I always used that sealant that came in the yellow tube. I can't remember the name of the product right now, but I have been using it since the 50s for emergencies like a gas tank, or temporary radiator repair. It contained an MEC, solvent, which is not good for bare skin, but it dried quickly, and could actually stop a leak just by working a glob of it into the crack in the gas tank, or even a puncture. Bob
I call it baling wire, but it's sold as rebar tie wire, all the hardware stores and building supply places have it. I go through a roll probably every 5 years, it's handy around the shop. The Hudson is not running as well as it ought to...fuel starvation was plaguing me on the way home last night, not sure what's going on. Turns out it's kind of hard to find that Twin H exhaust manifold, it's not the same as the 2bbl. I don't have a line on one yet. I might attempt to repair it, or see if I can get a 2bbl setup to work--I have access to one of those, but the carb has been sitting for probably 50 years, and I'd need to do some exhaust pipe mods, etc. to make it work. My car originally came with a 2bbl, but someone swapped in the 54 engine with the two carbs. Getting gaskets and stuff in less than a week is going to be interesting.
I hope you have better luck at welding old cast manifolds than I do. I have had good success welding and brazing North American cast manifolds. I found that what made the difference for me, was thoroughly cleaning the manifold ( what I did, was sand blast it, then grind the groove in the face where I was going to weld, and then preheating it to 400). Don't forget to use the wife's oven to slowly cool it. I have used the barbeque to do the heating and cooling, and it worked great. My attempts with UK cast manifolds, is another story. In my case, I found I had an easier time welding the cast with the machinable cast rod, even though it was more expensive. I have also successfully brazed cast manifolds, which is a much easier proposition. Good luck with what you decide. I hope you get the problem sorted out in plenty of time. Bob
Baling wire is HAMB friendly now days it's listed as mechanics wire. If you try to braze an exhaust manifold ask yourself just how hot does it get? I've seen them get red hot how strong is brass it that temperature/.
If all else fails, I have some clean, galvanized fence wire, diameter measures out between 12 GA and 12 GA.
Several strands of 16 gauge baling wire can be mighty strong, you know. I'm still looking at a bunch of possible solutions. It's a good challenge.
I'm thinking a couple of leaf spring U bolts where the wire is now. That, or that Hemi you're not using.
Keep the dual carbs Squirrel. And speaking of wire if you ever get to McLean Texas stop at the barbed wire museum.
It was done all the time in the late 50s when guys wanted to have split manifolds on a 6 banger. My buddie's brother brazed the exhaust on a GMC 6 banger, and I knew the truck well over a period of 5 years, and there was never a problem. This included brazing the plate on one side and making the exhaust extension on the other. I am not saying it is the right way, I am saying that I saw it done successfully. Bob
I'm surprised that you haven't already 3D printed one yet! I've got some NOS baling wire that has a Ford part number on it..... For the Chevy it is re bar tie wire For the import it is Tai wire and the German import, it is color coded
2 coat hangers is part of my kit,one actually has a extra T shirt on it. Over the years,temp fix's have screwed up a few shirts.
Sorry I caused so much pain. I didn't grow up on a farm and I cut school the day they cover baling wire.
Finally saw your mysterious Hudson on your web page, Had never saw the whole car, even after asking so I backed off, thinking it might have off topic wheels or something Neat ole car tho, Bet the guy on here piecing his together in patches would like to have one as solid as yours looks.
Chit, no one uses wire to bale hay anymore...least the last 30 years around here. It's now affectionately called mechanics wire. Funny how we evolve...
OK now, as someone suggested, headers, to go with the dual turbos I suggested for the Power Tour. But seriously, you can most likely repair the manifold by getting an overland trucking company involved for welding. That's what I'd do first. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
greener200 . I have used baling wire as filler rod and a oxygen / acetylene when welding sheet metal together . Then there was this time a cow took out a pipe gate . Welded the hinges back on the pipe post with baling wire and a torch . Its still attached.
On a weekend repair 40 years ago, while working on an exhaust system, I ran out of welding rod. I removed the paint from a from a coat hanger, and welded the new system together with the hanger wire. Not only did it weld as easily as normal wire, but the job lasted for the life of the exhaust system. Bob
We always carry #8 fencing wire and dog collars in NZ, but every time I visit Ahotrod.nz he tries to sneak a sack of baling twine into my truck, in case I need to tie something up on my way home. If you pre heat cast iron it can be mig welded ..carefully , with short runs side to side. Takes a bit of practice. AND common bar of soap will seal a leaking gas tank with a practically permanent repair, just let the gas begin to melt the soap and then work it into the hole(s) , mould it /smooth it out and let it dry ...doesn't take long.
Jim, You have to recognise the subtile difference between haywire, and coat hanger wire. Haywire is for a temporary repair, coat hangers are for permanent repairs. I was told a long time ago, that any temporary repair that is not redone in two weeks, is re-classified as permanent. Bob
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