I have some damage on my '56 Chevy (from before I owned it) that I've uncovered. Would like to take it to a frame alignment shop for some correction & peace of mind before I get going on my projects. Looking for recommendations for shops in the Seattle area that people have experience and a good reputation for old cars. Thank you in advance, Gotta56forme
If you can find a good frame shop it shouldn't matter the vehicle. I've straightened the frame on a 28 4 door sedan to a brand new pick up and everything in between and a frame is a frame. The only difference is ones pride in their work. So again find a good frame shop and ask around about their reputation then go talk to them.
Talk to some front end alignment guys if you can. They will know the good and the bad body and frame shops, this I know.
Call Wicked Fabrication in Auburn, ask Craig if he has someplace he can recommend. Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Updates - based on the suggestions so as no one has to retrace my steps... Clarks - friendly, helpful, but they would refer me to their associated body shop which they admitted won't have specs for my '56 Chevy... Hinted I may be better served someplace else. Wicked Fab - friendly, helpful. The place in Tacoma they were using told them two years ago they were done doing old cars. Wicked hasn't had to send a frame out for work since then.
It's unbelievable what an experienced guy can fix. I used to do rebuilders and found a shop that had an old guy running the frame rack. I took them over there stripped out and ready to save time and money. They would come back with gaps set and everything ready for body work and paint. If you straighten it now it will save a lot of fitment and alinement problems. I would ask the guys who do rebuilders for who they use. Experience is Key!
Burien Frame- it's been years but the owner Mike has a BB '57 Chev Sedan Delivery he's had since high school. It's been years, so he may have retired by now..their number is 206-243-9600
Exactly !! Do it now and do it right. I've had cars built on bent frames and almost impossible to fix frame without hurting and warping new panels. Here's a pic of a couple tri fives I did a couple yrs ago, the furthest one was built on a bad frame, I had a terrible time making things fit without hurting panels but I got her done.
That shop was one of my first calls because I too remembered that '57 sedan delivery rolling billboard. He sold the business a few months ago and they don't do frame alignments anymore. Spoke to the prior owner's brother. He recommended a nearby collision repair shop who I also called, but they have at least a one month wait. I have a good lead on a shop in Enumclaw that I'm considering, but still open to closer/other suggestions.
Tru Line Frame and Alignment. Bought a bent frame truck, inadvertently, and those guys did me, and the truck, right. Old building, same spot, for 50 some years. They work on everything.
Shouldn't be too hard to find the frame dimensions for that, looks like they are in the assembly manual, which is a darned handy thing to have. I'm gonna have to add this to my list of services offered.
Yup, I've got the dimensions in one of my manuals. A couple shops have told me they don't have the dimensions, and act like they are probably not available... which doesn't inspire confidence...
Well, here's the deal. Typically, when a body shop sees a customer with an old car, they usually look at it like this; "OMG, this guy is gonna be a huge nuisance, and wants it done for nothing". Nine times out of ten, they are correct. They are in business to make a profit, and the hands usually get paid a percentage of the labor charged. What that means is the more work they get done in a certain amount of time, the more they make. If you look at an estimate from a body shop, it will have x amount of hours to repair this, x amount of hours to replace that, and so on. The bottom line to a body shop, and the bodyman, is to turn those jobs over as fast as possible, and as such, a good bodyman will get paid for turning over far more than 40 hours of labor in a 40 hour work week. At most of the shops I worked at, you had better turn 60 hours every week if you expected to keep your job very long, and 80 to 100 hours was more to everyone's satisfaction. Keeping this in mind, and the fact that labor rates are around $60.00/hr there in Seattle, you are probably going to have to pay for 2-3 hours minimum to get it setup and measured, with repairs added on top of that. Most places also charge more for frame work, so bear that in mind also, and be aware that if it has rust damage, most places will not touch it.
Interesting, a few places I called I did get a vibe they weren't all that interested as soon as I mentioned that the car is a '56.
They have a fancy new add but do state that they work on older rigs. https://trulineseattle.com/ Plus they have been in the same building since 1962.
Burien Frame and Wheel Alignment. 146th and Ambaum. The business was started by a guy that ran a sprint car and they still do hot rods and modified cars.
Mine was a bent frame '66 Dodge Sweptline truck. Drove down the road, nearly sideways ... they did a great job, for me, in 2016. Guess, I lucked out finding them, then. Their lot had some HAMB friendly cars parked in it. Mid 50's Oldsmobile, and a late 40's International big truck. Figured I'd drop their name in this thread. They didn't charge me much. About 3 tires worth.
Called them - late August wait, and $$$. You may have missed my post above. The owner sold a few months ago and they no longer do frame alignments. And a thank you to those who have PM'ed me with suggestions. I have been following up on them and waiting for some callbacks. Gotta56forme/Scott
Grab yourself a tape measure, 4 jackstands and some material for shims. Set the car up on the jackstands, and level the main rails front to rear. It doesn't need to perfectly level side to side, but do keep it within reason. Take your tape measure and measure in an "X" from identical points on the frame, starting under the passenger compartment, and then from the firewall area to the front crossmember, then extend out to the frame horns. Do the same toward the rear. If the frame is square according to your measurements, you should be in good shape. If your shop floor is level, you can measure from points on the frame down to your floor for height. Don't be too surprised if the frame horns are bent in front of the front crossmember, these can easily be cut off and reinstalled if that is the only area that is bent.
Only downside to doing the above is in most cases putting it on Jack stands will take and hide any twist in the frame. Also it totally pi$$ me off when I see some show on t.v. cut or torch frame horns, or other sections of frame to "repair" a twisted horn or sag in a rail. You DONT fix twists, sags, highs or low spots by cutting the frame !! If this is how you fix a frame you are a jack leg!! If you can't fix it right then leave it alone and let an adult do it for you!! Sorry but thru the years I've seen so much of these cobbled together messes it ain't funny. Some really nice cars that either drive like crap, won't align, or just plain trash underneath. Find a frame shop, do it right and 10 yrs from now it will be worth more than less because of some cobble job done earlier...
If the main rails are level in relation to each other, any twist in the frame will be quite obvious, as will diamond, sag, mash and sway.
Tru Line 312 Boren Ave p. 2063253340. They fixed big problems on my pickup front end frame. Did great work.
Your post reminded me to maybe share the following... So far I know the front frame horns aren't square, and the right rear leaf spring hangar (closest to bumper) is bent - easy to see. After studying the front end & my own crude measurements/tests, I believe the driver side frame rail may be as much as 3/8" higher than the passenger side frame rail. These are enough reasons to not investigate it more on my own and take it to a frame guy. I toyed with the idea of additional measurements, plumb-bob'ed, etc onto the floor, but since I already figure it needs the attention of a professional, not sure that is time well spent.
Very good decision, just keep calling shops till you find one. I've seen older rigs in all of these. Fix Autobody repair on Corson in Seattle Exhibition automotive in Kent Big E Autorebuild in Burien Good luck Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Did my 48 with a plumb bob, tape measure and a good level after I fabricated a new sub frame after I removed a Chevy clip that someone hashed it in. Set it up level on jack stands and started measuring from body mount, front to back left to right and tweaked everything to plus or minus a 1/16. Set the body back on and every hole, about 14 of them lined up level and straight. It can be done.
For anyone reading this thread in the future... after a couple week wait, dropped my car off yesterday at a frame straightener. He runs a word-of-mouth business from his home shop, chooses who he will do work for, and has been doing it for many, many years. Did a '55 not too long ago. He agreed with much of what I saw out of true on my car, and found a few more things I hadn't noticed, or knew to look for, after a visual inspection. Thanks to all who provided information and suggestions, Gotta56forme/Scott
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