will clutter things up....but inline on the upper hose you can install a "modern" style cap/fill set up that will have provisions for the overflow tube.

Do a search for "remote fill", etc..

If you get creative, it may even look decent...

 

I like your T - - 2 things I don't think has been mention: make sure the correct # pressure radiator cap is used - and since you're running a tunnel ram - the timing is very important.

 

Is that the correct pressure cap to stop the T radiator splitting or to stop aeration? JW

 

Timing is no more or less important when running a tunnel ram than it is running any other form of induction , blown , injected , carbureted, whatever ....

 

Hey everyone. I had a question. I found this product online and i think it would work out for me.
I just wanted to know if you guys reccomend mounting it on the motor or on the radiator. Ive seen some pictures with it mounted to the engine component.

Thanks every one

https://www.chasebays.com/products/chase-bays-raised-inline-filler-neck?variant=1598185439241

 

I repeat. You have a non-pressurized radiator. You have to change it by getting a rad shop to plug off the vent first. Does no one understand the concept? If you do that, you might as well at the same time plug off the MOTOMETER and get a conventional filler neck attached to the back of the top tank with a 90 degree elbow. Then and only then can you run an overflow tank.

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Ok. So i should of fully expressed my thought.
So the first thing i will do to my radiator is cover the top where i have the old school ornament or MOTOMETER like goldenmountain just said. So im gonna go have that sealed air tight. And then have the hole where the current hose is puking the coolant and i will cover that hole as well and make it air tight. So no air gets into it.
So now i have all the holes covered except the hole for the radiator hose. So the hole from the radiator is the one from the engine to the radiator hole. Thats the only hole left.
My question is.
AFTER getting those holes sealed so no air gets into it.
Can i purchase this product?
If i can purchase this product would it be better for me to attach it to the motor or should i attach it to the radiator.
My thought is. I can attach it to the engine and it would work normally even though the radiator is a inch or so higher then the engine. It would work because the radiator is only filled to the hose and it isnt filled to the top of the radiator. When the motor gets hot the coolant will beginning to expand which will make it hit the top part of the new filler neck get filled first because the coolant is looking for a place to escape. And the only hole left is the one on the new filler neck so it will pop the top and the coolant would make its way into the over flow tank.

Just want to verify that this would work.

Thanks

 

Take off the radiator and take it into the rad shop. What part of NO don't you understand?

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Take it easy goldmountain, calm down. His plan will work too, it's just not your plan.
Mario, that filler you show is not the style you need, but it is the right idea. I think you would be better off with one that has a hose connection on each side instead of threads on the engine side that would have to be adapted to your engine. The filler and cap need to be at or close to the highest point of the system.
As long as you're having a radiator shop solder the original filler and vent closed, why not have them solder a new filler on the top tank at the same time, like gold mountain suggests?

 

Thanks for the information.
I understand it .
Im going to get all the holes sealed by the radiator shop. Then after im gonna have them weld this to the radiator. https://www.chasebays.com/products/chase-bays-raised-inline-filler-neck?variant=1598185832457
This is attached to the radiator And then the hose is attached on the other end after that then the hose attaches to the motor. I feel this way i would get a cleaner look. They sale the raised inline filler neck weld on style so it can be easily welded on by a shop.
I understand i can have them attach a separate neck to the radiator but i feel like making more holes to a small radiator is going mess the look up. Plus i couldn't find any brass filler necks that go with the radiator.

Please if you have a better filler neck i should use. Please post a picture so i can get an idea.

Thanks everyone