good day all . just got a 62 c10 to donate its rusted life so my 41 coupe can live again .mtr was stuck ,as id sat since 99 . went to put a socket on the damper bolt . not one there! is this broke , or built that way ? cant tell and to dumb to read . also any good info on the 216 / 235 swap . any words of wisdom from the been there , done that crowd . should I use the Muncie 3 spd . from the 62 . or the stock box ,and keep the torque tube? looking for the easy way . so I guess the path of least resistence is the torque tube ! seems I recall hearing the trans in these cars wouldn't take much abuse ? not sure the 3 spd in the 62 is much ,if any better ? thnx for any input , and wheres that balancer bolt ????
definitely it was a press fit. No bolt. No bolt hole. The water pump, and motor mounts, are the main concern with the swap as far as fitting it in the car. But yeah, the old driveline not only is kind of weak, but it's probably sporting 4.something rear gears, and Huck brakes....you might want to look into updating the rear end, something from a 55-57 Chevy car is a good candidate, or if you don't mind using "late model" parts, 70s Novas etc are decent donors.
You can bolt the later 235 to your torque tube by using a early torque tube Truck trans from a AD truck. Its pretty much a early version of the 318 muncie trans you now have. you need to soak the cylinders with something like MM or diesel and trans fluid. pull the cover from the botton of the flywheel and with a large screwdriver you can pry on the flywheel teeth.
The engine you have looks to be a good choice if you can free it up and get it running. It has a PCV. It will have a flywheel that accepts a key start starter. so you don't need a stomp pedal. It also most likely has the larger 11 inch clutch. You need a 55 thru 59 truck or car bell to be able to use your stock mechanical clutch linkage. the 60 thru 62 trucks use a hyd clutch realease with the fork on the pass side.
I got the mtr free .rocked it from 1st to rever, turning easy now . I use a mixture of diesel and lquer thinner . always had really good luck with it! one cyl. seams to have low compression , but if it starts , might fix itself . my favorite
it runs !! 20 yrs of setting ,and stuck , but don't sound bad . cant run it much more .no gen,, so no wtr pump . gona fab up a mount for a alt. ,then put in a rad. and see what I have . need a oil pressure guage as well before I get to happy !
The only trouble I ever had with the later 235 engines was the Hyd lifters. That engine wasn't designed for hyd lifters. I replaced them with new solid lifters and they ran much better.
Yes is it is a press fit. The crank can be drilled and tapped for a Big Block Chevy balancer bolt. (1/2" 20 if I remember correctly) My 261
Do not use the stock 41 Chevy transmission, trust me! I am running a 58 Corvette three speed and a 57-64 Chevrolet rear in my 53. I would stay away from the 10 bolt Chevy rear for two reasons- (1)The axle is wear surface for the bearing. My father was a Chevrolet dealership mechanic he talks about changing axles all the time in those rears when the were almost new. (2) If you want to change gear ratios you have to set up the rear every time. With a 55-64 Chevy or 9" Ford you can set up a couple of third members and swap them out. The 55-57 rear is not the strongest rear out there but is strong enough to be behind a 235. I know a few drag racers who ran 57 Chevies and some 409s they said the never broke a rear. Most I have seen broken have come from dipshitness. Burn outs, smoke shows, ect... There is an adapter to put the early water pump on the latter engine
sounds like the best /easiest way is the stock 235 pump with a 283 pump pulley . I think I have one ,if I can find it .just ordered a chrome 1 wire alt. from not freebay . really pretty pix . I have a 72 nova w/250 pwr glide .should have tall gears? is the width close enough ? will the muncie bolt to my 41 bell housing , or should I use the whole 62 setup ? would be nice to get 5 lugs !
I used 1968-1972 Nova 8.6" 10 bolt under my 48. It was 60" wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface. I had 3.08 gears. No rocket by any means, but ran great til the 235 puked. if the Nova is a parts car, I would use rear.
will the 62 bell fit the mount locations on the 41 good , or will I have to make something work ? really looking NOT to fb anymore than I have to ! I can change course easy till im commited . the frnt mount on the 235 will work by just drilling a couple holes , right ?
No the 62 truck bell has two blots at angle. and the clutch fork is on the wrong side. A 48 thru 53 truck bell might bolt up to your mounts? I will post some pictures later today that should clarify.
Ok heres pictures. your 62 bell will have rear mounts like the 283 truck bell in the first picture and the clutch fork is on the passenger side. The second bell pictures is from a AD 48 thru 53 truck. notice a stock 53 & older torque tube trans or a open drive Muncie 318 will fit on it. The third picture is showing the side mounts on the AD bellhousing . It might bolt in on your car? The fourth picture is a short tail 318 Muncie trans. The last three Pictures are of a 47 thru 54 AD truck torque tube trans. I think you could use one of those transmissions and a AD truck bell to install your 235. That torque tube trans isn't any weaker than a 318 Muncie. It was used in trucks many that had 261 engines. I once owned a 53 GMC with that type of torque tube trans. and it had a 270 engine. hope this helps?
thnx , im leaning more towards just bolting the mtr to stock bell /back . not going racing ,and real life wont be drove 5k a yr.. can I use the truck flywheel and bigger clutch or will the stock 41 clutch fork not mesh right .will the 62 starter bolt on the 41 bell ? broke my wtr. pump . know how to do it now .after I buy a new one . tried beating it while on the mtr. . not smart for many reasons after I broke it ,then thought about it . could have broke the block , but I think/hope its ok . wtr pump is not ok !!
I would assemble whatever flywheel and bell I preferred to us before I installed the engine and bolt on the starter to see if it works. The clutch fork should work ok.
I'm putting a 58 235 in my 40 Chevy Sedan, running the 216 bell housing and flywheel. It is mated up to a T- 5 transmission from an S-10. Out back is a Ford 8" out of a mustang. I built motor mounts on the side location. I also used the bell housing mounts, but incorprated the front timing plate mount's to work at the bellhousing side location. Not a big deal doing it with the frame out of the car. If you are using the stock front crossmember you can drill the front timing plate to use the angled motor mounts up front. There are a few ways to go on this swap. Make no mistake its not a bolt in. I'm down in Redding if you pass through, you could see what I've got going.
thnx for the offer , neighbor .looks like you have quite the build going . would luv to see it when im in the neighborhood .try to avoid redding in aug!!! UNLESS I HEAR ANY DFFERENT , IM PLANNING ON using the stock 62 flywheel and clutch with the 41 bell . should keep it as simple as poss. im just not sure if the 62 starter will bolt to the bell . really don't want the foot switch . have a new wtr pump . will have the hub pressed to the right spot this time , and CHROME alt., waiting on CHROME PULLEY .IVE BEEN RUNNING THE 235 WITH NO FAN AND A PRETTY SMALL RAD. .IDLES FOREVER FINE , BUT WHEN I REV IT UP BOILS WATER OUT .NO WATER IN THE OIL ,AND PLUGS LOOK GOOD SO IM ASSUMING THE MTR IS GOOD .STILL WANT TO INSTALL OIL PRESS GAUGE.but im pretty sure its good
as far as I know, the starters will bolt to the bellhousing like it's supposed to. Just have to use a 12v starter if the flywheel is off a 12v engine (12v means 1955 or newer, pretty much)
that's what I thought . have the starter on the 62 . plan on removing the starters today and making sure . just hooked up oil gauge, 35+ psi at idle . I think that's near perfect . should have the valves ground , but we don't have a good machine shop local . so im thinking about lapping them in and replacing the seals. might talk my self out of that though! everyone says hard seats and guides , but no more than it will be drven not sure if I should spend the money . rather have dual carbs and twice pipes !! the days of $50.oo valve jobs are gone I guess!!
I wouldn't bother unless you either know there's something wrong with it, or if you plan to put a whole bunch of miles on it. And then, it would be worth while to check out the rest of the engine, replace rings, etc. Only the 261 had full flow filter. The 235 had nothing or a bypass filter
well I got the 216 about ready for removal . I guess it has to come out with the bell housing attached . I think it might be best to leave the trans in place . still waiting on the wtr pump pully . 2.75 deep . should clear the rad., I hope. stock rad. looks tiny . hope it will keep the 235 cool ,
Flush the radiator and 235 block. I would suggest knocking out the freeze plugs and really washing the block out. A friend give me a 235, I removed the water pump and knocked out the freeze plugs and used a garden hose to flush the block. I put the hose in the water pump and freeze plug holes to remove all the scale and sludge from the coolant passages. It took a good 45 minutes to an hour before the water ran clear.
I agree with flushing the radiator and replacing the freeze plugs. I would also pull the oil pan to make certain it and the oil pump screen are clean.
You have to rotate the fly wheel to get to all the bolts. Once off, you'll find the other bolts holding the BH to the block. Does your's have the little ball thing on the flywheel for timing? If so, take note of it when you set up the other engine.
well the 235 is running good . 30 psi oil pressure . seams to be running normal temp. , though no gauge .adjusted the valves ,new points new chrome alt and wtr. pump pulley. pressed the wtr pump hub back 1/2 inch . with the 2.5 pully the fan clears the balancer about 1/4 so hopefully it will clear the rad. .the mtr idles perfect , but pops thru the carb when I increase rpms . like I said new points, valves adj., timing set .carb is orig. twenty plus years old . I just half ass cleaned it . could the carb make it pop . or is it more likely the old cap and rotor ? any ideas .I want it running right before I put it in the 41 !!
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