Projects NOT THE TYPICAL '30 ROADSTER BUILD

Thank you

 

I thought I was the only one to use a wooden buck to form metal.
Looks very nice.

 

Some old Europeans taught me the wooden buck method when I was young.
I used it to make fuel tanks for my 'B-Team racers (control line model airplanes)
Metal shop instructor taught copper shaping using wooden bucks.
WOOD IS GOOD!

 

I've always had diferant shapes around the shop most of the guys that worked for me would not even give them a try.
I once made the bottom 6" of a 55 chevys doors inside and out without a brake. All compleatly hand formed.

 

Almost finish welding the inner panel.
A little but more welding, some more dolly and hammer and should be time to move to the other side. Then I will be repairing both rear corners and all metal work will be done.

 

Took some time off to clean the garage and move the roadster to the other side, so I have access to the passenger side.
Crazy how much dust is created when cutting and grinding. Today was cleaning day.


Love to to see it like this. Hard to imagine how far along it has come. I sure was over my head on this one but little by little I am getting her done.


Onto the passenger side. This side is much worst than the driver side, but I now have a clear plan of attack.

I had a couple of hours to spare, so I shifted gears and worked in something different....still for the roadster!
I plan to use a battery kill switch, mostly to keep the battery off while park for long periods of time.
Not sure yer if the battery will be in the trunk or underneath the seat; most likely it will be underneath the seat for safety, but I will definitely need a kill switch.

The problem with the kill switch is that ugly plastic red key. It screams made in china and not vintage at all.
I looked for other options but haven't found anything I like. I did found this key which looks really nice., much better than the red one...but damn expensive, too expensive for me!

$115 just for that key :-(



I figure I can make one and I already had all the materials, 3/8" and 1/8" metal rod for the shaft and some 1/8" plate for the handle.


Copy a simple design


Few holes later and some trimming, handle takes shape.

For the shaft, I made two opposite 1/8" holes. One to lock in the handle and one for the plunger. I welded them shut and grind them.

The metal key is a bit longer than the red one, since I plan to hide the body of the switch and not have it sick out.

The plan is to round off the edges, sand it to a fine grid /polish finish it and clear coat it.


Fits my needs and sure didn't paid $115 for it.

 

Moving onto the other side...
Modifying the passenger side was a lot quicker with the template I made of the other side. The wooden buck came in handy too, as I just had to flip it.


The metal on this side was in a lot worst shape than the other side and it took longer to repair.
You can see how pitted the metal was.
I cut little tabs, with the cleco hole in them, to hold the panel in place. It comes in handy when spot welding it in place.


Panel in place. I had two holes with very thin metal that I had to fix. A crack was running upwards on the wheel well from the larger one on the left side.



With a copper backer I started filling and building up the hole. Very slow and with low heat as the metal is very thin here.


Slowly working both areas, building up, sanding shaping. Looks worst before it looks better.


Fully spot welded in place. 1st round of spot welds.

 

Nice work on the wheel wells. They’ll look factory when you are done.

I get the being in over your head when you started. Seems to be my MO with any kind of project I start. Like the old riddle: How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time. Just keep on chewing. When you’re finished you will have a fine hot rod as well as additional skills.

 

Very nice and great coverage.

 

Thank you. One bite at time it is, for sure.
Taking my time and slowing down or walking away when frustration starts to build up.

 

Thank you. Learning a lot as I make progress.

 

Passenger side is almost done. A little more dolly and hammer, a few more pin holes to weld and I can call it done. For now it is done, I will do the rest of the work when the body comes off the frame and I have better access to it.


The last pasr of the rear panel is not welded yet, as I am waiting to patch in the rear corner first.


Looking good! I am happy and impressed. I am learning how to weld and doing it at the same time. I can see myself getting better little by little.
I can hear the bacon sizzle now


Here comes the next mountain to cross. The rear corners.
Removed the rear cross member for better access.
The metal is thin and pitted.
Passenger side worst than driver's side


Driver's side look better but still will need to trim back the thin metal and replace with healthier metal.


Patch panels from Mac's are warm...but no cigar.
The bead moldings are different, rounder at the crowns and the edge detail is different.
I will need to do some cutting and dicing to get them right.


Looking down you can see the crown of the molding is much different.
I assume the piece is larger than the original since it can seat over it.

Challenge accepted. Let's get it to it...

 

It looks great, I've always enjoyed my automotive education especially when I could drive the tuition.

 

Great job! I like it

 

Spent some time tracing my cutting lines to trim as little as possible but still remove as much as the bad metal as possible.
The metal is really thin in this area, so welding this one will be difficult for me.
This is probably one the hardest pieces I have fitted with all the lines, curves, details and making it all match....I am taking it slow...


Not too bad! It has room to go up and clear the crossmember underneath.


The bottom of the patch panel is longer, so thinking a pie cut might help me.


The side detail belt molding is not long enough on the patch panel....so a another cut pie to stretch it...


This one I can pie cut it again and reduce it so the bottom can be aligned. The cross member needs room to fit underneath.
Will also need to slice top to bottom to light the molding line correctly.

These corners are going to be a bitch! How can you fit a dolly and hammer??? Everything seems to be in the way...can't event fit my hand back there.

 

Looks like you have a plan. When I eventually start my A I’m going to have the same problem with the corners so I’m watching closely!

 

This corner has been a bitch to weld in. I am not looking forward to the other side.
The metal is so thin that it blows out very easily. No room in the back to put a dolly back there....this is where the experience that I don't have would come in handy.

Very slow but making progress....still lot of work ahead before it is done.

 

Looks like you conquered that corner though. Everyone seems to have this same experience with these rear corners and the patches available. Good job!

 

Thank you.
Those patch corners are really bad copies. At first glance, they look ok but once you get to start fitting them then you can see how off they are.
By far, since I started this project this has been the hardest thing I've done.

 

I decided to go a different route with the driver side corner.
Because it wasn't in as bad condition as the passenger side, I opted to patch it rather than replace it.
I still have some more building up to do and some pin holes to fill but definitely a lot easier than cutting, replacing and trying to blend bead details that don't match.




Slowly and full of patience....coming along


The inside corner corner came out really nice. Everything is aligning the way it should....light at the end of the tunnel!

 

The problem with the kill switch is that ugly plastic red key. It screams made in china and not vintage at all.
I looked for other options but haven't found anything I like. I did found this key which looks really nice., much better than the red one...but damn expensive, too expensive for me!

$115 just for that key :-(

View attachment 4353038

I figure I can make one and I already had all the materials, 3/8" and 1/8" metal rod for the shaft and some 1/8" plate for the handle.

You've done a nice job on the metal key. Here's a thought...was it plastic because of insulation feature? Guess we'll find out when you turn it on.

 

It appears you are using flux core wire for your welding. Man, things would go a whole lot smoother if you were using MIG........

 

I thought of that too...of course when the key was done
Looking at the original key, the plunger looks made out of brass or similar material and it appear to have an o-ring on the shaft.

I plan on doing a quick connection to battery and start testing different ideas. I am sure after zaps, I will figure something out. I will keep all posted.

 

Yes, I am using Flux core.
Flux core was all I could afford when I started doing this...I didn't want to invest too much on this until I knew I was going to at least like it....and learn some too. I kind of stay with it out of habit.

Honestly, I thought I wasn't going to learn it and simply all was going to end up in the trash can.
I bought a couple cabs, a '36 and a '37 and the goal was to teach myself to weld and chop a top at the same time.



I ended loving this as a hobby and I am now starting to spend more money...One thing lead to the next and I am now doing this roadster.
I am finally taking the next step and buying my gas tank, in the next couple of weeks, and will go to MIG.
I also have a TIG ready to go but have never used one before, so I am sure that it will take me longer to learn it...I got figure out how to put it together first.

 

Keep at it, friend. We're enjoying watching your progress.

 

I’m with @Peanut 1959. Keep at it. You’re doing fine. The MIG upgrade will help. I haven’t upgraded to TIG yet myself but would like to eventually.

 

I didn’t mean it as a dig, you are doing awesome work. BUT- when you get a bottle of C25 and make that first weld, you will be saying I shoulda done this long ago. The $$ spent getting a MIG setup vanishes when you see that you can weld thinner material, don’t burn holes through stuff, and not if all, no slag to clean up.

Again, you are doing awesome! Just trying to help.

 

Thank you. Humble to the experience and the journey

 

Don't sweat it. I know you meant it as good advise and well taken too.
Looking forward to MIG. I heard welds do come out cleaner and the no slag is a big plus, among other advantages.

 

It is that time again where I look back.
Since my last update, I've spend an additional $261.99, which is not bad but some consider it wasted money since the first set of inner fender panels from Mac's were a waste of money.
Hours, is where I spend the most, 53 more labor hours added to the tally up. Most of those hours went into the inner fender panels and the rear corners...Rear corners = nightmares!



Didn't get a lot done this weekend. Spent most of the time with the family.
However, I welded back on the inner rear braces to the inner fender panels and removed the temporary braces
First time the body seats fully supported on it's own weight without braces or supports.
The doors and rear deck still fitting really nice, gaps didn't changed.....happy dance!



Need to still repair the stress fracture on this brace but happy to see it without the temporary brace,